I wanted it that way because the pin end was close to the pipe and depending on the adjustment I was concerned it would hit. Im not sure where I want the pedal when its in the rest position which will determine the travel I can have.
OEM pin is shorter then the colony and adjusting the length equal between the rod ends is a thing with the pin that way - but you have all the time in the world so
OEM pin is shorter then the colony and adjusting the length equal between the rod ends is a thing with the pin that way - but you have all the time in the world so
I will flip the pin and see once I've made my final adjustments.
What are the odds I'll find those cups for the ends of the cables?
This is the last sub-assembly I have to go through that had been rebuilt already. Just like the engine bottom end had been done, I was glad and very lucky I went through it again or I would've had a failure. The carb body needs to be painted black so I had to take it apart but I found the 4 screws that held the choke and throttle plate in were not staked, they just unscrewed like any other screw would which is a disaster waiting to happen. The other thing I found before taking it apart is the slop in the throttle shaft. Bushings and shaft are new so they must've reamed them too large, I have new bushings here so no big deal.
The shaft that came out and the new shaft I have are both .249" OD, the manual specifies .250" for the ID of the bushing which makes sense putting me at a thou clearance. The manual doesn't specifically say a thou though. I'll start at that and see how it feels, currently the ID of the bushings are .257", might as well have a hole in the side of the carb with that much clearance.
Made sense to do these at the same time, one goes silver (top left) the rest are black. Top left is pre 1940 four line Linkert with the long version of their name before shortening it to L&L.
Didn't get much done today, life got in the way but as long as I keep working on it it'll get done.
Generator is in for good with the correct end cap screws - fillister head slot in cad.
oem speedo cable I had cad plated, extra long top stud for cable clip. The clip is also oem replated.
oem clip and nut with some signs of age
oem clutch rod for rocker clutch at the top of the pic. Repop beside it. Subtle differences but very obvious when side by side.
oem rod installed
oem warning lamp lens with some life experience. It's glass, not sure what the repops look like but I'll bet its different even if they make them out of glass.
Had a lengthy honey-do list this weekend but still managed to work on this and my FX.
I shortened the outer cable to length but still waiting on the ferrules, I'll finish the install once I have those.
I changed the flag terminals to eyelets for the cutout relay and added black shrink tubing for that guy at the red light that might yell out "hey where's the vinylite insulation on the terminals?" The black shrink tube gives the right visual when you're not there on your knees squinting to see the details.
Proper look for the oil pressure terminal rather than an eyelet. Repop switch but Im not inclined to buy a used 75 year old switch for any price. Well, maybe $5.
Repop cutout relay, I haven't put any effort into finding a used oem one but I will look into it. I dont like the zinc plating and the screws are wrong. It'll do for now but some of the small details will get fixed here and there. The wiring is routed correctly though with bent down eyelets
oem brake lever, clamp and cable holder. Rocker clutch adjusted.
02-27-2023 | 03:48 PM
