They like red lipstick and nail polish so why not motorcycles.

 

Put a few more pieces on, Starting engine assembly this weekend.




I have an original front shock but its baffed as to be expected. The one on it is repop which is better than a junk original.







Repop shock came with all hardware and bushings to mount it but I stuck with the original stuff for that.



The new hardware is very very nice, too nice actually but the hex isn't as thick or square cut as an original. Not sure how they miss small details like that but get others right. Maybe the equipment making the hex makes it a certain way and thats life, can't alter it without going to great lengths?


Original eye bolt is somehow fatter but the nut fits both.



Says monroe on the new one but the lettering and what it actually says on the shock is not even close to oem.




No idea what the purpose of those tabs on the shock body are for just yet.

 

Bottom end together, end play set etc etc.






This may cause controversy, I have a set of higher volume oil pump drive gears that changes the ratio to the pump. The correct pump has the rotor in the outer housing that increases pressure or volume or both, need to read about that again but the trend is to make this non-functional. There's a replacement separator plate that blocks passages to it and the rotor gets lobbed into the woods, so I plan to address that but Im wondering if I even need the block off plate? The oil goes into the rotor chamber, the rotor does its thing and moves it along through a hole back to the pump body. If the rotor is gone but the stock plate is still there then logic says the chamber would fill with oil and find its way through the hole and continue on its way as usual no? Finding the block off plate is a potential problem thats why Im wondering.

 

I think I just figured out a possible problem without the block off plate. The rotor drive goes through the plate into the pump housing where the main pump gears are. With that hole open and no gear drive through it, the pump would have an internal leak and possibly just recirculate. Thats my guess.

 

Did more investigating. Palmer said the rotor was eliminated, block off plate installed and a different check valve spring was used on the last seventy five 1948 models and continued on as a 1949 pump. Over-oiling was the concern but how that rotor increases oil volume is a mystery, it just doesn't add up when you look at it. The oil passes through the hole in the back of the rotor then escapes past that disc in the side and follows the groove that lines up with another hole in the side of the housing it spins in. Spinning or not the oil would travel through and around the groove and out the hole in the housing. I can see an increase in pressure because of a restriction past that disc but how that thing can over-oil doesn't make sense, its not a vane pump, its not a pump at all. Why did they change the check valve spring back to the previous design? Or did the rotor really just do nothing and it was a waste of money so they omitted it and it was the check valve spring that solved the problem?

Edit: how Palmer explained it was misleading and implied the rotor was removed because of over-oiling.

 

The AMCA forum makes more sense. The rotor was used to reduce oil pressure at higher rpm to prevent over-oiling on a knucklehead. It was overwhelming the top end. The panhead wouldn't have that issue with the rocker cover and oil return setup so it was eliminated to increase oil to the top end. Im running a slightly higher volume pump ratio so with any luck the oil light will stay off at idle.

 

You have a 24 and a 25 tooth gear in the picture you cant switch them

the rotor was also slated according to some for removal - that is not true as i know it to be - we never use the block off instead

why did you not replace the right case cam bushing its a 74 year old engine

 

It's a 2 gear set not just the one gear beside the original, it just showed the difference side by side. The new black helical gear on the pinion shaft is also a different size than stock and they mesh nicely.

If you look back to the beginning of the thread you'll see that bushing looks clean and shiny. The acid cleaner and hot water I used on the cases reacted with the bushing turning it a bit green on the face.

 

My 49 EL uses the block off plate (one year only I believe cuz in '50 they changed the outer pump cover). I think I have an extra if you would like me to check.

 

Yes please check. I would prefer to block it off and leave the rotor out.

Thank you!