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Sudden Hard Shifting

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  #31  
Old 08-27-2024, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackie Paper
Interestingly, the logic makes no sense except that the ramp must be less angle then a Harley and reduces throw travel.

He could easly get .03 more by taking it from cable play. Heat doesn't affect it.

It needs the 1/8 to get the same amount as a Harley gets with 1/2 for stroke.

Issue I see is he's got one more fiber in there. I forget the pitch of that thread. Maybe 18 or 20.

If it's 20 threads , then the pitch is 0.050 and 1/8 of that is only 0.006

If 18 threads, it's 0.007.

Think he's got 11 fibers and 9 steels all stacked up. It would not surprise me that from room temperature to running temperature would grow that much.

Once it hits no play, your not going to notice it.

He says all is good however.

Guess I alway was over cautious in popping it in netural to keep from holding in clutch. And my last few year's riding, a day of riding fired up my old joints in my hand so bad, I had no choice but do it.

Don't understand your logic at all. Years ago, I put an indicator on the pressure plate and adjusted the center adjuster at 1/2 3/4 1 Full turn. As long as the cable play was the same the plate lift was the same.. I personally prefer 1/2 on most my bikes because it requires less adjustment.of the cable. I can see where 1/8 requires less adjustment of the cable. The only thing that changes is the position of the ramp arm. I suspect that going smaller off bottomed places the arm closer to 90 degrees when the lever is pulled in all the way making the hold in pressure less.

How does heat hurt things? The plates swell and pressure is released on the throwout bearing..

FWIW I've killed one throw-out bearing in a few hundred thousand miles of different HDs type bikes. The one that died was on my 113 ci evo bobber with 3 inch belt primary after about 50000. Some of the reasons why were that the BDL need to run 10 springs to not slip. Mucho pressure. Another is that the clutch wears and turns go to 0. At that point the throw-out has some real load on it..
 
  #32  
Old 08-27-2024, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brakeless
Pretty sure the only difference is with the shape and angle of the ramp sockets. That being said, I've increased my throw with my stock ramp by installing larger diameter ball bearings. I had a easy pull clutch in before and it definitely didn't work with that clutch setup. The easy pull just replaces lift for effort.
The angle of the ramps is likely 18 degrees and straight. I looked at the patent.. @Ohio HD collected the dimensions and posted info here.. Personally I'd figure the ramps should be regressive. A little more at first but a little less at full pull.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...l#post21650582

 
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  #33  
Old 08-27-2024, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
The angle of the ramps is likely 18 degrees and straight. I looked at the patent.. @Ohio HD collected the dimensions and posted info here.. Personally I'd figure the ramps should be regressive. A little more at first but a little less at full pull.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...l#post21650582
What makes the Muller pull easier is the increased length. Just like some of the adapters like Burly they sell that connect to the end of the ramp and cable. The 18⁰ is what I have now which is what it came with stock. 06 and up came stock with the reduced effort ramp assy which I believe is the same as the 21⁰ version with a slight modification to the ramps. The teardrop tapered socket in Muller's have to do something with a shortened lift too it seems just by looking at it.


 

Last edited by brakeless; 08-27-2024 at 10:17 PM.
  #34  
Old 08-27-2024, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by brakeless
What makes the Muller pull easier is the increased length. Just like some of the adapters like Burly they sell that connect to the end of the ramp and cable. The 18⁰ is what I have now which is what it came with stock. 06 and up came stock with the reduced effort ramp assy which I believe is the same as the 21⁰ version with a slight modification to the ramps. The teardrop tapered socket in Muller's have to do something with a shortened lift too it seems just by looking at it.

snip
You have it backwards.. Think about it. What is harder to climb a 18 degree incline or a 21 degree? 18 is easier but if you walk the same distance on both you'll be lower height wise.

The early TC ramps were 21 while the 06 up ramps were 18.

Look at the link not only was the arm longer but the ramps are closer to the center. It's kind of like a rear wheel.. Increase the diameter of the rear pulley and you put more force to the ground. Decrease the diameter of the rear wheel and you do the same.. The muller does both.
 
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  #35  
Old 08-27-2024, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
You have it backwards.. Think about it. What is harder to climb a 18 degree incline or a 21 degree? 18 is easier but if you walk the same distance on both you'll be lower height wise.

The early TC ramps were 21 while the 06 up ramps were 18.

Look at the link not only was the arm longer but the ramps are closer to the center. It's kind of like a rear wheel.. Increase the diameter of the rear pulley and you put more force to the ground. Decrease the diameter of the rear wheel and you do the same.. The muller does both.
Yeah that makes sense. I guess I did get it backwards. I was too lazy to run out to the garage and look at the easy pull one in the cabinet. I know it's marked, I just guessed wrong apparently.
So, anymore ideas on what I could try?
 
  #36  
Old 08-28-2024, 02:43 PM
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I had the Easy Pull Ramp 25604-00A in my bike. Which I believed to be the 18⁰ version. I think I got it from JP Cycles years ago. Now I have a OE 21⁰ ramp in it with what I was told is a measured 257 lb Diaphragm Spring.
 
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