What did you do to your Pan America today?
#731
I got the Denali D4 driving lights and T3 run/brake/turn rears installed using an early Alpha test version of the ezCAN from Hex Innovations (also known as the Denali CANSMART)
I have also run the wiring for the Denali Soundbomb airhorn, but not mounted it as I am waiting for the PanAmerica specific mounting bracket from Denali. It works great though.
Everything works perfectly and the D4s and T3s are super bright. So bright in fact that I need to turn them down from full brightness during the day.
The ezCAN give lots of extra functionality to the lighting:
D4 driving lights - ability to dim the lights to different settings. So I have different settings for high and low beam during the day and at night.
No additional handlebar switches needed. The lights are synched with the bike's standard high and low beam.
Lights strobe on "flash to pass" (3 presses on the high beam flash). This is GREAT for making cars see you at junctions and when lane splitting
Lights turn off when turn signals are activated so other people can see the turn signal
Lights will flash alternately with hazard flash
Lights will strobe with a press of the horn
T3 run/brake/turn lights (I currently have these set up as run/brake only. I will configure them as additional turn signals in the future)
Ability to set the dim % for run and stop. These are super bright, so I currently have the run set to 20% and the stop to 100%
Brake light can be set to flash on stop - either continuous flash or "California legal" flash then go solid
Brake light can be set to come on and flash on heavy engine braking (i.e. no brake pedal/lever) or emergency braking
All in all I am very happy with this setup. I'll need to play around a bit to decide on brightness settings and stuff and to make sure the lights are aligned properly. The D4s are really, really bright and I am actually pretty pleased I went with them rather than the much bigger D7 pods.
A couple of crappy videos are below - it's difficult to film the bike and operate the controls at the same time. You can't really see how bright these are as it was super bright day and what appears to be flickering is actually caused by a mismatch between the phone's capture rate and the light's refresh rates. The lights are solid on when viewed by humans with no flickering. The video of the rears shows the run light set to 10% brightness and the flash on brake set to 100%. The video of the front lights show (IIRC), the daytime low beam set to 30% and the high beam to 100%
https://youtube.com/shorts/v92-AbzhGU8?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/XQ4R54LqWQ4?feature=share
I have also run the wiring for the Denali Soundbomb airhorn, but not mounted it as I am waiting for the PanAmerica specific mounting bracket from Denali. It works great though.
Everything works perfectly and the D4s and T3s are super bright. So bright in fact that I need to turn them down from full brightness during the day.
The ezCAN give lots of extra functionality to the lighting:
D4 driving lights - ability to dim the lights to different settings. So I have different settings for high and low beam during the day and at night.
No additional handlebar switches needed. The lights are synched with the bike's standard high and low beam.
Lights strobe on "flash to pass" (3 presses on the high beam flash). This is GREAT for making cars see you at junctions and when lane splitting
Lights turn off when turn signals are activated so other people can see the turn signal
Lights will flash alternately with hazard flash
Lights will strobe with a press of the horn
T3 run/brake/turn lights (I currently have these set up as run/brake only. I will configure them as additional turn signals in the future)
Ability to set the dim % for run and stop. These are super bright, so I currently have the run set to 20% and the stop to 100%
Brake light can be set to flash on stop - either continuous flash or "California legal" flash then go solid
Brake light can be set to come on and flash on heavy engine braking (i.e. no brake pedal/lever) or emergency braking
All in all I am very happy with this setup. I'll need to play around a bit to decide on brightness settings and stuff and to make sure the lights are aligned properly. The D4s are really, really bright and I am actually pretty pleased I went with them rather than the much bigger D7 pods.
