Where to Find Mobil1 V-Twin 20W50 in Canada
#11
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You don't need the over priced v-twin oils in a big twin. They were formulated for bikes with shared sumps and lack any friction modifiers which the auto industry has proven to help engines last to unheard of mileages.
Any automotive 20w-50 will work as well as or better than the v-twin stuff. The only place the jaso designation matters is in the primary and good old rotella t 15w-40 meets that spec for less than half the cost.
Use an automotive 20w-50. They have molybdenum disulfide which sticks to the metal as the engine cools,creating a sacrificial layer at start up eliminating metal on metal contact. The v-twin oils have elevated amounts of zddp which is an anti-wear agent. However zddp doesn't activate until the oil is up to operating temp.
If you were riding a shared sump bike then you would need a jaso approved oil but even then none of them spec a 20w-50 anymore(not many anyway) so there again rotella would be the most cost effective option.
And mobil 1 made my bike sound like a can of marbles bouncing around. I drained it after less than 1000 kms. Try red line,royal purple,motul or Amsoil. At least they are a group 4/5 synthetic. Mobil's new formulations have lessened their use of real synthetic basestocks and they are primarily a group 3/4 mix.
If you are going to spend the money synthetics demand get a real synthetic,mobil isn't anymore.
Mobils marketing department is absolute genius. They have proven that people will buy on blind faith and because they saw a sticker on a stock car.
Any automotive 20w-50 will work as well as or better than the v-twin stuff. The only place the jaso designation matters is in the primary and good old rotella t 15w-40 meets that spec for less than half the cost.
Use an automotive 20w-50. They have molybdenum disulfide which sticks to the metal as the engine cools,creating a sacrificial layer at start up eliminating metal on metal contact. The v-twin oils have elevated amounts of zddp which is an anti-wear agent. However zddp doesn't activate until the oil is up to operating temp.
If you were riding a shared sump bike then you would need a jaso approved oil but even then none of them spec a 20w-50 anymore(not many anyway) so there again rotella would be the most cost effective option.
And mobil 1 made my bike sound like a can of marbles bouncing around. I drained it after less than 1000 kms. Try red line,royal purple,motul or Amsoil. At least they are a group 4/5 synthetic. Mobil's new formulations have lessened their use of real synthetic basestocks and they are primarily a group 3/4 mix.
If you are going to spend the money synthetics demand get a real synthetic,mobil isn't anymore.
Mobils marketing department is absolute genius. They have proven that people will buy on blind faith and because they saw a sticker on a stock car.
#12
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And if you aren't going to extend your drains(8000kms) then don't even bother with synthetics. A conventional is more than adequate. Synthetics last longer in the sump,they don't lubricate any better. They arent magic. Most of us don't ride in conditions that warrant the use of a synthetic oil.
Where synthetic oils really excel is in extreme heat and extreme cold. If you aren't experiencing these extremes then a synthetic is not providing a good return on investment,unless you plan on extending the drain interval.
I had a used oil analysis done on pennzoil 20w-50 and Amsoil v-twin.
The Amsoil went 5000 miles(8000kms). Blackstones comments included that there was enough tbn to run the oil another 1500 miles.
I ran the auto 20w-50 pennzoil for 3000 miles(5000kms). Blackstones comments were that the tbn was sufficient for another 1000 miles and the wear metal numbers were LOWER than with Amsoil,according to their extrapolation.
So on my bike a conventional showed less wear than a top of the line synthetic. And the reason was molybdenum disulfide(moly) which is only found in automotive oils. They cannot put it in v-twin oils because it will cause the clutch to slip and shorten it's service life.
I now add moly to my oil regardless of the brand I use. Liqui-moly or lubro-moly. You can find it at napa.
I use it in every motor I own. My truck gets 100kms per tank more(100L tank). My mustang gets better mileage as does my bike. My bike is a cammed 106 and gets 50mpg. All my compressors and generators get longer run times per tank. Everything I put this stuff in gets better mileage.
It takes a couple tanks to get the additive to "plate" the moving parts but once it's on there it creates a super slick film that is very durable, eliminates dry starts which is where most engine wear is.
It's called lubro-moly MOS2 anti friction treatment.
Most energy conserving oils have it in the formula already however my experience is adding a can of this stuff shows a fuel economy improvement.
It more than pays for itself in fuel savings alone,and I'm sure less wear is also a result as well.
#13
Mobil1 V-Twin oil
Their address is 4115 64 Avenue Southeast Calgary, AB T2C 2C8
(403) 720-0620
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