Resurrecting the 65.
#121
Now for the stuff that needs work..
The motor seem to have been run for some time with the poor bore job on the cylinders. Needs overbore and new pistons. The hold inside was coated with black crap.
Everything is loose except the rod bearing seems reasonable.. Upper bushes are at 0.002" tho. Probably have it rebuilt.
The breaker drive and gen idler shafts and bushings have about 0.0035 clearance. Pinion in cam plate is about 0.002. Cam bush is about 0.004"
Heads still look to have the stock bronze seats. I suspect that these should replaced with upgraded seat.
Guide clearance is about 0.006 on the intakes and 0.008 on the exhausts. Both the valve stems and guides are worn.
Most of the fastenters need replace. ANy one know when HD switched from 1/4-24 to 1/4-20. The oil pump studs were 1/4-24 but the nuts appeared cross threaded. Should I go with studs or just go to bolts?
Gasket surfaces are pretty dinged up. I'll probably recut the cylinder base surface in the case, Trim the cam case. Oil pump and tappet block surfaces look OK,
The cases were glued together with crappy silicone and copper spray gasket sealer. But the time I drove the studs out the case split and pulled apart. Crankcase has some cylinder studs that were rusty and others covered with oil..
The motor seem to have been run for some time with the poor bore job on the cylinders. Needs overbore and new pistons. The hold inside was coated with black crap.
Everything is loose except the rod bearing seems reasonable.. Upper bushes are at 0.002" tho. Probably have it rebuilt.
The breaker drive and gen idler shafts and bushings have about 0.0035 clearance. Pinion in cam plate is about 0.002. Cam bush is about 0.004"
Heads still look to have the stock bronze seats. I suspect that these should replaced with upgraded seat.
Guide clearance is about 0.006 on the intakes and 0.008 on the exhausts. Both the valve stems and guides are worn.
Most of the fastenters need replace. ANy one know when HD switched from 1/4-24 to 1/4-20. The oil pump studs were 1/4-24 but the nuts appeared cross threaded. Should I go with studs or just go to bolts?
Gasket surfaces are pretty dinged up. I'll probably recut the cylinder base surface in the case, Trim the cam case. Oil pump and tappet block surfaces look OK,
The cases were glued together with crappy silicone and copper spray gasket sealer. But the time I drove the studs out the case split and pulled apart. Crankcase has some cylinder studs that were rusty and others covered with oil..
#122
If the lower unit is good and tight the front rod has no twist in it - then evo wrist pin is .792 and not .791 like a shovel hone the pistons to fit not uncommon to see that with a good lower end - ride it for the season and make sure you are keeping it instead of getting in a bigger hole
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (02-15-2024)
#123
#124
If the lower unit is good and tight the front rod has no twist in it - then evo wrist pin is .792 and not .791 like a shovel hone the pistons to fit not uncommon to see that with a good lower end - ride it for the season and make sure you are keeping it instead of getting in a bigger hole
I need to make sure that the pistons I use have either standard circlips or Spirolocks.
At the depth I'm into this motor, why not do the crank?
When done, I've been through the motor/trany/primary. Wheels and brakes have been rebuilt. New tires. Bike will get new wiring, hardwear, About the only thing I haven been through is the front forks, and swingarm bearings.. It needs new valve guides, valves, valve springs, valve seats. For sure, this bike was worked on by a complete novice.
The following users liked this post:
pgreer (02-16-2024)
#125
having said that
couple grams in piston weight difference with in a static balance - will and does rotate the flywheel on the stand from standing still at all 4 locations — but — unlike a V8 american engine oil weight is added to the balance factor and they are balanced at 50 percent - Harley and indian both never put that — oil weight in the mix as a thing - and yes]ah its in the mix
the wheels are so heavy it gets eaten up by the volume - changing pistons you could add 20 to 30 gram weight difference in the reciprocating weight of the factor that its running on — and it does nothing <<<. Most times sure at some point you can affect the comfort spot in riding it
it works our this way the heavier you make a top end the driving range comfort RPM is lowered - the lighter you make the top parts the higher the comfort ( smoothest its going to be ) is felt - give or take 300 to 400 RPMS swing
#126
This is good stuff. Couple things tho..
I need to make sure that the pistons I use have either standard circlips or Spirolocks.
At the depth I'm into this motor, why not do the crank?
When done, I've been through the motor/trany/primary. Wheels and brakes have been rebuilt. New tires. Bike will get new wiring, hardwear, About the only thing I haven been through is the front forks, and swingarm bearings.. It needs new valve guides, valves, valve springs, valve seats. For sure, this bike was worked on by a complete novice.
I need to make sure that the pistons I use have either standard circlips or Spirolocks.
At the depth I'm into this motor, why not do the crank?
When done, I've been through the motor/trany/primary. Wheels and brakes have been rebuilt. New tires. Bike will get new wiring, hardwear, About the only thing I haven been through is the front forks, and swingarm bearings.. It needs new valve guides, valves, valve springs, valve seats. For sure, this bike was worked on by a complete novice.
i stopped using S&S rods 25 years ago the weight difference has you drilling many holes at the top of the wheels around the crank pin - not the spot i like drilling but its a lumber truck so it does not matter
The following 4 users liked this post by johnjzjz:
#127
I expect Mid USA bought some of Harry`s stuff
Lot of bikes built with those parts over the years.
Last edited by eighteight; 02-20-2024 at 10:21 AM.
#128
#129
#130
I plan on running the case through the mill and skimming maybe 0.005" of the surface to make it flat.
On order to to that I need to pull the cover dowel pins. I heated the case slowly to about 200F on a propane stove. I used 5c collet block and 3/8 hex collet with part from a collet stop to attach to a slide hammer.
I also pulled the timing gear shift and generator gear drive shaft. I made a special collet out of 3/4 hex 6061 and split it. To clamp, I used vice grips.
The bushings in the gears and were pretty worn.. The timing shaft was worn about 0.0015 in spots..
On order to to that I need to pull the cover dowel pins. I heated the case slowly to about 200F on a propane stove. I used 5c collet block and 3/8 hex collet with part from a collet stop to attach to a slide hammer.
I also pulled the timing gear shift and generator gear drive shaft. I made a special collet out of 3/4 hex 6061 and split it. To clamp, I used vice grips.
The bushings in the gears and were pretty worn.. The timing shaft was worn about 0.0015 in spots..