Hope your new puller works, I'd be fairly panicked.

I'm curious, what causes this kind of wear on those bearings? Poor bearing material? From the pics it looks like the roller material just dissolved like it wasn't hard or slick enough, like the rollers weren't spinning . Would a lubrication issue cause wear like that?

 

Never panic.........there is always a way........

I will being taking pics of that bearing puller in action.......I will be using the broken part of the bearing to fill in where it's missing now......if it works that puller will be for sale as I'm going to the BAKER bearing which eliminates that race altogether......and will never have that race issue again. (does that make me a RACIST)

Dont know why the rollers nor the race look like they do......could of been some clutch goo built up in there.......and maybe the debris from the starter ring gear contacting the inner primary (see pics of inner primary)

 

I think the hardening process was so thin, that it's shell just simply flaked off.
You have very little left of the press fit of the inner race. Should not be real tight now. When you notch the remaining area of the race for that pin for the puller to latch on, your problem will be, if you tighten down to hard on the cutoff part with the puller collar, it will be clamping on the input shaft. Be sure to deburr the inner edge of that segment of the inner race it before using it.

 

Thanks Rip.....I understand the clamping pressure......but If i cut just enough off, that pin on the puller won't be putting clamping pressure on the race......it'll just sit in that trough and the only pressure should be pulling off....
Already deburred that broken off piece.......more pics and info when i get the puller and see how it goes.

 

Why do you favor a ball bearing over a HD roller bearing and S&S race? Cost?

 

Cost has nothing to do with it........not a fan of the original bearing design.....NOT a Mechanical Engineer or anything like that......just doesn't look right to me...
Why not just use a sealed bearing or an open bearing like the BAKER one.......NEVER have to worry about the race moving......

Inside the primary it's splash oil.......so there's no real pressure there!!

Would like to know the reasoning behind the MOCO's design here......just looks like another bad design of an item that didn't need to be redesigned.

 

A roller bearing is better choice for a radial load. With the S&S race, you don't have to worry about the race moving. The HD bearing will take more abuse.

 

Yea thanks I understand that.....more surface area to carry the load.....but I'm gonna try the BAKER and see how it goes..........if it doesn't hold up I'll be going the S&S race and Harley route

 

As an engineering point, Harley did not like the idea of that inner race of a ball bearing sliding on the input shaft and simple driving when the load is applied so the ***** turn and the inner race does not spin. If by chance, that aftermarket bearing replacement was to fail, it's going to take out that input shaft. A rather expensive repair.

Just my opinion but that sleeve with the taper which from rereading that post reference by lookout would be my choice. However, I have never heard of anyone on here with any problem from the what you are getting ready to do letting that inner race slip fit be on there. I would think Baker has specked their ball bearing on a load design similar to Harley's needle bearing. Baker knows what they are doing. Just a different thought. I would think it should be a double row. It also could have metal shields rather than rubber seals. You see metal shields on roller bearings in gear boxes with oil in foreign car manual gearboxes. They keep metal and trash out yet allow lubricant in but still come grease packet. All this is just my opinion from an engineering opinion.

 

the Baker bearing only lasted 22k for me, I just installed the S&S race and a factory bearing, we'll see how long this one lasts.