A couple of crappy videos are below - it's difficult to film the bike and operate the controls at the same time. You can't really see how bright these are as it was super bright day and what appears to be flickering is actually caused by a mismatch between the phone's capture rate and the light's refresh rates. The lights are solid on when viewed by humans with no flickering. The video of the rears shows the run light set to 10% brightness and the flash on brake set to 100%. The video of the front lights show (IIRC), the daytime low beam set to 30% and the high beam to 100%
https://youtube.com/shorts/v92-AbzhGU8?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/XQ4R54LqWQ4?feature=share
#732
How is the EzCan shaping up, I had the offer of a Beta test unit but was going on a 2500 mile round trip to France so didn’t want to chance having an issue to troubleshoot without a full compliment of tools available and also hadn’t at the time finalised what extras I wanted. Pretty sure now that I want the sound bomb horn (I have the bike specific bracket on order), a B6 on the number plate bracket as additional stop/rear light and front T3’s mounted on the hand guards as DRL/indicators. I’m hoping that I can used the bike specific plug and play wiring kits for the B6 and T3’s to save some circuits on the EzCan!? I also have the H-D Auxiliary Light kit and wiring harness to go on.
I used two circuits for the D4 driving lights because I wanted the ability for them to cancel one side when I used a turn signal. If you don't want this functionality, then I believe you only need one circuit for the pair of lights. I also know that the HD Aux lights will work with the ezCAN, but will probably need a specific wiring harness for plug and play - or some splicing. Again - HEX are working on this.
The B6 on the number plate will work on a single ezCAN circuit - but you could also just wire it to the existing bike wiring (but there would be no dimming, no flashing on braking, emergency stop or heavy engine braking)
The quirk here is that to use a pair of T3s at the front as turn signals will require two ezCAN circuits - because they will need to be modulated separately. This is what I ran into when thinking about setting up my rear T3s as run/brake/turn. There are a couple of options though - one is to daisy chain a second ezCAN to get more circuits. The other is to just have a single ezCAN circuit doing run/brake for the pair of T3s, and then splice the T3 turn wire into the bikes turn wire separately. This is what I am going to do next time I have the side case racks off.
Thinking about this a bit more though, for T3s at the front, you probably don't need them controlled by the ezCAN unless you want dimming. You can just splice them into the front turn signal and running light wiring. Or use the Denali bike specific wiring kit as you said above. They would run at full brightness - and they are pretty bright!
The cable kit that came with my ezCAN had everything I needed to run the D4s and the Soundbomb plug and play. For the dual T3s at the back, Stephan made me up a little harness that made it totally plug and play. The cable kit also came with way more options than I needed, including additional connectors, wiring, etc, so should cover most eventualities.
The only issue I think you may have is connecting the HD lights to the ezCAN - and only because I have no idea what connectors the HD lights use and they probably aren't the same as Denali. That said, as I mentioned, I know HEX are working on this...
All in all, the ezCAN is working great. I particularly love the strobe functionality on horn press or flash to pass. It really makes cars get out of your way. And the ability to have different brightness levels on your driving lights for day and night times is really good.
Sorry - that got a bit long and rambling!
The following users liked this post:
Prykey (06-28-2022)
#733
Well, the ezCAN is working really well. I don't know anything about when it will be generally available, but HEX are working hard on it and are pretty advanced. My unit is perfect.
I used two circuits for the D4 driving lights because I wanted the ability for them to cancel one side when I used a turn signal. If you don't want this functionality, then I believe you only need one circuit for the pair of lights. I also know that the HD Aux lights will work with the ezCAN, but will probably need a specific wiring harness for plug and play - or some splicing. Again - HEX are working on this.
The B6 on the number plate will work on a single ezCAN circuit - but you could also just wire it to the existing bike wiring (but there would be no dimming, no flashing on braking, emergency stop or heavy engine braking)
The quirk here is that to use a pair of T3s at the front as turn signals will require two ezCAN circuits - because they will need to be modulated separately. This is what I ran into when thinking about setting up my rear T3s as run/brake/turn. There are a couple of options though - one is to daisy chain a second ezCAN to get more circuits. The other is to just have a single ezCAN circuit doing run/brake for the pair of T3s, and then splice the T3 turn wire into the bikes turn wire separately. This is what I am going to do next time I have the side case racks off.
