Now for the stuff that needs work..

The motor seem to have been run for some time with the poor bore job on the cylinders. Needs overbore and new pistons. The hold inside was coated with black crap.

Everything is loose except the rod bearing seems reasonable.. Upper bushes are at 0.002" tho. Probably have it rebuilt.

The breaker drive and gen idler shafts and bushings have about 0.0035 clearance. Pinion in cam plate is about 0.002. Cam bush is about 0.004"

Heads still look to have the stock bronze seats. I suspect that these should replaced with upgraded seat.

Guide clearance is about 0.006 on the intakes and 0.008 on the exhausts. Both the valve stems and guides are worn.

Most of the fastenters need replace. ANy one know when HD switched from 1/4-24 to 1/4-20. The oil pump studs were 1/4-24 but the nuts appeared cross threaded. Should I go with studs or just go to bolts?

Gasket surfaces are pretty dinged up. I'll probably recut the cylinder base surface in the case, Trim the cam case. Oil pump and tappet block surfaces look OK,

The cases were glued together with crappy silicone and copper spray gasket sealer. But the time I drove the studs out the case split and pulled apart. Crankcase has some cylinder studs that were rusty and others covered with oil..

 

If the lower unit is good and tight the front rod has no twist in it - then evo wrist pin is .792 and not .791 like a shovel hone the pistons to fit not uncommon to see that with a good lower end - ride it for the season and make sure you are keeping it instead of getting in a bigger hole

 

Johnjzjz, never thought of that, good suggestion. But is there a weight difference between the EVO and shovel wrist pins?

Paul

 

This is good stuff. Couple things tho..

I need to make sure that the pistons I use have either standard circlips or Spirolocks.

At the depth I'm into this motor, why not do the crank?

When done, I've been through the motor/trany/primary. Wheels and brakes have been rebuilt. New tires. Bike will get new wiring, hardwear, About the only thing I haven been through is the front forks, and swingarm bearings.. It needs new valve guides, valves, valve springs, valve seats. For sure, this bike was worked on by a complete novice.

 

pistons always weigh different even in the same company and size - while one could agree the rear rod is sometimes 100s of grams different in weight then the front - and you dont feel that for the most part

having said that

couple grams in piston weight difference with in a static balance - will and does rotate the flywheel on the stand from standing still at all 4 locations — but — unlike a V8 american engine oil weight is added to the balance factor and they are balanced at 50 percent - Harley and indian both never put that — oil weight in the mix as a thing - and yes]ah its in the mix

the wheels are so heavy it gets eaten up by the volume - changing pistons you could add 20 to 30 gram weight difference in the reciprocating weight of the factor that its running on — and it does nothing <<<. Most times sure at some point you can affect the comfort spot in riding it

it works our this way the heavier you make a top end the driving range comfort RPM is lowered - the lighter you make the top parts the higher the comfort ( smoothest its going to be ) is felt - give or take 300 to 400 RPMS swing

 

i have taken good running machines to the screws just because — i get it - mid usa rods the import ones have stamped on the RPLS then the year of use i have installed 1000 sets maybe and we check them never found even one set of of wack - they are built in japan all of it - heat cycles eat original rods at some point and the races come loose - cheaper to just a buy the right set and the over all weight is almost exactly the same

i stopped using S&S rods 25 years ago the weight difference has you drilling many holes at the top of the wheels around the crank pin - not the spot i like drilling but its a lumber truck so it does not matter

 

Same thing I say when people scoff at the old Dixie /Superior stuff
I expect Mid USA bought some of Harry`s stuff

Lot of bikes built with those parts over the years.

 

AT 80 bucks, it's a bargain.. The problem is how long will the BO last..

 

IMO more miles than a vintage bike will ever travel

 

I plan on running the case through the mill and skimming maybe 0.005" of the surface to make it flat.

On order to to that I need to pull the cover dowel pins. I heated the case slowly to about 200F on a propane stove. I used 5c collet block and 3/8 hex collet with part from a collet stop to attach to a slide hammer.

I also pulled the timing gear shift and generator gear drive shaft. I made a special collet out of 3/4 hex 6061 and split it. To clamp, I used vice grips.
The bushings in the gears and were pretty worn.. The timing shaft was worn about 0.0015 in spots..