Over the winter I rebuilt my engine and in the meantime I figured, what the hey, I may as well paint my tank since I had these old decals from the late 30's sittin around and the tank was off. So I purchased some rattle cans from HD and fired away. After sanding and prepping ,I shot the base coat, gloss black, and it went on fine. I sanded with 600-1000 and then applied the decals which had to be soaked in water for 5 seconds. I used some decal prep solutions to smooth out the decals and on the surface of the tank, can't remember the name of them.Next day I shot the clear coat which like the black base coat was rattle-can acrylic laquer that HD must of had sitting around for quite awhile. Anyway, the clear coat cans were spitting quite a bit in spite of the fact I shook the sheet out of them and cleaned the nozzles. The end result was that the clear coat has little bubbles and looks less than satisfactory. So, I'm going to wet sand the surface with 600-1500 and then re-shoot the clear. No one carries lacquer anymore, even the body shops don't use it, so what gloss clear coat is compatible with a lacquer base coat and won't dissolve it or start peeling in 6 months? Availability in a rattle can is a plus. Attached is a photo,thanks in advance.
By the way, I called around to a few retailers of Sherwin-Williams, PPG and Dupont products in my area and the sales people were like " I dunno" as to what would be compatible. Gone are the days when salespeople actually knew their product.

 

Love the sticker, but why didnt you put in on level?

 

In '36 and '37, it was put on like you see it on mine. In '38 and '39 they put it on level. There were 2 variations to it, one with an oval pinstripe around it and the other with a pinstripe, centered, in front and behind the decal.

 

I've worked in collision repair for 20 some years using mostly PPG and I was there in the beginning when PPG started with their basecoats. The basecoat was lacquer and the clearcoat was urethane enamel. Nothing has really changed. Today we are using waterbase basecoats and clearing with polyurethane enamel clears. If you still have doubts test on a separate panel. Remember...enamel over lacquer not lacquer over enamel or it lifts

 

First mistake was using lacquer...after a few years it's going to check and haze. As Trapperwny said test a small panel with the left over aerosol clear and use a good quality urethane over it..DC3000 PPG clear would be an good choice. Were the problem may be is if you break thru the existing clear and the new clear eats at that edge. How long has it been since you cleared it? My suggestion would be sanding with 1000 grit let it sit open for a few days then clear it with the DC3000. Only problem is it isn't available in a spray can. Good luck...next time go with urethane clears.

 

No Offense Offered but some of the worst advice I have been given was from auto body people.
Since most do not have a background in lacquer art I find their attempts at advice nothing more than undocumented opinion...no apologies given.
LACQUER is one of the finest coatings you can find.
Unlike Nitrocellulose Lacquer , which is awesome, Acrylic Lacquers do not Crack.
Auto parts stores sell Duplicolor lacquer. Sherwin Williams is the distributor.
I just finished a project, Pearl White Lacquer. I like to let the color coat cure prior to the clear coat. There is a different between dry and cured. Since my projects are small enough to fit into my house they cure for at least 3 days or whenever . .. Then I clear coat ... with Lacquer.
With lacquer colors I blast a fine thin final coat. Cure the hell out of it 3 days is good. When cured notice the feel of the finish, it should be faintly rough, as opposed to glass smooth . I DO NOT SAND IT AT THIS POINT. I Shoot the clear lacquer on, not too thick. You will be amazed how the color takes on a deep appearance, 5 coats of clear and you are ready for mind altering awesomeness.
The Original French Hand Polish is literally with ones bare hand. By rubbing the finished project with ones bare hand, the oils of the skin and body heat and the heat from the friction literally bring the finish ALIVE.
Enjoy the Lacquer ... Joey the Green
I got more on HD tank finishes, frames and since I'm a Guitar Professional, Guitars too lol

 

duplicolor rattle cans sold at a lot of part stores.
black will show every defect and do not expect to get bubbles out as they usually go to the base and then the decal issue.
the bad thing about rattle can is you cannot put additives in it.

 

Check out Spramax 2k clear. It is a 2 part clear in a spray can that is activated just before you use it. Lacquer can give you an excellent finish, but spilled fuel will kick it's azz, dull it and ruin the finish. Spraymax is a true two part clear and is fuel resistant. YD