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Resurrecting the 65.

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  #141  
Old 03-07-2024, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
We never fix a plug that way and your skill lets you do things like that - we weld it solid and drill it dead center so the crack does not come back, yours could - that sucks in the first or second time you remove it once its all together its even thinner and — and it cracked

the oil pump is worth around 300 bucks - drilling and tapping 10/24 because its crumbling type cast iron is what we have done before - but the last 20 years I solder the pipe center closed then we re install it with the hose as well as the vent hose to the frame center to mimic the original look as it matters on that type of machine

cutting the cases when a Yama 4 will seal them — you need to look at the location of the drip hole on the race exit and make sure its going into the roller cage and not being blocked by the cage its self - or you will lean out the feed for the pinion as its only hap Hasard drip oil - your jug spicket diameter shoud be ok but I have seen them tight oem and the gasket drain holes should be ok as well the jug small hole is not used 65 engines, but use a cosmetic cam cover gasket as its thicker then the paper and the oil jet Screw does not like being blocked as you removed material from both the cam cover and the block

using the worn flywheel washers might help with it in the side clearance

its a 35 thousand dollar machine in todays market but no knowing what you did to it would give you anything for it as its a maybe it will work
Good stuff John,

What caused the crack was the repair drain plug.. I don't think crack will migrate any more.. Only removed about 0.025" Less than 1/2 a thread. I can high temp epoxy it if the crack returns.. After the inner primary fiasco, I don't want to weld on the cases.. The rear cylinder head needs a fin. Maybe leave that alone?

I solder the end shut on the tube.. That way it can be returned to stock easily..

I'm not going to cut between the 2 cases, That cleaned up well enough to reseal.. I am going to trim the cylinder bases in the case as I like max contact in the area and it's pretty dinged up. May try a mill file first.
 
  #142  
Old 03-08-2024, 02:05 PM
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We use this on paper base gaskets 20 years never see leaking - and I have 20 set of tin cometic and I spray them if I use them


 
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  #143  
Old 03-08-2024, 11:32 PM
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Not a lot of Pics of layout and making a inner cam bearing install tool. I have the Jims Evo but needed the outer plate.



 
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  #144  
Old 03-08-2024, 11:34 PM
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Adapt my crankcase holding plate to handle 65 pan case..



 
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  #145  
Old 03-08-2024, 11:40 PM
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Looks like it will be worthwhile to skim the cylinder bases in the case.. Bronze colored some of the deep scratches so they'd show up.. Could take 0.015" to clean up.. With the edges of the cylinders marking the case top, does that mean the cylinders came loose?




 
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  #146  
Old 03-09-2024, 10:08 PM
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Here is what the plate was for.. Use a level to get close then tap it in in Y.. Use a machinist jack to get surface level in X. Jst was only about 0.005" from the lowest point found between studs on the X axis.








 
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  #147  
Old 03-10-2024, 07:49 AM
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It’s not a Bugatti Chiron - its a farm tractor - carefull what you bring into the space age
 
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  #148  
Old 03-19-2024, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by eighteight
Same thing I say when people scoff at the old Dixie /Superior stuff
I expect Mid USA bought some of Harry`s stuff

Lot of bikes built with those parts over the years.


Originally Posted by Max Headflow
AT 80 bucks, it's a bargain.. The problem is how long will the BO last..
Been using those rods in builds including big inchers with zero issue for a long time, they are honestly as good or better than S&S. Plus side is they are so close to stock weight wise you can get away without a total rebalance which is mandatory with S&S rods. I’ll snap up a couple sets when I find the bargain like that.
 
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Old 03-19-2024, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
I cleaned up the cam case gasket surface. Only took off about 5-6 thou.. You can kind of see where the high and low spots were, right next to each other. the rest of the case was in the middle. You can still see some of dings in the surface.





When I had access I’ve hand lapped those surface on a 2’ x 2’ cast iron precision lapping plate, found it buried and neglected at tho old car plant. Have a nice 10” l do heads on. My cheesy 3-1 combo machine isn’t up to real machining. Will miss machine shop on job now I’m retired.
 
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  #150  
Old 03-21-2024, 01:24 AM
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Man I wish I had your skill set. I'm thinking that by the time you are done, you will not need any gaskets because the surfaces will be so perfectly mated. My 67 has no exhaust port gaskets or cylinder head gaskets. That was stock form the factory, Can't imagine that happening today tho.
 
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