Ring Gear replacement tools and tips
#1
Ring Gear replacement tools and tips
Yesterday, I pulled my primary, threw a shim under my compensator nut
and replaced my stock ring and pinion with a Compu-fire 1084 set-up.
In an effort to minimize the disassembly, I left the clutch basket
installed. Here's a couple photos and tips:
To loosen the compensator nut, make a shim from a dollar store white
plastic cutting board. Cut off a strip 1 1/2 wide, then cut the strip
into 2 inch, 1 1/2 inch and 1 inch lengths. Stack the pieces with an
1/2 inch offset to create the "stair-step" needed to lock against the
teeth. Fasten the pieces together with a couple counter-sunk machine
screws so that the nuts are on the shortest side (you need to keep the
longest side flush since it jams up against the chain).
Wrapping the clutch basket in tape and holding a shop vac nozzle
against it keeps out the filings from drilling the rivets and holes.
Install the starter pinion gear but don't bend the lock tab until you
test fit the ring with a couple bolts snugged down to ensure that you
have the correct clearance. I had to add two spacer washers to the
pinion shaft to get the recommended .100" clearance (you can't remove
the pinion shaft assembly to add the spacers with the ring gear in
place).
In order to tighten down the ring gear allen head bolts with the clutch
basket installed, I used an off-set 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and a piece
of a 1/4 inch hex wrench cut long enough to seat firmly in the bolt and
wrench. The offset provides plenty of clearance to swing the wrench 90
degrees.
The entire job took two hours- CWO
and replaced my stock ring and pinion with a Compu-fire 1084 set-up.
In an effort to minimize the disassembly, I left the clutch basket
installed. Here's a couple photos and tips:
To loosen the compensator nut, make a shim from a dollar store white
plastic cutting board. Cut off a strip 1 1/2 wide, then cut the strip
into 2 inch, 1 1/2 inch and 1 inch lengths. Stack the pieces with an
1/2 inch offset to create the "stair-step" needed to lock against the
teeth. Fasten the pieces together with a couple counter-sunk machine
screws so that the nuts are on the shortest side (you need to keep the
longest side flush since it jams up against the chain).
Wrapping the clutch basket in tape and holding a shop vac nozzle
against it keeps out the filings from drilling the rivets and holes.
Install the starter pinion gear but don't bend the lock tab until you
test fit the ring with a couple bolts snugged down to ensure that you
have the correct clearance. I had to add two spacer washers to the
pinion shaft to get the recommended .100" clearance (you can't remove
the pinion shaft assembly to add the spacers with the ring gear in
place).
In order to tighten down the ring gear allen head bolts with the clutch
basket installed, I used an off-set 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and a piece
of a 1/4 inch hex wrench cut long enough to seat firmly in the bolt and
wrench. The offset provides plenty of clearance to swing the wrench 90
degrees.
The entire job took two hours- CWO
#3
Yesterday, I pulled my primary, threw a shim under my compensator nut
and replaced my stock ring and pinion with a Compu-fire 1084 set-up.
In an effort to minimize the disassembly, I left the clutch basket
installed. Here's a couple photos and tips:
To loosen the compensator nut, make a shim from a dollar store white
plastic cutting board. Cut off a strip 1 1/2 wide, then cut the strip
into 2 inch, 1 1/2 inch and 1 inch lengths. Stack the pieces with an
1/2 inch offset to create the "stair-step" needed to lock against the
teeth. Fasten the pieces together with a couple counter-sunk machine
screws so that the nuts are on the shortest side (you need to keep the
longest side flush since it jams up against the chain).
Wrapping the clutch basket in tape and holding a shop vac nozzle
against it keeps out the filings from drilling the rivets and holes.
Install the starter pinion gear but don't bend the lock tab until you
test fit the ring with a couple bolts snugged down to ensure that you
have the correct clearance. I had to add two spacer washers to the
pinion shaft to get the recommended .100" clearance (you can't remove
the pinion shaft assembly to add the spacers with the ring gear in
place).
In order to tighten down the ring gear allen head bolts with the clutch
basket installed, I used an off-set 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and a piece
of a 1/4 inch hex wrench cut long enough to seat firmly in the bolt and
wrench. The offset provides plenty of clearance to swing the wrench 90
degrees.
The entire job took two hours- CWO
and replaced my stock ring and pinion with a Compu-fire 1084 set-up.
In an effort to minimize the disassembly, I left the clutch basket
installed. Here's a couple photos and tips:
To loosen the compensator nut, make a shim from a dollar store white
plastic cutting board. Cut off a strip 1 1/2 wide, then cut the strip
into 2 inch, 1 1/2 inch and 1 inch lengths. Stack the pieces with an
1/2 inch offset to create the "stair-step" needed to lock against the
teeth. Fasten the pieces together with a couple counter-sunk machine
screws so that the nuts are on the shortest side (you need to keep the
longest side flush since it jams up against the chain).
Wrapping the clutch basket in tape and holding a shop vac nozzle
against it keeps out the filings from drilling the rivets and holes.
Install the starter pinion gear but don't bend the lock tab until you
test fit the ring with a couple bolts snugged down to ensure that you
have the correct clearance. I had to add two spacer washers to the
pinion shaft to get the recommended .100" clearance (you can't remove
the pinion shaft assembly to add the spacers with the ring gear in
place).
In order to tighten down the ring gear allen head bolts with the clutch
basket installed, I used an off-set 1/4 inch ratchet wrench and a piece
of a 1/4 inch hex wrench cut long enough to seat firmly in the bolt and
wrench. The offset provides plenty of clearance to swing the wrench 90
degrees.
The entire job took two hours- CWO
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