My longtime friend owns the best classic restoration shop for autos in the state, The Colorworks, and he was talking to me recently about the supposed sin of 'over-restoring' a vehicle. I agree with him: vehicles are meant to be driven--or in this case, ridden--and for people who actually intend to use their vehicles regularly, slavish adherence to OEM parts specs in every instance makes no sense when better materials and methods are available.
This is going to be an amazing, singular restoration in many regards: better than stock IMHO.
I'll be referencing numerous aspects of this thread when rebuilding my oil-starved machine this winter--and may have a few questions for you. What a great resource this thread is.
Thanks for the kind words.. I'm not a restoration expert.. This bike would take a lot of work to restore to all original.. All the chrome would need redone as it all has a little acne . Paint is OK. Instead of replacing all the fasteners and chrome. I'd rather keep the patina and get running real well so that I can ride it... My brother own 3 Porches. All 50s stuff, he's the 2 convertibles looking like they are new but I think he drives the coop more and it's basically original paint but rebuilt to drive.. It gets the most mileage.. The others are more show cars.. I want an antique that is reliable and clean. It doesn't have to be pristine.
Here is what the insides of the turn signals look like.. I've got one housing that is bad, think I found one that matches. They are shallower than the 70-up turn signals..
Thanks for the kind words.. I'm not a restoration expert.. This bike would take a lot of work to restore to all original.. All the chrome would need redone as it all has a little acne . Paint is OK. Instead of replacing all the fasteners and chrome. I'd rather keep the patina and get running real well so that I can ride it... My brother own 3 Porches. All 50s stuff, he's the 2 convertibles looking like they are new but I think he drives the coop more and it's basically original paint but rebuilt to drive.. It gets the most mileage.. The others are more show cars.. I want an antique that is reliable and clean. It doesn't have to be pristine.
Here is what the insides of the turn signals look like.. I've got one housing that is bad, think I found one that matches. They are shallower than the 70-up turn signals.
Yeah, that was my approach with the Pan-Shovel (initial) resurrection. Now that she's almost certainly going to need a complete rebuild, I might do some more cosmetic stuff and a few more custom touches. But basically she's like yours: built for riding, not rolling out a few times a year...
I think those signals look fine for a daily driver. I'm really excited about seeing your bike on the road.
Had to make a cable spacer so that the trap cable for the newer clutch perch. I put the trap back on.. One thing for sure, you don't want anything hanging up the action..
Did a crude version of that brass cable stretcher for the Pan Panz was building, I've used the threaded adjuster ends off bad shovel clutch cables several times over the years. Should really get a few measurement and do a proper one for it before it goes home.
Did a crude version of that brass cable stretcher for the Pan Panz was building, I've used the threaded adjuster ends off bad shovel clutch cables several times over the years. Should really get a few measurement and do a proper one for it before it goes home.
Hey that part looks familiar! One Twizted made for me works like a champ, just not as pretty.
Here you go. Hole though the middle was close to 0.150. Slot was 1/8. An interesting thing with brass is that I tried drilling the 0.15 hole first then the cable hole 0.30 second. The 0.30 drill grabbed an pulled itself into the work. Ended up doing the 0.3 first.. Also I squared the bottom of the hole with a small boring bar..
08-03-2024, 08:14 AM
