Hard starting update
#1
Hard starting update
Just in case anyone is interested in the starting issues, here is what 6 hours at the dealer found:
The “I don’t want to go to school today mommy” whine that the starter makes every 5-6 times is not normal, not due to holding the starter button down, not a low battery, not a bad starter. It’s a bad BCM. And guess what?? It’s Backordered. Shocker.
For the tech specs on the issue (as I myself am a wrench head) The starter switch controls off CANBUS. When engaging and the noise happens, there is direct short. Battery voltage goes down to 3v. Yikes. All other times when the bike is starting voltage depth is normal to 11-ish volts.  The current reflash to correct the parasitic load on the battery is not connected to this issue. Also due to variable valve timing there is no such thing as “it’s stuck on the compression stroke“. The motor essentially opens a decompression valve in the motor when starting (via valve timing). Also the starter is not undersized, and a new starter they installed did nothing. One of the cells on my battery was actually dead from shorting, so I’m on my third battery.
Once the BCM comes in I will update the group. Until then I can ride, with an occasional groan on startup.
Pete
The “I don’t want to go to school today mommy” whine that the starter makes every 5-6 times is not normal, not due to holding the starter button down, not a low battery, not a bad starter. It’s a bad BCM. And guess what?? It’s Backordered. Shocker.
For the tech specs on the issue (as I myself am a wrench head) The starter switch controls off CANBUS. When engaging and the noise happens, there is direct short. Battery voltage goes down to 3v. Yikes. All other times when the bike is starting voltage depth is normal to 11-ish volts.  The current reflash to correct the parasitic load on the battery is not connected to this issue. Also due to variable valve timing there is no such thing as “it’s stuck on the compression stroke“. The motor essentially opens a decompression valve in the motor when starting (via valve timing). Also the starter is not undersized, and a new starter they installed did nothing. One of the cells on my battery was actually dead from shorting, so I’m on my third battery.
Once the BCM comes in I will update the group. Until then I can ride, with an occasional groan on startup.
Pete
#6
UPDATE ON STARTING ISSUES:
I just got my bike back and spent over an hour talking with the factory rep that H-D flew in to work on the bike. Before I tell you the cause and fix, please understand that I’m only repeating what I was told. I understand some of you may not agree with the comments I am going to share, but this is HD‘s official stance on this issue. I am a first time H-D owner, but have 25 years experience as a mechanic on euro bikes.
The official cause of the starter whine is due to the high compression/high friction motor, and the engine stopping on a compression stroke. Because of the motor design, the starter clutch will slip when the circumstances are correct. On the second time the bike will fire and start because of the slight bump the starter will do, even if all you got was the ‘whine-o-death’. 
H-D states that the official fix for this issue is to do the following:
1. Take your bike to the dealer.
2. Make sure BCM update 1532 is applied. Note: it is absolutely critical the dealer follows the instructions to apply this update to the letter. This includes making sure AC power is connected to the update connector, and a new battery or completely charged battery is installed and the bike. Failure to do this will create an additional issue.
3. Torque the starter clutch gear to 37 foot pounds.
The rep suggested keeping the bike on a trickle charge between rides. Not totally necessary, but a good idea to keep the battery in top shape.
I asked about several items on correcting this problem such as a higher amp battery, beefier starter wires, or even a higher torque starter. H-D has not sanctioned any of these yet. He said that if the bike fails to start after the second attempt, that H-D will apply other repairs (I think it involves a new battery, but he didn’t elaborate). He said that if the bike fails to start only after the first attempt that H-D feels the bike is within spec.
After the repairs I mentioned above, my bike has not made the starting noise once. The starter sounds noticeably different as well, almost as if it’s cranking faster, which may be due to the clutch slipping less when starting. I can’t say enough about the customer service I have experience with The MoCo. Again I’ve never owned a Harley but they really stand behind their product. In fact the rep gave me a $250 gift card for the inconvenience. Wow!
Hope this post helps some of you out. It’s not the end of the world if you have this issue. And they are working on it. And the clock patch is coming soon as well.
Ride safe Brethren
Pete
I just got my bike back and spent over an hour talking with the factory rep that H-D flew in to work on the bike. Before I tell you the cause and fix, please understand that I’m only repeating what I was told. I understand some of you may not agree with the comments I am going to share, but this is HD‘s official stance on this issue. I am a first time H-D owner, but have 25 years experience as a mechanic on euro bikes.
