Broken countershaft bearing removal
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Remove the gearset, drive the remaining part of the outer race out of the case, either direction, use a socket or bearing driver.
Maybe even sacrifice a new bearing to use as a tool to drive out the remainder of the old bearing (they are cheap).
Another option would be an expanding blind hole puller.
The easy way is to push it, not pull it, that`s why I suggested removing the gearset.
The transmission case does not need to be removed from the frame.
Again I ask, isn`t this bike still under warranty?
Maybe even sacrifice a new bearing to use as a tool to drive out the remainder of the old bearing (they are cheap).
Another option would be an expanding blind hole puller.
The easy way is to push it, not pull it, that`s why I suggested removing the gearset.
The transmission case does not need to be removed from the frame.
Again I ask, isn`t this bike still under warranty?
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 01-24-2019 at 09:30 AM.
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hrdtail78 (01-24-2019)
#13
Holy crap!!! Looks like it was pressed in too far to start with or the trap door bearing is shot and the axial thrust from the helical cut gears got it. Dan looks like he has the gearset out. Dans idea of using a new bearing to drive out the old may work. We have a main drive gear tool part number ToolE-GB that also works on the countershaft bearing that may help. The integrity of what's left of the bearing should be pretty weak at this point and SHOULD come out pretty easy.
#14
Remove gear set. Is the inward lip still there enough to get a press plug on. (IE Socket) My go to for exploded bearings is to weld a bar or circle plug into them to give me something to push against or pull with. If you have your tools ready and a plan set. The heat put into the case by welding will also be a plus. A cut off wheel would be a hard way to go. If you had to cut. I would think cutting longitudinal with a jig saw or saws all blade would be best. Good luck.
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That's not good. You can drive that out into the case with a socket, I think a 15/16ths was pretty close. Then drive a new one in from the inside out ...use the socket again or a wooden dowel...freeze the bearing first. Then like Mark from baker said you better find out why that shaft walked in the first place. Does everybody think that the nut or nuts on the end the shafts weren't torqued right when it was converted to chain drive? It would definitly make you think that someone has been in that transmission before.
#20
I've had to do this one before, i did it kind of how you described. with the gear set out, small dremel with carbide bit, work a groove into it without going through, then scribe to pry out the remainder. then insert new bearing from inside of case and tap into place until flush on the back side. try to get an idea of how deep from looking at another bike, and try to check your end play clearance, to make sure the bearing is seated deep enough.
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