Been looking at the heads and rockers. On the heads the current stem protrusion without new guides and seats is 1.580-1.600. Spec'ed max is 1.550. What seats are you guys using?
Interestingly the valves are marked HD and the intakes are close to 0.377" on the unworn spots. The exhausts are about 0.373" which is what I''d expect. Was it standard for the intake to be that size oor are these oversized valve stem.. Measurement taken in the middle of stem. Ends near valve and keeper groove are worn over 0.002. The exhausts have visible scratches near the valve side on the stem.
I bought Kibblewhites, I'm 99% sure. Got them extremely cheap... if you're interested, I'll hunt down my invoice and see where I got them. Are you looking to install stock size?
...nope: I bought Kibblewhite valves to repair the 'ready to run' S&S heads for my Pan-Shovel, and KPMI seats, from Goodson. They've gone up from $7.51 to $9.99. Was able to recut the new seats in the S&S heads, so didn't have to R&R them after all.
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; 04-15-2024 at 08:04 PM.
I bought Kibblewhites, I'm 99% sure. Got them extremely cheap... if you're interested, I'll hunt down my invoice and see where I got them. Are you looking to install stock size?
...nope: I bought Kibblewhite valves to repair the 'ready to run' S&S heads for my Pan-Shovel, and KPMI seats, from Goodson. They've gone up from $7.51 to $9.99. Was able to recut the new seats in the S&S heads, so didn't have to R&R them after all.
Right now it's a toss up between Kibblewhite and AVnV.. If your heads were SnS they probably have 1.94 intakes and 1.75 exhaust. Basically shovelhead valves.. I don't plan on going oversized on the valves. Pans are 1.75 both intake and exhaust..
Well I am not sure these are gonna work out for you. Rocker arms are within specs. Bases are definitely suspect (and only 3). Tops are good. Maybe not any better than what you have tho. Maybe between these and what you have already you can get four good ones. Me I just get a bit worried thinking about Ted's stuff when it comes to critical mass parts. And rockers are definitely within those confines.
@panz4ever Thanks for dragging them out of the stash. One of yours looks pretty bad. I'm going to try Taiwan Teds stuff. Even if it's made in China, I'd hope that the chinese metallurgy is at least as good as 60s HD.
@panz4ever Thanks for dragging them out of the stash. One of yours looks pretty bad. I'm going to try Taiwan Teds stuff. Even if it's made in China, I'd hope that the chinese metallurgy is at least as good as 60s HD.
Add: I'll be the Guinea Pig..
I'm pretty sure 60's HD metalurgy was pretty good, US steel had been at it for decades. I doubt Chinese would even come close at this point, at least for what they export.
Back in the 60/70s we used to say the same thing about Japanese Steel.. Not anymore.. Unless you guys have used these rockers, you are just wasting space.
The new straight oil pump shaft also bound up some.. With a little scraping of the shaft hole in the case and pump housing I was able to get the oil pump shaft turn by hand. It's still a little snug but with the parts cleaned an assembled with assembly lube, I can spin the drive gear with my fingers. Torqued the nuts to 70 inch lbs.
I'm using the Cometic AFM gasket which is a little thicker after crushed. I had to make a larger breather gear spacer out of 4041. Replaced the inner cam tab and new cam spacer. I added a 0.010 shovel rocker arm spacer to the distributor gear spacer. All end spacing is close to 0.005 after torquing the cover screws to 72 inch-lbs . I want it a little loose as I expect the cometic to crush a little more after some heat cycles. I plan to toss the lower end back in the frame assemble most of the drivetrain while working on the top end..
On the timken retaining ring, I used a bit of the blue and simply tighten it up.. Didn't pin punch the threads. The pinion nut got the red and torque to 25 fp.. Low end of the evo spec.
Also made new hose fittings for the breather hose going to the oil tank.
04-15-2024, 07:53 PM
