Resurrecting the 65.
#141
We never fix a plug that way and your skill lets you do things like that - we weld it solid and drill it dead center so the crack does not come back, yours could - that sucks in the first or second time you remove it once its all together its even thinner and — and it cracked
the oil pump is worth around 300 bucks - drilling and tapping 10/24 because its crumbling type cast iron is what we have done before - but the last 20 years I solder the pipe center closed then we re install it with the hose as well as the vent hose to the frame center to mimic the original look as it matters on that type of machine
cutting the cases when a Yama 4 will seal them — you need to look at the location of the drip hole on the race exit and make sure its going into the roller cage and not being blocked by the cage its self - or you will lean out the feed for the pinion as its only hap Hasard drip oil - your jug spicket diameter shoud be ok but I have seen them tight oem and the gasket drain holes should be ok as well the jug small hole is not used 65 engines, but use a cosmetic cam cover gasket as its thicker then the paper and the oil jet Screw does not like being blocked as you removed material from both the cam cover and the block
using the worn flywheel washers might help with it in the side clearance
its a 35 thousand dollar machine in todays market but no knowing what you did to it would give you anything for it as its a maybe it will work
the oil pump is worth around 300 bucks - drilling and tapping 10/24 because its crumbling type cast iron is what we have done before - but the last 20 years I solder the pipe center closed then we re install it with the hose as well as the vent hose to the frame center to mimic the original look as it matters on that type of machine
cutting the cases when a Yama 4 will seal them — you need to look at the location of the drip hole on the race exit and make sure its going into the roller cage and not being blocked by the cage its self - or you will lean out the feed for the pinion as its only hap Hasard drip oil - your jug spicket diameter shoud be ok but I have seen them tight oem and the gasket drain holes should be ok as well the jug small hole is not used 65 engines, but use a cosmetic cam cover gasket as its thicker then the paper and the oil jet Screw does not like being blocked as you removed material from both the cam cover and the block
using the worn flywheel washers might help with it in the side clearance
its a 35 thousand dollar machine in todays market but no knowing what you did to it would give you anything for it as its a maybe it will work
What caused the crack was the repair drain plug.. I don't think crack will migrate any more.. Only removed about 0.025" Less than 1/2 a thread. I can high temp epoxy it if the crack returns.. After the inner primary fiasco, I don't want to weld on the cases.. The rear cylinder head needs a fin. Maybe leave that alone?
I solder the end shut on the tube.. That way it can be returned to stock easily..
I'm not going to cut between the 2 cases, That cleaned up well enough to reseal.. I am going to trim the cylinder bases in the case as I like max contact in the area and it's pretty dinged up. May try a mill file first.
#142
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
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