Clutch adjustment problem
#1
Clutch adjustment problem
A while back I posted that my 95 FXSTS was having issues with the clutch not engaging... It was explained to me how to adjust the clutch via the cable and clutch hub... Fixed the problem temporarily, but I'm having to do it about every 200-400 or so miles. Is this indicative of a failing clutch or clutch plates, or is it possible that vibration is backing out the adjustment screw on the hub?
Any advise is greatly appreciated.
Any advise is greatly appreciated.
#2
clutch adjustment
How many miles are on the bike? Have you taken your friction plates and steel plates out and had a look at them? Remember that the clutch components i.e. friction and steel plates are usable items and need to be replaced every now and again. Is the adjusting screw loose when you go to readjust it? Look at your diaphram spring those get worn out and fatiged also. What are your driving habits? Is the engine stock or modified? Give us some more info..
#3
How many miles are on the bike? Have you taken your friction plates and steel plates out and had a look at them? Remember that the clutch components i.e. friction and steel plates are usable items and need to be replaced every now and again. Is the adjusting screw loose when you go to readjust it? Look at your diaphram spring those get worn out and fatiged also. What are your driving habits? Is the engine stock or modified? Give us some more info..
If it is a situation in which I need to replace the plates and/or diaphragm spring, do you have any recommendations as to replacements?
Sorry I wasn't more forthcoming in my previous post, and Thanks!
#4
Hey otis what method are you using to adjust? How are you doing the set up? The subject of clutch adjustment has probably been beaten like a dead horse on hdforums, 2-4 screws out is way too much. I dont know how you are doing it and im not insulting your intelligence by any means, but i'll go through the way that works best for me.
Loosen the clutch cable adjuster ALL the way.
Loosen lock nut on adjuster screw and back it out a few turns.
Turn adjuster screw clockwise until GENTLY seated. Making sure locknut doesn't interfere with it being seated, thats why you want to back out the locknut a few turns.
Back off adjuster screw (counter clockwise) 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
Holding adjuster screw in place with allen wrench, tighten locknut.
Take slack out of clutch cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch cable shoulder. You should be good to go.
Since the bike isn't modified,and if you need new friction and steels or spring i would suggest harley brand. Just go to the dealer and get them,or if you wanted something other then harley, I would go with Barnett kevlars, steels , and spring. Hope this helps, let me know.
Loosen the clutch cable adjuster ALL the way.
Loosen lock nut on adjuster screw and back it out a few turns.
Turn adjuster screw clockwise until GENTLY seated. Making sure locknut doesn't interfere with it being seated, thats why you want to back out the locknut a few turns.
Back off adjuster screw (counter clockwise) 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
Holding adjuster screw in place with allen wrench, tighten locknut.
Take slack out of clutch cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch cable shoulder. You should be good to go.
Since the bike isn't modified,and if you need new friction and steels or spring i would suggest harley brand. Just go to the dealer and get them,or if you wanted something other then harley, I would go with Barnett kevlars, steels , and spring. Hope this helps, let me know.
#5
Hey otis what method are you using to adjust? How are you doing the set up? The subject of clutch adjustment has probably been beaten like a dead horse on hdforums, 2-4 screws out is way too much. I dont know how you are doing it and im not insulting your intelligence by any means, but i'll go through the way that works best for me.
Loosen the clutch cable adjuster ALL the way.
Loosen lock nut on adjuster screw and back it out a few turns.
Turn adjuster screw clockwise until GENTLY seated. Making sure locknut doesn't interfere with it being seated, thats why you want to back out the locknut a few turns.
Back off adjuster screw (counter clockwise) 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
Holding adjuster screw in place with allen wrench, tighten locknut.
Take slack out of clutch cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch cable shoulder. You should be good to go.
Since the bike isn't modified,and if you need new friction and steels or spring i would suggest harley brand. Just go to the dealer and get them,or if you wanted something other then harley, I would go with Barnett kevlars, steels , and spring. Hope this helps, let me know.
Loosen the clutch cable adjuster ALL the way.
Loosen lock nut on adjuster screw and back it out a few turns.
Turn adjuster screw clockwise until GENTLY seated. Making sure locknut doesn't interfere with it being seated, thats why you want to back out the locknut a few turns.
Back off adjuster screw (counter clockwise) 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
Holding adjuster screw in place with allen wrench, tighten locknut.
Take slack out of clutch cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch cable shoulder. You should be good to go.
Since the bike isn't modified,and if you need new friction and steels or spring i would suggest harley brand. Just go to the dealer and get them,or if you wanted something other then harley, I would go with Barnett kevlars, steels , and spring. Hope this helps, let me know.
In case I'm barking up the wrong tree completely, the symptoms on the actual bike are that over the course of anywhere from 10 to 25 miles(after riding it for a few days or roughly 150 miles) it starts having a very difficult time getting up hills and accelerating. The motor revs up fine and doesn't bog down, but clearly little of the power is making it to the wheel.
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08-13-2014 02:00 PM