The official cause of the starter whine is due to the high compression/high friction motor, and the engine stopping on a compression stroke. Because of the motor design, the starter clutch will slip when the circumstances are correct. On the second time the bike will fire and start because of the slight bump the starter will do, even if all you got was the ‘whine-o-death’. 
H-D states that the official fix for this issue is to do the following:
1. Take your bike to the dealer.
2. Make sure BCM update 1532 is applied. Note: it is absolutely critical the dealer follows the instructions to apply this update to the letter. This includes making sure AC power is connected to the update connector, and a new battery or completely charged battery is installed and the bike. Failure to do this will create an additional issue.
3. Torque the starter clutch gear to 37 foot pounds.
The rep suggested keeping the bike on a trickle charge between rides. Not totally necessary, but a good idea to keep the battery in top shape.
I asked about several items on correcting this problem such as a higher amp battery, beefier starter wires, or even a higher torque starter. H-D has not sanctioned any of these yet. He said that if the bike fails to start after the second attempt, that H-D will apply other repairs (I think it involves a new battery, but he didn’t elaborate). He said that if the bike fails to start only after the first attempt that H-D feels the bike is within spec.
After the repairs I mentioned above, my bike has not made the starting noise once. The starter sounds noticeably different as well, almost as if it’s cranking faster, which may be due to the clutch slipping less when starting. I can’t say enough about the customer service I have experience with The MoCo. Again I’ve never owned a Harley but they really stand behind their product. In fact the rep gave me a $250 gift card for the inconvenience. Wow!
Hope this post helps some of you out. It’s not the end of the world if you have this issue. And they are working on it. And the clock patch is coming soon as well.
Ride safe Brethren
Pete
The following 7 users liked this post by BackDraftBikes:
3dognate (08-01-2021),
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GammaRei (08-07-2021),
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#7
UPDATE ON STARTING ISSUES:
I just got my bike back and spent over an hour talking with the factory rep that H-D flew in to work on the bike. Before I tell you the cause and fix, please understand that I’m only repeating what I was told. I understand some of you may not agree with the comments I am going to share, but this is HD‘s official stance on this issue. I am a first time H-D owner, but have 25 years experience as a mechanic on euro bikes.
The official cause of the starter whine is due to the high compression/high friction motor, and the engine stopping on a compression stroke. Because of the motor design, the starter clutch will slip when the circumstances are correct. On the second time the bike will fire and start because of the slight bump the starter will do, even if all you got was the ‘whine-o-death’. 
H-D states that the official fix for this issue is to do the following:
1. Take your bike to the dealer.
2. Make sure BCM update 1532 is applied. Note: it is absolutely critical the dealer follows the instructions to apply this update to the letter. This includes making sure AC power is connected to the update connector, and a new battery or completely charged battery is installed and the bike. Failure to do this will create an additional issue.
3. Torque the starter clutch gear to 37 foot pounds.
The rep suggested keeping the bike on a trickle charge between rides. Not totally necessary, but a good idea to keep the battery in top shape.
I asked about several items on correcting this problem such as a higher amp battery, beefier starter wires, or even a higher torque starter. H-D has not sanctioned any of these yet. He said that if the bike fails to start after the second attempt, that H-D will apply other repairs (I think it involves a new battery, but he didn’t elaborate). He said that if the bike fails to start only after the first attempt that H-D feels the bike is within spec.
After the repairs I mentioned above, my bike has not made the starting noise once. The starter sounds noticeably different as well, almost as if it’s cranking faster, which may be due to the clutch slipping less when starting. I can’t say enough about the customer service I have experience with The MoCo. Again I’ve never owned a Harley but they really stand behind their product. In fact the rep gave me a $250 gift card for the inconvenience. Wow!
Hope this post helps some of you out. It’s not the end of the world if you have this issue. And they are working on it. And the clock patch is coming soon as well.
Ride safe Brethren
Pete
I just got my bike back and spent over an hour talking with the factory rep that H-D flew in to work on the bike. Before I tell you the cause and fix, please understand that I’m only repeating what I was told. I understand some of you may not agree with the comments I am going to share, but this is HD‘s official stance on this issue. I am a first time H-D owner, but have 25 years experience as a mechanic on euro bikes.
