Can anyone stop these bikes
#1
Can anyone stop these bikes
Hi All,
As a new member of this forum i was wondering what everyones view is on the poor breaking on the original 1958 Duo glide drum brakes. I have no issue with the back brake being bad as ony about 30% of braking happens there. The front brake not only needs significant strength to pull the cable in but even when it is, it doesnt exactly stop. It is running the original drum brake and realy looks cool. however sometimes you need to stop rather than be cool. Has anyone done any mods to their front brake to retain the cool look with actual stoping power? Can you convert them to hydraulic powered. Can you somehow make it look original but actualy stop?
any info would be helpful thanks.
As a new member of this forum i was wondering what everyones view is on the poor breaking on the original 1958 Duo glide drum brakes. I have no issue with the back brake being bad as ony about 30% of braking happens there. The front brake not only needs significant strength to pull the cable in but even when it is, it doesnt exactly stop. It is running the original drum brake and realy looks cool. however sometimes you need to stop rather than be cool. Has anyone done any mods to their front brake to retain the cool look with actual stoping power? Can you convert them to hydraulic powered. Can you somehow make it look original but actualy stop?
any info would be helpful thanks.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
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Well I have been riding pans since 1970 and to my knowledge no one makes a set up that really makes the stopping power of a drum plate that much better. You can have your drum turned, install new pad, make sure they are centered properly but in the end you are looking at some old technology that is just that...old technology.
Don't think you can take a front and convert it to hydraulic set up. That is why places like Performance Machine hit a gold mine when they started making disc set us for old pans and shovels...suddenly you could actually stop the bike.
"The front brake needs significant strength to pull the cable in"...when is the last time you lubricate the steel wire core. Shouldn't be a difficult pull at all.
Guess I have adjusted to it on my 65 and 49. Learned to allow greater time for stopping and always keep an extra margin of space in front of me. I know that will not cover all aspects of riding but so far it has worked for me.
Don't think you can take a front and convert it to hydraulic set up. That is why places like Performance Machine hit a gold mine when they started making disc set us for old pans and shovels...suddenly you could actually stop the bike.
"The front brake needs significant strength to pull the cable in"...when is the last time you lubricate the steel wire core. Shouldn't be a difficult pull at all.
Guess I have adjusted to it on my 65 and 49. Learned to allow greater time for stopping and always keep an extra margin of space in front of me. I know that will not cover all aspects of riding but so far it has worked for me.
#4
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Neither my 59 nor my 62 have much stopping power in front. Hill holders is about all they are worth. They have good shoes and the drums fit well, the cables/levers work well, they just are not very good brakes. Put a set of custom narrowed trees on the 62 some years back (a chop job), and left the brake off, no room, could hardly tell the difference in stopping power with only the rear brake. Rear brakes will skid the tire, so don't see the need for a better brake back there. But have had several close calls now, so looking at putting a better brake on the front of the chop, have several disks and calipers off whatever, figuring on machining an adapter that will bolt to the star hub so I can bolt up a disk and float the caliper anchored off the old drum ear on the left lower leg. If I am successful, will post pix and a drawing.
Last edited by 2Loose; 06-10-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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