Could use a little input on the hardware arrangement for the rear fender and crash bar. The parts book doesn't show a full exploded view that would include whats needed to add the crash bar.

This is how I think it should be where the large spacer goes under the bar. There are thinner than the standard nuts below the spacers. Thoughts?




I think it should have flat washers and lock washers under those two nuts. It all fits nicely but doesn't mean I got it right.




And a big whoops here! Re and re-ing that fender again sucked more than the first time.










Looking like a bike! I don't want to run the OEM chrome light bucket (prefer black) and stripping it would be a waste and potentially ruin the delco lettering so I'm going to run a black repop and keep the factory one in a box on the shelf.

 

I sighed out loud when I saw the picture with the steering damper, not installed!??!?!?!

We all have done it, hopefully only once in a lifetime.

 

Wont happen ever again!

 

I mixed and matched parts, used the black repop housing only and transferred an original lens, the bezel and seal. The repop seal is yellow and you can see it through the glass and the rivets are larger on the repop bezel.

I believe the rivets in my original bezel should be parkerized which were installed after the ring would've been chromed.

 

Nice! Did they use philips head screws on the housing in 1948, or are you going to paint those?

 

Filister screws in straight screw driver park color - that assembly they did a great job on but the screws are from a lamp

 

This is the light that came with the bike, the nut and washer was cad and this nut came from the repop light. I planned to transfer the slot screws assuming the thread is the same.

 

I've never gone through a horn before and Im happy to admit I dont know how they work - yet. I see a set of points and two set screws that would affect settings somehow. I was told the horn made noise but that didn't inspire a lot of confidence so I opened it up. Ill see how successful I am at making it work and look as it should.

Im guessing the electromagnet pulls the plate down and the points open releasing the plate and then it does it again. How that results in a honking noise I dont understand.

 

You have the action figured out. The magnet moving back and forth moves the diaphragm just like a speaker playing only one note.

 

I picked up this horn because if it turned out to be a fail I could use it on a bobber build Im doing OR use it for internal parts for my original horn.

Have a look and ask yourself if buying a clapped out horn that says untested in the ebay description makes sense at $500 when compared to this one for less than $200.

Transfer the original grill in the pic, paint the face of the horn black when the grill is off and put in cad plated carriage bolts.






The 5 raised ribs are thicker than the original on the left, the 3 wells around the carriage bolts are different and the emblem is very close but not quite there. This is a very good reproduction which I'll test later to see how it sounds and with the small changes I mentioned earlier I can't see how anyone could point it out as being repop when its on the bike.