Over this past weekend I install the Reduced Effort Clutch Kits in both my '01 Roadking and my wifes '02 FXDL. What a BIG difference this will make when riding in stop and go traffic. It was very easy to install, about an hour each bike. But, what a difference. Best money I've spent on the bikes in quite a while, well worth the $45 .

Kit includes a new clutch spring and inner/outer ramps that significantly reduce clutch lever effort. Original Equipment on '06 Twin Cam-equipped models.

36808-05

IN-STORE PURCHASE ONLY Contact dealer for pricing and availability.

Fits '99-'05 Twin Cam-equipped models. Stock on '06 Twin Cam-equipped models.

MSRP US $44.95

 

I'm buying one!

Ride safe.

Crow

 

I'm having mine installed today while they do my 1K maintenance I get stuck in about 5mile backup on my way to work and it's not the stop and go but the go real slow three feet at a time where you have to have it at the friction zone for quite awhile It was killing my hand. Look forward to this keeping me from developing the one Popeye forearm. lol Would have hated to have to get the anchor tattoo on it

 

Is everything you need for the install included? I am thinking of getting them for my RKC and the wife's FXD. THanks

 

No it never is. The kit is 44.95 but you need 40.00 worth of gaskets 2qts oil adds up to over 100.00 in parts and then about 100.00 in labor I was quoted 206.00 installed

 

I cut the bottom from a plastic 1 gallon milk container and drained the tranny fluid to reuse it as it only had about 1k on it. I also reused the clutch cover gaskets (rubber ring) I did replace the gasket on the mechanism side, just to be on the safe side. All totaled I had about $100 in both bikes. They work fantastic and there are no leaks. Also, they were a breeze to install (about 1 hour each). Word of warning, on the Road King you will likely have to loosen the exhaust to get to the clutch cable mechanism to install the new part.

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You do NOT need to drain the primary case oil. On the clutch pack side...remove the clutch pack inspection cover then remove the retaining plate bolts and pull the old spring up against the primary cover with a little bit sticking out, then yank it out, don't worry...it WILL come out. To put the new spring in, bend it slightly while inserting it into the primary cover, when you feel like it is fairly tight against the opening, tap it in with a rubber mallet to get it into the cover. Reinstall the retaining bolts (torque to specs) then replace the cover. Like i said, i reused the gasket, you do what you want.

After you drain the tranny fluid, adjust the clutch cable to remove ALL tension then remove the bolts on the clutch cable cover and pull it away from the bike. Follow the instructions that come with the kit, you WILL need a set of snap ring pliers as the ramp and ball mechanism is retained by a very strong snap ring.

When you have everything put back together, don't forget to adjust your clutch
I assure you that it is WELL worth the effort.

I did it twice in one day so if you have any questions, let me know and I'll try to help

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Lots of good info. I like the fact that I won't have to grind & fit, like I would have to do with the White Bros. piece. Sounds like the MOCO got it right.
I was curious as to how far into the clutch disassembly I would have to go to install the spring ( I guess I should look in my service manual ) You've explained it well.

 

Keep in mind here guys, the new HD unit uses a softer spring to achieve a lighter pull (thus the change in spring) on the clutch along with a redesigned ball and ramp setup. The white brothers unit maintains the stock spring, which to me translates into a more effective and longer lasting clutch especially so when there is more power than stock in your motor or riding 2 up on a bagger. Just my.02

 

Neckball; you don't go in very far at all, it is really no big deal.

TCSTD; I understand what you are saying, I had the same thought myself so we rode it two up last night. Didn't notice any drag......just smooth and easy. As you know the bike has a 95" kit and Power Commander (a new update one, at their expense) and it really runs and rides nice...now!

 

Thanks for the writeup on your experience Jim.

You are right about "extra" parts needed. Once you get into the mechanicals, there is usually more than just the part you are replacing to consider. You should research and judge whether you have the necessary tools, gaskets, sealants, lubricants, etc. before you start, and also whether you have the skill set necessary to complete the job. Of course, for all you other guys, your first purchase was a Shop Manual, right? It will tell you most of what you need to know before you even think about do-it-yourself vs. take it to the dealer decisions. The other source to consult is your dealer's part man. He will/can let you know what you need for parts, AND mine will print out the installation instructions for any part I am thinking of buying before I do. I suggest you ask him too. If he is any good he will help you out anyway he can.

I'm adventuresome, have a limited set of tools, love to do what I think I can on my cars and bike, but I'm definitely not a trained mechanic - and I've proved it!

I just finished installing the reduced effort clutch kit for my 00 FDXWG this last weekend. It was very easy, but I first picked up a $25 inner/outer retaining clip tool at Sears (P/N 9 47397) with multiple tips that could handle up to a 2" span. I needed one of these for this job and it will come in handy again on the other side some day if I need to replace the clutch pac. It is a pretty stiff clip, and it can fly a long way if you don't have the right tool, or as Harley always warns "... could result in death or serious injury" . I reused the tranny oil also, as it had only 2K on SYN3, and looked as clear as the new bottled extras I bought just in case. I bought the $5 right side tranny inspection gasket just to be safe. Total cost ~ $75. Though the shop manual talks about loosening and retightening the clutch cable fastner to the inspection cover, I didn't need to for my FXDWG. I just had to protect my pipes and twist and set the cover on the top one with the cable in place while removing the clip, replacing the ramp and *****, and reattaching the cable.

The way I looked at this kit was, that I still have the original ramp and spring, and if I were to add horsepower later and that became an issue, I could always put the original spring back in, and keep the new cable ramps in place. While the spring may make a difference, it looks like the elongated slots in the new ramps for the throwout ***** must add a lot to where the reduced effort comes from. Anyone know for sure?

The difference from Jim's install and mine was I also wanted to replace the stock primary chain tensioner with a new H-D automatic like the 06 Dynas come with, so I took off the primary cover on the left side. I think I killed two birds with one stone, saved some cost, and avoided the risk I would have taken to try and replace the pressure plate through the derby cover. (I would have dropped one or more of the clutch pac bolts down in the primary anyway ). That made the new clutch spring a piece of cake to replace, AND it made it extremely simple to readjust the clutch, as there was plenty of room for a wrench and a screwdriver to set the throwout rod play just right. (One day I will make the bolt and socket tool some of you guys have suggested). That added $30 for a new primary cover gasket and say $8 for a new quart of SYN3 to the clutch change.

About the chain tensioner. I had to wait for over a month for the backordered chain tensioner to show up at my dealer. This "special" $100 pre-paid order and wait was on my dime, and it makes me mad when they will be selling and installing thousands of these, but I wanted to do both of these changes now [:'(]. I chose this one over the HB-125 and the M-6, because it is a H-D part, and any trouble it or another part might give me won't be a reason to void my warranty. I don't know if it is a "better" tensioner t