Small progress tonight. Tomorrow I'll do more electrical. I ordered a set of Jim lifters so once they come in I'll finish up that side of the engine, carb, foot board etc.
Correct PH-6 for 1948, foam gasket (I see a lot have the rubber moulded one they offer today), correct frosted glass vs white for earlier bikes and proper wire retainer. After more reading I discovered the bikes up to 42 had the same type of tube for the wire but it was longer and ended under the forks and passed through an angled pierced hole in the fender. Like someone used an ice pick and the wire just went through that rather than an insulated terminal like in 48. Less caveman like as they got newer.
48 had an offset hole with pigtail for the light rather than the earlier lights that had a central post with a screw attaching a wire to the light. So, the fender holes are in different positions depending on the year of the fender or none at all between 42-46.
I am constantly amazed at the level of detail you guys are able to dedicate to a build. I don't know that I have the mental capacity right now to devote that kind of effort, but I can definitely appreciate it!
If I may show my ignorance, please humor me for a post or two...
I dream of owning one of these beauties one day, and I see prices ALL over the map for them, sometimes two or three times what I see other bikes in visually similar "restored" condition. I know there can be a significant cost difference when you opt for OEM or "correct" parts, and the small bits will cost you the most in most cases. At least that has been my experience prior. I don't assume that I could tell the difference between OEM or aftermarket for just about anything you posted in this thread, so again, I'm admitting my own ignorance on this one.
My question is, does this level of detail explain the vast difference in a bike's pricing? Sometimes two or three times as much? I've got a UL or WL taste with a twin-cam wallet right now, but this thread has caused me to ask that question numerous times. I just thought I'd vocalize it for perhaps some clarity. As always, any info is greatly appreciated.
The prices may not be indicative of a bike being correct because there are people out there that believe their bike is correct with no aftermarket parts. You have to really know what you're looking at which takes a lot of reading, following threads here and other similar sites and ask questions like you are right now. If you're serious about getting a bike get this 3rd edition 2 book set and start reading, you'll learn a lot! The book isn't perfect, there are some small errors and a few omissions but its an incredible wealth of knowledge and considered the book to go by.
As far as buying goes I like basket cases, just a personal preference because I want to go through them top to bottom and they are typically less expensive up front. If you know what you're looking at you'll quickly know whats missing and what you're up against. If you're handy and you're in no rush then you can slowly plug away at it collecting bits and pieces here and there and also make the decision how correct you want it to be.
I'll give you some examples of parts prices. That front fender light in my post above cost me about $750 then I had the cover repaired and re-chromed. Reproduction it's $120 but its slightly different when you know what to look for. Tank badges for the bike on palmers cover, a painted right side specifically (right is harder to find than a left), well over a grand with blemishes / scratches. Reproduction chrome $200 for a pair. Fenders, $2800 for a front oem with dents or $250 for a new reproduction and some of them are very nice copies! Rear fenders oem are more than a front, rear reproduction are poor and $250.
A U model bike is a knucklehead bike minus the engine so every part is knuckle money for a bike thats not worth knuckle money. They didn't make a lot of U models and they got bobbed and scrapped so hard to find but they do come up, just keep looking. Off topic slightly but Mach IV motors on ebay just cut up a complete 37 ULH, the parts are on ebay right now and its so sad. He broke the bike down as far as possible, even the front forks are taken apart and sold in pieces under different listings. Fenders, tanks, a really nice frame, trans, etc, everything. He does that a lot ,pans, shovels, flat heads and so on. If you go to ebay and search for "knucklehead fender" you'll find him then look at his store link and you'll get a better idea of parts prices.
My 41 UH came through word of mouth because I asked around. Get the Palmer book, start reading and start making connections.
Pick a bike one not a bunch of maybe - WL would be the cheapest then go to the wheels of time in the Carolina’s - take many pictures spend a hour looking at one or two examples — they when you ask what ones are totally real - spend an hour studying every small detail - then go look at the bike you were told is real
getting had can happen by some one who really does not know or some one that does
Much appreciated! I definitely have time to do research. I'll check out Palmer's book(s). I've heard them referenced in the past, but now I have a cover to go by!
Thanks for the info to my question and for continuing with the rebuild. I'm learning a lot, as I'm sure many others are as well.
12-31-2022 | 05:56 PM
