Cool tool. Nice design.. Don't need it tho.

 

okay......looked at the inner trans oils seal while everything was apart......looked ok......everything buttoned up and MURPHY'S LAW........trans oil seal leaking......

Is it possible to replace that oil seal HD#12077 without removing the large nut??

 

I would replace all three. And yes, to do that requires the nut to come off. Rusty as yours looks, it may be tight. Normally, they are not that tight. But it's nice to hit it with an impact.

 

Item # 13.....part # 12077.........I dont think I have to remove that nut as I already used a dental pick to remove the old one and looks like I can push on a new one....

 

That is the one that got damaged. 10 catches the oil on the outside of the main drive gear that sneaks under the spline for the big pulley. There is another on the clutch pushrod I think.

 

Thanks Murph ! My Bad...... I had a chance to see one apart and it dead heads behind the nut in the hub where the splines start... Rip, is that what you were calling the bevel ?

 

No, I just knew it did not bottom on that inner race. That would never have worked. It would have pushed the race back when you torqued clutch hub left-hand nut. I actually thought it bottomed a little further back on that first bevel you see above (grayed area on shaft just before shiny ground area were race goes on..note above that Murph has not installed race yet in photo above). Interesting however were it does bottom. On the end of that serration. However, it is a rolled type application (I think..but could be a broach..) on that shaft and is very close tolerance. That drive chain sprocket nut must align closer than a .032 (1/32) of an inch to the front one. That is how much wider the chain links are then the sprockets. Back around 2003 or so, Harley went to stand parts in the primary. Before that, they had 10 different shims that they could use on the front under the compensator flange to align. They now use a standard one.

 

OK......ALL back together......did NOT have to take off the big nut to get that seal out......did it with dental tools.......installed new one by using a 1" PVC pipe to drive it in......worked like a charm........finally got to button it all up yesterday and a short ride around the block and everything looked good.......so went on a 150 mile trip .......NO leaks......sounds fine........all good........
Thanks for all the help here guys!!!!!
Murph

 

 

kinda late to reply.... but Yes, it has a "lip" in the inside of the race that will not allow it to move inboard to the trans seal.
yes the baker was a single row.
it just started making a whirring, howling sound. kinda hard to describe.