I think it's a 3/4 on mine. I'd go ahead take it apart and look at the wear areas to see if they tell a tale about what's been happening there. I think I'm going to end up getting the SE compensator but you can get a solid BDL or Baker drive sprocket if you wanted to.

 

thank tou very much for the info boomerbob. i am gonna prolly tear into the primary tomorrow. i'll let you know what i find out. i looked at the se compensator in the catalogue and its only listed for 07 and up. i wonder if it will fit my 06?

 

Yes if you are very careful with the gasket. Or get a new one first.
Its a big nut and a lot of torque. Get the right primary locking tool, a steel bar type, first. Not real expensive and makes this a easier job.

Was a change to the design of the 07's up. basicly the same though.

Get a service manual.

 

SERVICE BULLETIN
M-1170 May 27, 2005
COMPENSATING SPROCKET TORQUE PROCEDURE
®
Purpose
This Bulletin documents a torque and turn-of-nut procedure
for tightening the engine compensating sprocket. This procedure
improves the clamp load on this assembly and replaces
the present tighten-to-torque procedure.
Motorcycles Affected
All 2003 through 2005 Touring, Softail, and Dyna model
motorcycles including CVO models with Twin-Cam engines.
Production vehicles began using this procedure May, 2005.
Dealer Action
Update all service literature and notify service technicians. To
assure this procedure is used, insert this Service Bulletin
number in the TORQUE VALUES tables in Section 6.1 SPECIFICATIONS
of the Service Manuals covering Touring, Softail
and Dyna models for model years 2003 through 2005.
Instructions
1. See Figure 1. Before installing the clutch, primary chain,
compensating sprocket and shaft extension assembly do
the following:
a. Clean threads on engine sprocket shaft (1) and
internal threads in sprocket nut (2) with LOCTITE
7649 CLEANER/PRIMER, Part No. 98968-99.
NOTE
If a new sprocket nut, with lock-patch, is being installed the
clean/prime of the internal threads is not needed. If the nut is
being reused, clean the internal threads as specified in step
a. above
b. Apply two drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262
(red) to the threads on the engine sprocket shaft.
c. Apply engine oil to the complete underside (3) of
sprocket nut (2). This is the area that will contact the
sprocket cover.
2. Follow the Service Manual procedure for installing the
clutch, primary chain, compensating sprocket and shaft
extension as an assembly.
3. Install sprocket shaft nut and hand tighten. Follow the
Service Manual procedure for installing the clutch hub
mainshaft nut.
4. See Figure 2. Tighten sprocket shaft nut to 75 ft-lbs
(101.7 Nm).
Figure 1. Compensating Sprocket Preassembly
Figure 2. Tightening To 75 ft-lbs (101.7 Nm)
1 2
1. Engine sprocket shaft threads
2. Sprocket shaft nut
3. Underside of nut
3
s0645x.
7857a.
IMPORTANT NOTE
In the interest of preserving customer safety and satisfaction, always check for outstanding recalls whenever any motorcycle is brought into your
dealership for either maintenance or service.
©2005 HARLEY-DAVIDSON® MOTOR COMPANY
ROUTING SERVICE
MANAGER
SALES
MANAGER
PARTS
MANAGER
LEAD
TECHNICIAN
TECHNICIAN
NO.1
TECHNICIAN
NO. 2
TECHNICIAN
NO. 3
TECHNICIAN
NO. 4
RETURN
THIS TO
INITIAL HERE
M-1170 2 of 2

 

Try to google M-1170 and see if you can get a copy of the pdf file. If you can't, PM me your email address and I'll try to email you one.

 

http://costariders.com/index.php?act....0;attach=1413

 

thank all you guys very much for botj your interest and input . i'll try this procedure on the comp nut and let you all know what happens.

 

The change was in 2006. you have to love the comp nut tsb....why not just say..."torque to spec then crank the bitch on there another quarter turn with a BF wrench"

 

i was jacking up the bike today to tear into the primary when i heard a familiar type clunk. as the jack was right under the shocks i thought maybe i'd loosen them and retighten them. man were they on tight . then when i finally loosened them they must have moved a bit because the right side was a beatch to get back on. tried the bike, still had clunk. tore open primary and the sprocket nut seemed tight as hell. the nut must be like 1 3/4 pretty big anyway. i'm gonna look the bike over ONE MORE TIME AND TIGHTEN EVERYTHING I CAN. if the clunk is still there i will definately retourque the comp nut, and maybe change up the shocks?

 

Wow! Finally someone who's had an issue too. Well people, let me tell ya that HD still hasn't cured the issue.

Me? 2010 RK with less than 500 miles on it. Hard braking (rear brake only) with ABS ... Clunck, clunck, clunk... Loud. It's hits so hard I can feel it though the brake pedal. Off to the dealer. It was there for TWO WEEKS and the service tech(s) all said the same thing.. all were baffled. They checked ABS, Brakes, Primary, trans, suspension, frame.. nothing. They call in the factory rep. He rides it around the parking lot and makes it do the noise and all and concluded it was the compensator and the clunck was considered "normal" for the bike (yeah, right!) No safety issues so, no repairs required! When I picked up the bike, my service rep, on the down low, was shaking his head agreeing with me that no, this isn't right but said his hands were tied to pursue it further. I've called HD's home base in Miliwaukee and still no results to date.

The SE Compensator sounds like it might be my way out. But it looks like I'll be doing the install. I just can't believe HD won't just fix the problem and move on. When the dealer is even rolling their eyes, you'd think they'd admit the problem and correct it! Seems making money is more important than keeping customers happy...