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1956 panhead

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  #11  
Old 07-16-2010 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hdjunior
so what point should i have it set at to kick it over in the begining? while it is running i should have it in full advance am i correct?
depending on your motor...my 49 is about half way retarded (clockwise) to start, brother-in-law 50 uses about one-third. but once engine starts, both go to full advance (counter clockwise). If you still need it retarded to run properly the timing is off.
 
  #12  
Old 07-16-2010 | 06:53 PM
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sqdealgeorge
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My 52 is like this retard to the stop to start then advance to the stop to run Again CCW to advance My knucklehead is locked in the advance mode 80 CI S&S bottom Linkert carb 4 kicks with choke Take choke off fires in 2 kicks I do have LC pistons in the knuck
 
  #13  
Old 07-17-2010 | 10:37 AM
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i am going to be testingout one theroy today, im gonna try and see if the points were adjusted correctly and hopefully that would be it. wish me luck guys.
 
  #14  
Old 07-17-2010 | 11:32 AM
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well i cant seem to find the how to in my notes on how to adjust/set the points. if anyone has a step by step list of how to adjust/set the points please let me know asap.
 
  #15  
Old 07-17-2010 | 01:37 PM
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Hope this is single pt system The pts should be set at .022 at the lobe on the timing cam(hi point of the cam ) the pts have a screw loosen adj pts to .022 the tighten pt screw Timing is another must call me 608 847 4240 any time I get back to you Way to much typing for me
 
  #16  
Old 07-17-2010 | 03:43 PM
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it is the single point set up, i know i need to have the cam lobe at the point where the points open up. but where do i need to have the distriutor at to set the points? full advance or full retard or does it not matter where its at just get the cam lobe to the point where the points open?
 
  #17  
Old 07-17-2010 | 05:45 PM
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Points set on the high side of the cam lobe with timer in full advance position.
 
  #18  
Old 07-17-2010 | 06:28 PM
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what is the gap im supposed to set it at? and how would i be sure that it would be working correctly? would i be able to use a test light to the points and other end to ground? please let me know asap i live in texas and its not fun to kick a bike over in the hot hot heat!!!
 
  #19  
Old 07-18-2010 | 10:15 AM
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Set points at .022. There should be just a slight drag across the points using the feeler gauge when set correctly.

Loosen timing hole plug. Rotate engine in the direction it turns until front piston is on compression stroke (front intake tappet has just bottomed out).

Remove timing plug and continue to rotate engine until timing slot for the front cylinder is aligned in the inspection hole.

At this point the timing mark and the fiber rider on the point should be aligned. If not loosen adjusting band to correct and retighten (timer must be in full advance position).

An accurate check as to when point just start to open cam be done with a simple test lamp. Connect one test lamp lead to ;ow tension terminal on the coil (rear) and connect the other lead to the battery positive pole. Connect another wire between the battery negative terminal and a D-Ring or other screw. Turn the ignition on (light will go out).

With timer fully advanced against stop and flywheel mark correctly positioned contact points are just beginning to open (lamp should be OFF).

The instant direction is reversed (spark control retarded from full advance) the points should close (lamp ON)
 
  #20  
Old 07-18-2010 | 01:02 PM
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I like the advance timing line (stock HD wheels ) to be at the rear of the timing inspection hole just visible coming into the hole At this point at fully advanced the point should just start to open like .005 or less (no test light handy) the rest like panz4ever describes
 


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