Thinking about this a bit more though, for T3s at the front, you probably don't need them controlled by the ezCAN unless you want dimming. You can just splice them into the front turn signal and running light wiring. Or use the Denali bike specific wiring kit as you said above. They would run at full brightness - and they are pretty bright!
The cable kit that came with my ezCAN had everything I needed to run the D4s and the Soundbomb plug and play. For the dual T3s at the back, Stephan made me up a little harness that made it totally plug and play. The cable kit also came with way more options than I needed, including additional connectors, wiring, etc, so should cover most eventualities.
The only issue I think you may have is connecting the HD lights to the ezCAN - and only because I have no idea what connectors the HD lights use and they probably aren't the same as Denali. That said, as I mentioned, I know HEX are working on this...
All in all, the ezCAN is working great. I particularly love the strobe functionality on horn press or flash to pass. It really makes cars get out of your way. And the ability to have different brightness levels on your driving lights for day and night times is really good.
Sorry - that got a bit long and rambling!
I used two circuits for the D4 driving lights because I wanted the ability for them to cancel one side when I used a turn signal. If you don't want this functionality, then I believe you only need one circuit for the pair of lights. I also know that the HD Aux lights will work with the ezCAN, but will probably need a specific wiring harness for plug and play - or some splicing. Again - HEX are working on this.
The B6 on the number plate will work on a single ezCAN circuit - but you could also just wire it to the existing bike wiring (but there would be no dimming, no flashing on braking, emergency stop or heavy engine braking)
The quirk here is that to use a pair of T3s at the front as turn signals will require two ezCAN circuits - because they will need to be modulated separately. This is what I ran into when thinking about setting up my rear T3s as run/brake/turn. There are a couple of options though - one is to daisy chain a second ezCAN to get more circuits. The other is to just have a single ezCAN circuit doing run/brake for the pair of T3s, and then splice the T3 turn wire into the bikes turn wire separately. This is what I am going to do next time I have the side case racks off.
Thinking about this a bit more though, for T3s at the front, you probably don't need them controlled by the ezCAN unless you want dimming. You can just splice them into the front turn signal and running light wiring. Or use the Denali bike specific wiring kit as you said above. They would run at full brightness - and they are pretty bright!
The cable kit that came with my ezCAN had everything I needed to run the D4s and the Soundbomb plug and play. For the dual T3s at the back, Stephan made me up a little harness that made it totally plug and play. The cable kit also came with way more options than I needed, including additional connectors, wiring, etc, so should cover most eventualities.
The only issue I think you may have is connecting the HD lights to the ezCAN - and only because I have no idea what connectors the HD lights use and they probably aren't the same as Denali. That said, as I mentioned, I know HEX are working on this...
All in all, the ezCAN is working great. I particularly love the strobe functionality on horn press or flash to pass. It really makes cars get out of your way. And the ability to have different brightness levels on your driving lights for day and night times is really good.
Sorry - that got a bit long and rambling!
#734
Thats great, I’m not too worried how bright the T3’s are as DRL’s as I want to be seen lol, I’m hoping that I’ll only use 1 maybe 2 circuits on the EzCan with one being for the sound bomb, I was just going to get the H-D Auxiliary Lights installed using the standard H-D wiring loom with the switches as I won’t require them all the time so it will be handy to turn them on and off, I know that Stephan was working on connecting the H-D lights to the EzCan as he mentioned in a post on a forum some time ago. Hopefully the standard plug and play wiring from Denali will be available soon! One question and I know that your EzCan is pre production but are the leads that run to the battery long enough so the EzCan can be located under the seat?
I would recommend wiring the HD aux lights via the ezCAN, because you do get the ability to dim, flash, strobe etc. You can turn them off via a long press on one of the D-pad buttons in case you don't want them lit. It gives you a lot more flexibility than the simple HD on/off.
The following users liked this post:
Prykey (06-29-2022)
#737
#738