That looks nice, should improve stopping power by a lot. Where did you find it?
As far as the actuating arm, you might as well cut and re-drill the arm that came with it. You'd still have to drill a new hole in the original arm to match where the rod to the other arm goes.
That looks nice, should improve stopping power by a lot. Where did you find it?
As far as the actuating arm, you might as well cut and re-drill the arm that came with it. You'd still have to drill a new hole in the original arm to match where the rod to the other arm goes.
Taiwan Tedd along with the 41 oil tank. Some of the repop stuff is getting good enough to consider when the real stuff is over-priced 75 year old junk. I wanted better front brakes just because and with the side car, although it has a brake of its own, it would still benefit from better stopping power. Im thinking the other two bikes will get the same upgrade.
Good idea on the repop lever. I can parkerize it again after I modify it.
Working on the bottom end clearances and Im lucky I took it apart to check things out. The engine was ready for the barrels and top end was my understanding but what I found would've been a disaster had I ran the engine.
The crank end play was over .020", spec is .012". Rather than the end play being controlled by the crank thrust washers and large thrust surfaces in the cases as it should, they had the cam side bearing spacer sitting proud of the thrust surface. This way crank thrust is now controlled by the end of the roller bearings not the case and on the other side of those roller bearings is a washer and a snap ring. It wouldn't take long for the crank to pop that snap ring out and fill the cam side with a bunch of roller bearings to make things exciting. Once the bearing spacers were below the thrust surfaces my crank end play went up to .065" which I have now set to .009"
With the bearing spacers I can get, the best I can do is .004" on the drive side and .016" on the cam side. I can't find a spec but I dont think its critical unless its too tight or way too loose. The idea is to let the rollers float side to side in the race with no lateral loading. If I can find a spec or someone knows it I can have spacers made to get me there.
the sprocket side sets the over all location and the end play is .012 back and forth - once the sprocket side tightened and then it is extended to use the feeler gage and your cam side bearing is still loose — your done if the cam side bottomed as you have posed then you can feel that rotating the wheels with the feeler gage in place
sure i have seen proud races and we heat and push it in place or replace totally as they might be moving on its own - os are available
now the flywheel tapers are another thing - they are and have been giving me issues as the wheels tapers are stretched and brass tapping the nut the torque goes away - then you re tighten and now the timing on the lock is off and the lock can not be used — this is the reason many use S$S wheels as the nuts have no locks
this causes even more side clearance issues - i believe no spec is available because its a moot measurement
Okay, I'll rephrase and tell you how I understand it and you can tell me if I'm wrong. The crank end play is controlled by the two large thrust surfaces on the inside of both cases and the large washers on the crank faces are what you use to set centering and end play. No sprocket installed, just the crank assy in the cases. That end play with the tool on the left side shaft I get .009" and I'm happy with that, I think .012" is more than needed.
The next thing is the roller bearing side clearance. The small washer that covers the end of the rollers in the races is the next clearance Im after, not roller to race clearance. The ground washer that sits on the end of the rollers is now set below the height of the thrust surface in the cases on both sides. This washer only controls how much side clearance the rollers have as they roll around in the race and the sprocket would have no affect on this. Initially the cam side washer was so thick that it was the first thing to contact the crank thrust washer preventing the thrust washer from contacting the thrust surface in the case. That would end up popping the right side snap ring out and let the rollers fall into the cam side area not to mention other issues when the right side bearing is missing.
What Im wanting to know is how far below the thrust surface should that bearing washer be.
Lets just say its zero to the end of the race and you have .009 at the left side - it then becomes .0045 below the end of the race in the running of the engine and it has a walking oil pump drive gear and spring i do not think does anything BUT to help with movement
cam side is set on the bench - then install a semi fit up and check the left side
i get the thought and i get the caution - but its too simple your mind is in complex things -
state of the art compare to a 1900 idea at the beginning - and they kept it because it worked
Looking for cam suggestions. Compression ratio is 7.5:1 and I want it to be easy to kick like my 54. The 54 a dream to start, stand beside it and push down on the pedal, no drama no sore knee.
Rocker covers look fantastic. You gonna take the chrome off the bottom part that mates with the top of the heads so you get a good seal with the gaskets?
03-29-2022 | 04:53 PM
