Edit #2 - Calsci customer service very good. They have general size info on their site but they also went out and measured when I wasn't sure about size. For Pan America, M = 3 1/4" over stock. L = 4 3/4" over stock.
I wish they would show a pic of the 15" Tinted Shorty on their website
Edit #2 - Calsci customer service very good. They have general size info on their site but they also went out and measured when I wasn't sure about size. For Pan America, M = 3 1/4" over stock. L = 4 3/4" over stock.
Have tried CalSci screens since about 2008. Hit or miss as to whether they work. But, their customer service is excellent. Make sure you DO NOT take the plastic off the screen, install and take for a ride. If it doesn't work for you it can be exchanged very easily.
If your stock shield is mechanically adjustable, put it in the lowest position. If your windshield is electrically adjustable, put it about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up.
Get a yard (meter) stick - free at Home Depot or most hardware stores.
Park your bike on level ground. Measure 30' (9 meters) from your front wheel contact patch. Drop something on the pavement, keys, a rock, whatever.
Measure 30' (nine meters) more, you're now 60' (18 meters) in front of your bike. Drop something else, wallet, ex-girlfriend, whatever.
Tape the yardstick along the center of the windshield with masking tape or something, with the 20" mark visible from the rider's seat, aligned with the top of the windshield, and the stick pointing up. Now the 21" mark is 1" above the top edge of the windshield. See picture at right.
Sit on your bike and look at the two things you dropped on the pavement. Try to sit with your normal riding posture. Don't cheat - if you slouch a bit when riding, slouch a bit now.
You can sight along the yard stick and see how many inches up from the top of the shield you see the 30' and 60' marks. This tells you how many inches taller you would like your windshield.
Your optimum windshield height is somewhere between these two heights. Lower for warmer climates, sportier feel and more air flow. Higher for colder climates / quieter riding / more wind protection. Our shields are typically made in 1.5" (4cm) increments to help you get the best height for you.
Ended up selecting an XL (I'm 6' 3") which measure 16" above the top bolt hole (6" taller than stock).
Honestly, these screens are ugly, imo, but when they work they really work.
Usually go through 4 windscreens before settling on the 'best' for longer trips and one for daily riding. Rarely is it a single screen.
Got the Madstad 18" installed today. 18"er at the bottom of travel is the height of the OEM+ plus the extension I had on it and still have another 2" to raise it if I want. I got so tired of the BS flopping around of the OEM, this one is rock solid. I had one on my Triumph 800 XC and it was a treat!. And, it replaces all the cheesy plastic mounting of the OEM with some solid metal. Yeah, you shouldn't adjust it on the fly, but once you find the sweet spot, you won't need to.
Also got the A1cycle risers installed- quality product for sure and they feel great. Will be anxious to try out in the dirty stuff!
Also got the A1cycle risers installed- quality product for sure and they feel great. Will be anxious to try out in the dirty stuff!
Installed the A1 Cycle risers a couple days ago. They do put the bars at a perfect spot. No interference with the tank and wires/hydraulics are fine.
Not a fan of the HD design of having one bolt holding each riser screwing up from the bottom. Made sure to use loctite on them and torqued to 35-39 ft-lbs per the manual.
I really wish A1 had used the same four bolts for the handlebar clamps. The bolt heads require 10mm star pattern socket, rather than the 'regular' socket one would find in a toolkit.
This is a big deal to me as it's one more socket to carry in a toolkit for distance riding. Also, there was a LOT of metal debris in both riser's bolt holes.
The bolts threads are squared off (see picture) increasing the potential for cross-threading. Again, use of the HD bolts would have alleviated this. Ran both a tap on the holes, die on the bolts and used air to blow out metal debris.
Both the upper and lower handlebar radius areas end in really sharp angles. Covered those edges with tape when fitting the bars, to avoid scratches. Those sharp edges should have been hit with a file.
Lastly, the gap left when the the four bolts are torqued is pretty big. I'm being picky here but there should have been a feeler gauge gap, not more than a dime's thickness (1.35mm).
For the price paid, there should have been more attention to detail, imo.
Used 18-20 ft-lbs torque on the four bolts, per the HD manual. Didn't see any instructions or torque values in the packaging.
Installed the A1 Cycle risers a couple days ago. They do put the bars at a perfect spot. No interference with the tank and wires/hydraulics are fine.
Not a fan of the HD design of having one bolt holding each riser screwing up from the bottom. Made sure to use loctite on them and torqued to 35-39 ft-lbs per the manual.
I really wish A1 had used the same four bolts for the handlebar clamps. The bolt heads require 10mm star pattern socket, rather than the 'regular' socket one would find in a toolkit.
This is a big deal to me as it's one more socket to carry in a toolkit for distance riding. Also, there was a LOT of metal debris in both riser's bolt holes.
The bolts threads are squared off (see picture) increasing the potential for cross-threading. Again, use of the HD bolts would have alleviated this. Ran both a tap on the holes, die on the bolts and used air to blow out metal debris.
Both the upper and lower handlebar radius areas end in really sharp angles. Covered those edges with tape when fitting the bars, to avoid scratches. Those sharp edges should have been hit with a file.
Lastly, the gap left when the the four bolts are torqued is pretty big. I'm being picky here but there should have been a feeler gauge gap, not more than a dime's thickness (1.35mm).
For the price paid, there should have been more attention to detail, imo.
Used 18-20 ft-lbs torque on the four bolts, per the HD manual. Didn't see any instructions or torque values in the packaging.
Instructions came with mine 18ft-lbs to top bolts, 24ft-lbs to bottom bolts
Instructions came with mine 18ft-lbs to top bolts, 24ft-lbs to bottom bolts
Mine showed up in a USPS bubble wrap mailer with nothing inside. Interesting torque value for the bottom as the HD OEM bolt is used. 24 ft-lbs seems low.
If you look at the installation instructions for HD's tall riser kit it states: Torque: 24–27 N·m (18–20 ft-lbs) Front top clamp screw Torque: 24–27 N·m (18–20 ft-lbs) Rear top clamp screw Torque screws (E). Tighten. Torque: 48–53.5 N·m (35.4–39.5 ft-lbs)
HD's instructions also tells you to use Red loctite on the riser screws (E).
One would think the riser screws (E) should be torqued according to HD's instructions (35.4–39.5 ft-lbs) even when using the A1 riser.
Perhaps. Which gives me pause as the moment arm has been greatly increased, therefore the risers should be able to withstand larger forces, not less.
When the Rox risers arrive, I may just swap for those. Not getting a warm and fuzzy with this product.
Steering is a critical process. Not going to fool around and be the crash test dummy. Already used up 8 of the 9 lives wearing a parachute or ejection seat..
09-25-2021 | 06:23 AM
