Resurrecting the 65.
#251
The following 3 users liked this post by pgreer:
#252
In the early 80s we had seen re pops with the numbers now that I think back - and i have also seen that mis fit before - my age and thousands of jobs today a bike leaves the shop i cant tell you what color it was 10 minutes later
then the import stuff was japan and it was poor quality = they were the china stuff of today but china will never become a real hi quality go to - today we look for it as the USA is not making much in the way of user friendly pieces
they are getting way hard to find and expensive to buy i only have a real choice inner re pop that i kept its a maybe i will need some day
then the import stuff was japan and it was poor quality = they were the china stuff of today but china will never become a real hi quality go to - today we look for it as the USA is not making much in the way of user friendly pieces
they are getting way hard to find and expensive to buy i only have a real choice inner re pop that i kept its a maybe i will need some day
Last edited by johnjzjz; 06-29-2024 at 06:19 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (06-29-2024)
#253
Been working on other bikes but got back to the Pan. Pulled the front wheel and tire.. It's kind of an odd bird with the disc in front with star hub.. Front wheel cleaned up pretty well. It did need rollers. Wheel has Buchanan SS spokes that were way too tight but was able to loosen without sripping or seizing the nibbles. The hubs and rims appear to be aftermarket.. The grease nipple is directly in line with the brake bolt hole. WIF? Wheel trued right up.
#254
Neither I'll post pics later.. It's a james gasket and it seems to fit the outer cover in that area better but kind of in the middle.. At the bottom, the gasket shape has a mismatch that different. I was thinking about that last night..
#255
In the early 80s we had seen re pops with the numbers now that I think back - and i have also seen that mis fit before - my age and thousands of jobs today a bike leaves the shop i cant tell you what color it was 10 minutes later
then the import stuff was japan and it was poor quality = they were the china stuff of today but china will never become a real hi quality go to - today we look for it as the USA is not making much in the way of user friendly pieces
they are getting way hard to find and expensive to buy i only have a real choice inner re pop that i kept its a maybe i will need some day
then the import stuff was japan and it was poor quality = they were the china stuff of today but china will never become a real hi quality go to - today we look for it as the USA is not making much in the way of user friendly pieces
they are getting way hard to find and expensive to buy i only have a real choice inner re pop that i kept its a maybe i will need some day
The following users liked this post:
TwiZted Biker (08-03-2024)
#256
The 1980-1984 shovel SM says has torque specs for the compensator and clutch hub. The 59-69 manual says nothing so I expect that they use the german torque spec: "Gutentight"
Comp Nut: 80-100 ft/lb
Clutch Hub 50-60 ft/lb
I'm thinking to do the lower spec with a couple drops of the red on both.
Any objections to not using the nut locking tab on the clutch hub?
Comp Nut: 80-100 ft/lb
Clutch Hub 50-60 ft/lb
I'm thinking to do the lower spec with a couple drops of the red on both.
Any objections to not using the nut locking tab on the clutch hub?
#257
#259
I always install the lock tab washer on mine. But I've seen plenty of clutch hub nuts without the lock tab washer installed that had no problems. But I've never used any locktite on tapers. I believe that adding anything to the tapers has the chance of affecting the interference fit and abililty to self align the component you are installing.
Lower end or middle of the spec should be fine. It's not like these engines will make 100+ hp. And over tightening is a sure fire way to damage the tapers.
Paul
Lower end or middle of the spec should be fine. It's not like these engines will make 100+ hp. And over tightening is a sure fire way to damage the tapers.
Paul
Last edited by pgreer; 06-29-2024 at 03:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (06-29-2024)
#260
I always install the lock tab washer on mine. But I've seen plenty of clutch hub nuts without the lock tab washer installed that had no problems. But I've never used any locktite on tapers. I believe that adding anything to the tapers has the chance of affecting the interference fit and abililty to self align the component you are installing.
Lower end or middle of the spec should be fine. It's not like these engines will make 100+ hp. And over tightening is a sure fire way to damage the tapers.
Paul
Lower end or middle of the spec should be fine. It's not like these engines will make 100+ hp. And over tightening is a sure fire way to damage the tapers.
Paul
Not planning to put anything on the tapers. Only the threads.. I like the tapers squeaky clean..
The following users liked this post:
pgreer (06-29-2024)