The official cause of the starter whine is due to the high compression/high friction motor, and the engine stopping on a compression stroke. Because of the motor design, the starter clutch will slip when the circumstances are correct. On the second time the bike will fire and start because of the slight bump the starter will do, even if all you got was the ‘whine-o-death’. 
H-D states that the official fix for this issue is to do the following:
1. Take your bike to the dealer.
2. Make sure BCM update 1532 is applied. Note: it is absolutely critical the dealer follows the instructions to apply this update to the letter. This includes making sure AC power is connected to the update connector, and a new battery or completely charged battery is installed and the bike. Failure to do this will create an additional issue.
3. Torque the starter clutch gear to 37 foot pounds.
The rep suggested keeping the bike on a trickle charge between rides. Not totally necessary, but a good idea to keep the battery in top shape.
I asked about several items on correcting this problem such as a higher amp battery, beefier starter wires, or even a higher torque starter. H-D has not sanctioned any of these yet. He said that if the bike fails to start after the second attempt, that H-D will apply other repairs (I think it involves a new battery, but he didn’t elaborate). He said that if the bike fails to start only after the first attempt that H-D feels the bike is within spec.
After the repairs I mentioned above, my bike has not made the starting noise once. The starter sounds noticeably different as well, almost as if it’s cranking faster, which may be due to the clutch slipping less when starting. I can’t say enough about the customer service I have experience with The MoCo. Again I’ve never owned a Harley but they really stand behind their product. In fact the rep gave me a $250 gift card for the inconvenience. Wow!
Hope this post helps some of you out. It’s not the end of the world if you have this issue. And they are working on it. And the clock patch is coming soon as well.
Ride safe Brethren
Pete
Then theres the right hand control module
A bad BCM
Starter replacement
Software hot patches
Etc
I love my bike still but I don't love multiple dealerships scratching their heads at every single question I have. Including the master techs
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#8
Interesting comment on the starter clutch. Harley's including cars have what you call a sprag clutch. 10 speed bikes do to. Bikes have paws driven out by a wire circle spring. Harley's had roller pins driven by rectangle shaped coil springs.
There are ramps inside the body of the starter hub that attaches and drives the gear. When starter motor spins thru the reduction gears planetary, it spins and centrifugal force rolls the rollers up to a shoulder and this locks the sprag clutch and turns gas motor.
Normally we here gas motor running and soon learn what it takes to time getting off start button. If you get off too quick, FI and electronic controls usually makes for a longer second crank to get motor going. (It floods a little from first false start) Be sure to stay on button till it starts. first crank..a little longer then most cars with more cylinders and shorter strokes.
Now if motor starts, and you still stay on start button, gas motor runs faster then starter and spins starter gear around off the drive ramps and they are no longer connected to election drive. It's just spinning at what ever it would run under no load.
If it wasn't designed like that, gas motor would spin starter too fast and armature would fly apart inside and destroy itself.
My thoughts.
There are ramps inside the body of the starter hub that attaches and drives the gear. When starter motor spins thru the reduction gears planetary, it spins and centrifugal force rolls the rollers up to a shoulder and this locks the sprag clutch and turns gas motor.
Normally we here gas motor running and soon learn what it takes to time getting off start button. If you get off too quick, FI and electronic controls usually makes for a longer second crank to get motor going. (It floods a little from first false start) Be sure to stay on button till it starts. first crank..a little longer then most cars with more cylinders and shorter strokes.
Now if motor starts, and you still stay on start button, gas motor runs faster then starter and spins starter gear around off the drive ramps and they are no longer connected to election drive. It's just spinning at what ever it would run under no load.
If it wasn't designed like that, gas motor would spin starter too fast and armature would fly apart inside and destroy itself.
My thoughts.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 08-02-2021 at 05:10 AM.
#9
Big Mike, you beat me to it. I also wanted to say thanks to all those who are helping to find the initial glitches with a new product. Having to go through all the inconveniences with having problems and waiting for them to be diagnosed and fixed is a real test of your patience. Those folks need to be congratulated by us. It isn't the easiest thing to have to do. GOOD ON ALL of you for helping the rest of us!