Wow, how about a Snickers?

 

My Pan Am Owners Handbook shows the chain adjustment settings.

 

Mine shows how to check the chain deflection but states to see your dealer if it needs adjustment. Maybe they have updated it.

The Pan Am chain adjustment is one of the easiest of the chain drive bikes I’ve owned. My other bike is a Bonnie and I used to remove one slip on which requires removing a passenger peg in order to access the adjusters and axel nut.I figured out some angled combo wrenches and a crows foot saved me that step but it is still more difficult than the Pan Am.

 

Really? Where? Page? Mine says take it to dealer.

Got my bike Monday this week, it came in on Friday last week

 

Congrats on the bike.

The chain deflection measurement is shown on Page 144/145 of the Owner's Manual. It doesn't tell you HOW to adjust it though - just "take it to a dealer".

But....

Loosen right hand side axle nut (36mm socket) No need to remove the circlip first
Adjust both chain adjusters (13mm deep socket or 13mm wrench) the same amount until the chain is back in spec.
Tighten right hand axle nut to 100ft lbs

 

I suppose we can all come up with our own method but since there are no hash marks on the swingarm I'm curious to hear what method folks are using to try to ensure both chain adjusters are adjusted equally.

Thanks!

 

There's a machined surface inside the cutout on the swingarm that the chain/wheel adjuster moves in. You can measure from that to the adjuster on both sides. I use a long jaw vernier calliper, but then I am **** about things like that.

Once you are happy both sides are set the same (and it should be set like that from the factory, or after a dealer service.....but....), then all you need to do is just make sure you move both adjusters the same amount. I do a quarter turn on each and then check the chain tension again.

 

There has to be a bazillion YouTube videos on how to adjust a chain.
Do not trust hash marks on swingarms. Figure out how to determine the wheel is true to the chain and make your own marks. Then you can easily adjust from there.
Pages 145-146 of the manual gives pretty detailed instructions, including Table 43 for center stand or jiffy stand deflection measurements. Figure 59 (page 146) even shows you where to take the measurement.
Not sure what more is needed.

From the service manual:
Front Axle Torque: 100–110 N·m (74–81 ft-lbs)
Front Axle Pinch Screw Torque: 15–20 N·m (11–15 ft-lbs)
Rear axle nut 129–142 N·m (95–105 ft-lbs)

Now I took the time and energy to look that up for you. Anyone who uses this information should shell out the $$ for a service manual subscription.

 

This is the biggest thing I hate about owning a Harley. Jump on here ask for a simple torque spec questions. 5 guys jump on justifying purchase of an obscenely priced book by telling you just buy one..
ANY other bike forum and people just try n help you.. scans,, downloads,, links.. factory teams posting specs etc.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/attachments/pan-america/606222d1631545123-corbin-low-arrived-panamerica-manual.pdf
Manual

 

Didn't the post just before yours give the owner's manual page numbers? He would have gotten that with the bike, no additional purchase necessary.
And, the torque numbers were supplied in that post as well.

I get where a simple question can bring the negative comments. But, when someone makes a comment that "I'm not going to take my bike to the FN dealership to adjust the chain", then one can presume said person knows their way around a bike. So, having a service manual seems to be something someone who does their own work would have. Would you want your dealership doing work without service manuals? Do you think those are free?

Pre-internet, you bought a Clymer manual or something similar. It cost $$ then. Not sure why everyone thinks all information should be free.
I sprung for the cost of the service manual and didn't think anything of it. It is after all copyrighted material.