Hopefully quick clutch question
#11
Ok I had another go at it as per RIPSAWs post and it's definitely better. I'm now at 3/4 of a turn and the cable slack was around 1/8", it's now 1/16". On closer inspection my fluid level was high, I took about 100mls out and it feels much better. So thank you all once again for the help, it's very much appreciated!!
Cheers, Matt.
Cheers, Matt.
#13
#15
I have seen that higher level also. Think Harley came out with that when the went to the side mounted glue on drip pan that mounts inside on the face of the cover. They also increased the fluid amount slightly. On bikes with cruise control and steady high speed interstate driving, the oil was being kept in an outer circle as the chain spun starving the compensator of lubrication.
This does not happen in varied speed with stop and go driving. Mainly, running the upper level like your sketch will just make a little harsher clunk when you shift into 1st when bike is cold (New bikes have a special clutch that breaks disk apart better now..thinks there is more belleville spring damper rings in it)). Finding neutral is more a practice and small muscle control that some people always struggle with..(Like golf??HA!) (all this is just my engineering opinion...
Be sure bike is level, make you a little bent dip stick that you can drop in and catch it on the lip and spin it to see if it hits the oil level. Note what it takes and right it down. Now for now on, just pour it in noting the level on the bottle. That works for me. Mine only needs 26 ozs. Five speed Transmission only needs 24 ozs on my 2004 Softail.
This does not happen in varied speed with stop and go driving. Mainly, running the upper level like your sketch will just make a little harsher clunk when you shift into 1st when bike is cold (New bikes have a special clutch that breaks disk apart better now..thinks there is more belleville spring damper rings in it)). Finding neutral is more a practice and small muscle control that some people always struggle with..(Like golf??HA!) (all this is just my engineering opinion...
Be sure bike is level, make you a little bent dip stick that you can drop in and catch it on the lip and spin it to see if it hits the oil level. Note what it takes and right it down. Now for now on, just pour it in noting the level on the bottle. That works for me. Mine only needs 26 ozs. Five speed Transmission only needs 24 ozs on my 2004 Softail.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 10:18 AM.
#17
Be sure it's cold before adjusting. Then have the correct oil in it as far as velocity and that it is at the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring. Now here is where Harley is wrong. Only back off the cable length a few turns at most. Now break the clutch lock nut and screw the adjuster in till it bottoms. Now, turn it in two more complete turns in to deburr that fine thread adjuster. Now back back out a few and then back in till it touches again. Now do your 1/2 to 3/4 turn back off and tighten the locknut. (note that fine thread only requires 72 in/lbs torque..everyone over tightens it and is why you need to deburr thread as I say above) That will give you clearance required so even if it gets smoking hot and swells, there will be clearance room.
Now adjust the clearance on the cable to a maximum of 1/16 or 1.6 MM checking at both locks sides of the bars. That will give you all the throw possible to completely disengage of the clutch drive and driven disks.
Now only try to find neutral from low. Pushing bike back slightly with your right leg as you lever up will probably help.
Not sure were Mark got that 1/4 backoff except for a Sporty which is a front side coarse thread push rod which on them, you can use that amount.
Now adjust the clearance on the cable to a maximum of 1/16 or 1.6 MM checking at both locks sides of the bars. That will give you all the throw possible to completely disengage of the clutch drive and driven disks.
Now only try to find neutral from low. Pushing bike back slightly with your right leg as you lever up will probably help.
Not sure were Mark got that 1/4 backoff except for a Sporty which is a front side coarse thread push rod which on them, you can use that amount.
#18
Thanks Mark, that definitely answers my original question. What I've found now is neutral is a bit easier to find, but I put that down to the bit of primary fluid I took out. The problem now is gear changes aren't as smooth and I really have to pull the clutch all the way back to the grip to get it to disengage properly. So I'm thinking that if I go from 3/4 back to 1/4 that should help with that, I just worried about maybe getting some high speed slipping when it heats up. Am I on the right track? And maybe I just have to keep fiddling with it to find a happy medium?
Cheers, Matt.
Cheers, Matt.
#20
If you only back it off 1/4 turn from a true zero free play on a large cruiser, that will only give you about .012 clearance to divide between all those disk. If it gets hot and they all swell, you may just run out of free play and destroy that throw out bearing. since it will spinning all the time.
Use 1/2 turn as a minimum. Then keep the free play in the cable to the minimum. That way, you will get more then enough disk separation since it comes from lever travel. (minimum cable free-play results in maximum clutch plate separation)
If you ever have the primary cover off, you will clearly see this when you pull the lever in and see the plates separate. If you still have clutch drag, you just may have some warped plates from heat.
Use 1/2 turn as a minimum. Then keep the free play in the cable to the minimum. That way, you will get more then enough disk separation since it comes from lever travel. (minimum cable free-play results in maximum clutch plate separation)
If you ever have the primary cover off, you will clearly see this when you pull the lever in and see the plates separate. If you still have clutch drag, you just may have some warped plates from heat.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 10:18 AM.