So I have another post a little older than this one where for whatever reason ( probably adjustment ) but the throwout bearing was not on the end of the pushrod, and the actuator was damaged by the pushrod spinning it in the housing. So I have now installed a new pushrod kit ( all pieces minus the oil slinger. And a new clutch actuator. This is a hydraulic clutch.

Problem is ( if it is a problem ) the clutch lever will not pull pack more than half way.

Other than that the clutch seems to operate normally. Shifts into first from neutral a little heavy when cold, and does not like to catch neutral all the time when at a complete stop ( I attribute this to the rivera primo clutch and the fact that I run ATF in the primary ).

bike and parts:
This is a 2004 American Ironhorse with an S and S 111 and a 6 speed tranny ( 6 speeds in an Evo era 5 speed housing )
Rivera primo pro clutch ( the one with the smaller hub and larger friction plates and the many tooth plates ( about 30 compared to the more modern 12 tab design )
New master cylinder installed elsewhere that I immediately had to rebuild. 11/16" bore. This was a change from a joker machine custom assembly to a stock harley design aftermaket unit.
New actuator, throw out bearing thrust washers, and all three pieces of the pushrod assembly.

Now my understanding of how this works is that basically the system is a no freeplay system. So no matter what you set the pushrod to as far as backing off the slave piston will adjust to no freeplay because the clutch springs will push the pushrod and slave cylinder piston back until the clutch is fully engaged and then thats it there is nothing to push the slave cylinder piston further pack and return the freeplay.
That being said for reassembly and adjustment I do the following:

1) bleed the air out of the system ( there are ohh so many ways )
2) once the air is out without touching the clutch handle I open the bleeder and then turn the cutch adjustment rod inward until it contacts the piston and then I continue turning till the piston is seated in the bore. ( verified by fluid coming out the bleeder and then stopping )
3) close the bleeder
4) back off the adjuster, turn back in until lightly seated, and then back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn and tighten the locking nut.

Now At this point I can pull the handle all the way back to the bar and ride. but as I continue to ride very quickly the lever starts to reach maxomum travel further and further away from the grip ( and Im assuming as the slave piston has less gap to fill each time ) until the furthest you can pull the lever back is about half way. Bike shifts normally except for the sometimes hard to find neutral when stopped and the dragging clutch when cold.

Thoughts about this? I've got a couple of ideas about it but I wanted to see what this group thought about this before I start tearing things apart again.

Thanks in advance!!

 

OK, first thing first is to fully seat the clutch slave piston into the bore and then adjust the clutch packby backing off the adjuster lock nut and LIGHTLY seating the adjuster screw then back off 1/2-1 full turn (I typically use 3/4 turn). Then lock that down and start the bleed process, you don't bleed with the clutch pack unadjusted nor adjust without the slave fully seated as it will cause a bad clutch adjustment. Once bled do not open the bleeder valve as this will reintroduce air into the system. Once the bleed is done, test the clutch, if you are still having issues tie the lever back overnight as there may still be air in the system, this'll allow the air to vent out through the MC.

 

So where is the throwout bearing? Sounds like it's missing.

 

I dont have an issue with air in the system. The lever is firm from the beginning. The problem is that the lever only has about 50 percent travel. i.e. Once you pull the lever about half way to the bar thats it. You cannot pull it any further. I have tried seating the slave piston also, then bleeding, then readjusting for 3/4 turn ish freeplay, no different.

 

The throwout bearing is brand new and installed, along with a new pushrod, adjuster piece, pushrod to actuator piece( the part the throwout sits on ) 2 new thrust washers and an new snap ring. In addition to a new actuator housing and piston etc.

 

OK it sounds like the slave is running out of travel. Either you really didn't bottom the slave out or some part of the clutch release bearing assembly is limiting the slave travel.

 

duplicate post

 

How much movement are you getting at the clutch spring when you'll the clutch, maybe you need a shorter rod with this hydraulic clutch setup.

 

Thanks for the advice so far everyone.

So without touching anything I took the actuator cover off to take a peek. The portion of the pushrod which holds the bearing is almost touching the locknut for the tranny shaft. I would guess there is less than 1/8" travel available there. This is obviously the reason that the lever will only pull half way. The pushrod end is hard stopping on the locknut for the tranny. This is obviously not the correct situation. Before I installed the new pieces of the new pushrod kit I checked all three to make sure that the length was identical and it was, I also eyeballed the pistons in the old and new actuators and they seem identical.
so:
1) How much travel should there be between fully engaged clutch and disengaged? ( Im referring to rod movement here, not diaphram spring travel ) ?
2) Could it be that my diaphram spring is just worn out so it no longer has the correct arch ( for lack of a better term ) to allow the rod to have travel?
3) It seems like I could kinda hack this by using the clutch pushrod adjuster to add more travel ( screw it towards the piston ) as long as its not in contact with the piston 24 x 7 this should work but I think that risks causing the throw out bearing to be riding on the piston too much.
4) Is it possible with the rivera primo clutches for the plates to be worn enough for this situation to occur yet not slip?

Once again thanks for the input. Im gonna email rivera primo and see what they say also.

 

OK I think I got this figured.

While the instructions that come with the clutch actuator state that you can remove the oil slinger and use the right side clutch pushrod end, this does not seem to be entirely true. The pushrod end that I have( that came with the replacement kit ) also has a "shoulder" cast into the end for the slinger to rest against. ( I pressed the slinger off ) The seat is what is contacting the transmisson shaft and stopping the rod early. Its thick about 1/4 inch.
I've ordered the rod end that comes without the slinger but Im tempted to grind the end off the current new one and see if it works.

I'll post back with final details.