Yes, 65 part number, not A. Most high beam indicators were commonly on back side of nacelle.

 

Never seen other than the dircetional signal flashers on the back of the nacelle. But it would make sense. My high beam indicator on my 65 was mounted on the cover. No idea what the other two plugged holes connected with/to (bought that way). Didn't reinstall because I am running the adjustable trees and the hole space (different cover) is dedicated to the damper ****.

 

Yeah so many different ways to place indicators. A lot of guys put "lights on low beam" (usually green) "lights on high beam" (red), and left and right directionals (green). Mine was like that when I got it on both left and right of back of nacelle. . Best thing is you could use any color you want. Looks good on the handlebar cover too.

 

Everyone who suggested loose wire was correct, though not attached wire is more like it. While poking around the voltage regulator found a loose wire that appeared to need to go onto the positive battery terminal. Installed and voila I have lights on the dash and a headlight. WOOHOO!!. The lamps on either side of the headlight work, the turn signals work, the high/low beam works, the horn works and the starter turned the engine over (I have no gas in it). I have checked the fluids and all is well there. Need to get some 90 Rec fuel and give a go this weekend.

Answer to Panz question, the bike was not running or started before I purchased. I added some oil to the cylinder through spark plug hole and kicked it through a few times. Performed "farmer" compression check by placing humb over the spark plug hole to farmer and it was SAT (damned near pulled my thumb into the cylinder). Per the PO the bike was ran 6 years ago, shut down, gas drained and has been sitting since. I have sprayed the Linkert with carb cleaner including the throttle linkage to free up. Surprised to find no return spring on the throttle. Buddy told me to get a spring and run it around the valve cover bolt. Will work on that this weekend as well.

Wish me luck this weekend. I will post video if I get her running.

 

Please do not attempt to put a spring on it. It won't work. It was designed NOT to have a spring. You will understand when you are riding down the road and you will be able to take your hand off the throttle to rest it and the bike just keeps purring along like a kitten.

 

Glad you got it figured out. Really looking forward to the video. Something special about old iron in running condition.

 

Scott, nice bike. Frame appears to be 65–early-68 and both sides of the steering head may have forging ID. R-H side may have hallmark DIF (in a square) and a die number which may be 38 or 39 if it’s a 65 model frame. Let us know what you find.

Left side of the steering head may have forging number 47591-35.
Further down the left side you may find an additional original component identifying number—for example, C1234. The characters may only be about 1/8” so look closely. Some call this ID a security code or an anti-theft number. Similar, but not identical, additional ID numbers may be stamped outside the left fork stop of the lower triple clamp and on the front R-H side of the trans case just below where the lid attaches. Under the trans case may be casting number 34703 65 and perhaps other casting ID.

Stamped on the R-H side of the frame top engine mount may be a date code but you may have to loosen the tank mounts to see it.

Good to hear the BNs match. Depending on what happened, they may be close to the serial number (SN) or miles apart. (On rare occasions the BNs can match the SN.)

On the engine the factory stamped FLH regardless of handshift or footshift. For a handshift model the original paperwork would say FLH while footshift paperwork would have FLHF. And because it’s a 65 model the original paperwork may have said FLHB or FLHFB. The B wasn’t stamped on the engine but it may have been on the paperwork to indicate electric start.

BTW, does the SN comply with the 1960–69 even-odd code? Is it within the accepted range for 1965 production? Are the characters consistent with factory stamping for a 65 Pan?

In your first photo below, the brake hose clamp screw appears to be in the position used for later-67 and later. And I’m interested to learn what forging ID is present. Could you post a close-up of the left axle clip please. Thanks.





In the next picture, does the hole in the forging have a plug/bolt in it?
Eric

 

Speeding BT, thanks for all the info. The bike is tucked away tight for the week so I can access the right side reasonably well but the left side is very difficult. I will bust out again this weekend.

I did find a DIF square on frame tube right at the gas tank on right side. Also found a 38 stamped there. On left side fork stop small numbers starting with "C" did not find numbers on the frame itself. Frame appears to have been painted maybe powder coated.

The BNs and the SN are reasonably close to each other. Serial number does comply with the even-odd code. Not sure what is acceptable for the range is for a 65 but it matches the title. From pictures of other bikes I believe the stamping appears accurate for factory stamping but I do not know if enough to say for certain.

Will get a picture of left axle clip this weekend. On the right side the hole in the forging has a bolt in it. There are 4 numbers on the transmission RH side as you describe. They are not near the number on the left fork stop nor does it begin with a letter.

Will try to get some more info this weekend.

 

You're welcome. DIF indicates Interstate Drop Forge, Milwaukee. At this stage it sounds like it may be an early-65 frame. As I mentioned above, for 1965 steering heads there were at least two die numbers and you have the first of them: 38.

Hole in the lower R-H forging was threaded for 1958–64 and used as one of the mounting points for the toolbox. Forgings used for early-65 frames also had the hole threaded even though 65s didn’t have a toolbox as original. Someone (not H-D) may have put the bolt in that hole just to finish things off.

Additional ID on the left side may be present but is sometimes hard to find if the paint is thick and may be impossible to read if the frame was powdercoated. In the photo below notice two round indents just above an area that is machined flat. Additional ID is D2+++ running downhill but sometimes it goes uphill.





Unusual for the front of the trans to have numbers and no letter. The letter helps indicate the model year and the ID was recorded at the factory and linked to the SN for future reference. Is it possible the first character is a letter? For 1965 trans cases H-D used at least three letters: B, C and D. (B was also used for 63–64 while C was also used for 64 and 66. D was also used for 64, 66 and 67.)

On the fork stop, C is one of the letters consistent with 1965 and it was also used for 64. Another letter for 65 triple clamps was D which was also used for 64, 66 and 67.

Apparently it was normal practice for the three sets of ID (triple clamp, trans and frame) not to match each other and sometimes the letters aren’t even all the same on the one bike.

For 65 Pans, SNs began at 1001 and it appears they ended somewhere in the low-15000s. If you’re not sure how factory characters look for 1965 then you could post a partial photo—for example, 65FLH1+++. But if you’d prefer not to then that’s fine too.
Eric

 

Thease pics should clear up some questions about neutral indicator light. Fron an original '65 Riders Handbook.