Bike: '05 FLHTPI, 7k miles

In due diligence, I finally got around to changing all fluids for the year, and I adjusted the clutch while in there per the manual. Two problems exist now, however, and I need you guys to evaluate my course of action:

One: stripped Torx bolts in the primary cover, 3 of the 5! Stupid Harley--did they really use "Torx Plus" instead of regular Torx, and not tell all of us??? I took them off and on once... seriously... and I didn't use a breaker bar.

Two: clutch now slipping. If I'm doing 60-70mph and give it a good whack in 4th, the RPMs shoot up without a corresponding jump in acceleration, and then it slowly corrects (RPM) to a lower level. If I'm slow-handed, things still stay stuck, but not that well.

Is it possible I've lessened the "grab" on my clutch when engaged by now only being 3/4 of a turn out from bottoming-out on the adjuster screw? I'm thinking I should go to maybe 1-1.5 turns out, and see if it causes any ill effects.

Also, it's my fault for dumping regular 10W40 Mobil1 rather than bike Mobil1 into the primary, but I got it back out of there within 100 miles, and replaced it with the Mobil1 bike-specific oil. Hopefully, that won't be a long-term regret. Last night, I again drained it and used Valvoline ATF Type F, since it specifically said "protects against clutch slippage" on the bottle.


So, does anyone think there's anything better I can do than run ATF for now, get those bolts out, (switch to hex's,) and re-adjust that clutch for a little more 'grab'?

 

First go to a hardware store and get some stainless steelallen head machine screws. They are #20 coarse thread 3/4 long. Then go to the DIY threads here and find the clutch adjustment thread ( there is a link to clutch adjustment made easy). Re adjust your clutch ( I think it's a 1/2 turn) making sure you roll the adjuster back & forth 2-3 times to make sure the ball is seated on the ramp. Be certain to have the cable adjuster slacked out all the way when you do this. Once you have adjusted the clutch in the primary then do the cable and leave about 1/8" slack in the clutch handle.

Then try the atf for a while and see how it is. It is pretty thin though. Your clutch should not be slipping at 7k. I think you have it too loose. Don't put car oil in your primary as it has moly in it.

 

I use an impact driver to loosen stripped torx screws. If you followed the manual and your clutch is slipping, then the adjusting screw is turned in too much. Loosen up your clutch cable all the way. Loosen the lock nut on your clutch and turn out the adjuster screw 4 or 5 turns. Next, slowly turn in the adjuster screw until you feel the slightest amount of tension on the screw. Back out the screw 3/4 of a turn, and while holding the screw tighten the locknut. Adjust the free play in your clutch cable and you should be set.
As far as the tranny fluid, I would use a 50 weight oil. I use Mobil One 15 w 50 snythetic.

 

Thanks guys--I appreciate it. I just have to get those $#&&#!!!-ing torx heads out so I can re-adjust that clutch!!!

I'm gonna try the impact driver idea, then the superglue-on-the-tip idea, and if it fails, it's Dremel time. I'll try the slot cutting idea, and see if a flathead screwdriver can take them out. I really, really don't want to have to reverse tap them...

 

Update:
Electric Drill 3, stripped bolts 0. [sm=badbadbad.gif]

Also, no more clutch slippage!

The Dremel cuts were not precise enough to be able to use a flat head screwdriver to get them out, so I chucked up a 5/16" drill bit, and very slowly started drilling dead-center in the stripped torx bolts. About 30 seconds later for each bolt, I had a nice washer running around the drill bit--the bolt heads snapped off cleanly. I took out the two that weren't stripped, took off the primary cover, and walked out the 3 bolt bodies (without heads) that were sticking out by hand. Easy!

I then re-adjusted the clutch, getting a MUCH better feel this time for what "resistance" is when you're dialing in the adjuster bolt. I put things together, took the bike for a ride, and under WOT, there's no more slipping at all--the bike takes off like it used to. Double bonus!

Last thing, then, is to see how I feel about the ATF that's still in the primary... if I start noticing that the primary is really getting warm or have any other issues, I guess it'll be back to a non-synthetic for the primary.

 

This should be a 'Sticky' for all newbies. Change these stinking torx bolts out for socket head cap screws at first chance, or have the dealer change them out before you take delivery.

Just went though this trying to get to my clutch adjuster.

I tried the T28 'hammer it in' technique. NOPE..

I tried the Dremel tool slot for big screw driver. NOPE..

Ended up drilling the heads off of them too. I used a number one (#1) size drill. 0.228" diameter. I suppose you could use up to a 1/4" to get the job done. I just drilled in far enough to seperate the head from the shank of the screw.

I had to do this on 2 of five screws. My 20 minute job turned into 2-1/2 hours and I now need to go buy some chrome screws and swap out the black ones I had at home. Before they rust!