Before I stick my foot in my mouth too badly I need to verify the thread pitch is the same on the terminals.

 

Factory tank badges back from chrome and ready for paint.

 

Used the repop bucket only. The terminal and screw sizes were not right compared to original but everything transferred from the oem bucket.

 

Replaced and sized all of the bushings, everything turns nicely. End play check and set tomorrow then heads.

 

I see a number
on the cam face. What make did you go to for the EL?

 

Looking good!

Quick question. Is that aluminum for the cylinders and block that clean or is it coated/painted? If it's just that clean, would you care to share how you got it that way?

Also, as you're buckling everything up, perhaps you might care to share any tips or tricks you might have to prevent leaks with these older engines/transmissions/primaries?

Thanks for taking the time to document the project!

 

The cam covers pinion bushing is it timed correct or is that just the picture

 

Im running a J cam and its really a 74" with a 7.5:1 compression ratio. The J cam intake closes later than stock so less charge is trapped in the cylinder. Should be good for a kick only.

I have a cleaner that would make the aluminum look bright but the finish doesn't last like any bare cast aluminum parts so I painted it.
I use Ford diesel engine grey silicone. Its probably equal to yamabond, sticks great, has anti-foam agents so the oil doesn't aerate and I get a good deal on it. The crank has a lip seal now, cometic head gaskets and an adhesive like hi-tack on the other gaskets. I dont expect it to be dry like a TWINKIE but it shouldn't gush oil either. I ran a primary belt in my 62 but Im thinking chain in this one and paying attention to how much oil I let onto the chain to control how much ends up under it when its parked. A rear o-ring chain solves the goop on the wheel. The transmission has an updated final drive gear with a lip seal and an o-ring to try and keep the oil inside but again I dont expect it to be perfect but we'll see!

Must be the pic, window in the bushing lines up with the oil feed hole. When did they go from the side oiling that only lubes things once per revolution to an end oilier thats constant? And what changes did they make in the end oil engines to deal with the constant oiling?

 

1973 one year after AMF took control totally

now if you think about the size of the circle and the speed it’s Turing it only became an issue hot at idle - reason the iron pump was adjustable and set at distance many we 1/2 turn more and alike - hydraulic lifters become the issue not the engine oiling

1973 saw the bottom block oil feed fitting to the rear head get a .055 hole to fire hose the oil up and limit it the volume at the same time

one of the guys i hung in his shop as a kid - would bring a circle around the pinion end making the hole a troft

 

Face of the horn was zinc plated, needed to be black.



Harness from left bar controls run but Im out of flag terminals




Finished horn with chrome plated brass cover and proper spring plate



Spring plate lets the horn vibrate, scared the crap out of my dog when I tested it.




Front fender light wire terminal and horn behind lower bracket with correct hardware.



Upper horn hardware not so much fun with thick fingers