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Filthy oil after change on neglected scoot...flush?

 
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  #1  
Old 04-29-2012 | 10:32 AM
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Default Filthy oil after change on neglected scoot...flush?

I did a search and read the threads about flushing. I just bought a '96 Dyna from the original owner. He told me he did his own oil changes. The bike was not properly maintained, from what I discovered. Primary chain was completely slack, and required the adjuster to it's tightest setting to bring it back within spec. Considering the bike only has 11k miles, I'm sure it was never adjusted, and will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. The drain plug was stripped and replaced with a piggy back plug, and it's leaking. I asked when the oil was last changed, and he couldn't remember.

Anyway, I Changed all of the oils yesterday and used Mobil 1 15-50 in the engine with a KN filter. After letting it idle for about 5 minutes, the oil was already filthy. The drain plug is dripping pretty significantly (it's been in my garage about 12 hours, has a 5" puddle under it) so I'm going to pull the plug today, put an oring and teflon tape on it and try to get it to seat well enough not to leak. My original plan was to capture the "new" oil so I could put it back in teh engine, but now I'm not so sure.

Should I do the oil filter off flush? Run this syn oil for a few hundred miles and change it? Run Rotella 15x-40 and do a bunch of quick oil changes on it til it's clean?
 
  #2  
Old 04-29-2012 | 12:01 PM
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No flush change oil run it change again. And always change filter.
Why I never buy used HD so many of the mess up by owner.
 
  #3  
Old 04-29-2012 | 12:23 PM
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If I could find a new HD for $5k, I wouldn't buy used either. But since I can't...
 
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Old 04-29-2012 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Wakko47
If I could find a new HD for $5k, I wouldn't buy used either. But since I can't...
I understand. Just so many of the so called defects in HD's are cause by people that take short cuts fail to service , use cheap parts
and allow Bubba to work on it.
Sad you end up the the problems a 96 EVO with 11,000 is not even broke in yet.
Have one sitting in the garage 52K on it
There are a couple way to fit the leaking plug there is a whole tread on the subject.
ALSO CLEAN THE TAPPET SCREEN a few times very important in this case.
Here is a how to if you have never done it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47ljGG0XMa0
 

Last edited by smitty901; 04-29-2012 at 12:39 PM.
  #5  
Old 04-29-2012 | 12:50 PM
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Thanks, Smitty...didn't know about the tappet screen. How long do you think I should wait before changing the oil again? I hate to waste the Mobil 1, but it's a small price to pay if it cleans out the engine and increases longevity.
 
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Old 04-29-2012 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wakko47
Thanks, Smitty...didn't know about the tappet screen. How long do you think I should wait before changing the oil again? I hate to waste the Mobil 1, but it's a small price to pay if it cleans out the engine and increases longevity.
If it were my ride I would not put M1 in yet use a cheaper 20/50 oil ride it get it warmed up good 100 miles change it should not take to much to lose up the sludge. The flush products seem to cause to many leaks and just not worth it.
EVO ran a lot of miles on plain old 20/50 standard oil. EVO oil change is 2500 miles if you follow that with standard oil you will do just as good as any SYN. SYn protect from heat more than anything, not a real issue with the EVO. Most case the EVO is a tough old engine.
Another thing with EVO they should be warmed up before you roll on hard with them. If not warmed up well they tend to develop cyl gasket leaks.
I would also run a little Sea foam in the gas for a while it has been sitting awhile. Look in the tank for any signs of rust.
 

Last edited by smitty901; 04-29-2012 at 01:01 PM.
  #7  
Old 04-29-2012 | 01:11 PM
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Yep, it already has a little seepage at the base of the rear jug. Mechanic said not to worry about it, but to make sure I warm it up. My neighbor leaves his windows open sometimes, it's got drag pipes (for now) and I leave for work at 6:30...he's gonna hate me.

Oh, and I had no intention of chemically flushing it...just using oil. I may do a few rapid oil changes on it over the next couple months...better stock up on oil filters.
 
  #8  
Old 04-29-2012 | 03:08 PM
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I would not use synthetic oil in it after you change out the M1. Just use a good MC rated 20w50 from autozone. You may discover the leaks subside. I would also just do 2000 mile oil & filter changes for the next 10,000 miles and you should be good.
 
  #9  
Old 04-29-2012 | 03:15 PM
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Pennzoil is known for it's detergent abilities,as is m1 however the m1 is more costly.
I have used and believe in seafoam,it's great stuff when used as directed.
Now find some pennzoil 20w-50,a few gallons honestly. Use 1/4 can of seafoam in crankcase with the pennzoil and run it 1000 miles then drain. Do this twice then change filter. Repeat the process changing the filter at 2000 miles again.
I know it sounds like a waste but it will clean the innards very well.
Then move on to your synthetic of choice.
 
  #10  
Old 04-29-2012 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Wakko47
Yep, it already has a little seepage at the base of the rear jug. Mechanic said not to worry about it, but to make sure I warm it up. My neighbor leaves his windows open sometimes, it's got drag pipes (for now) and I leave for work at 6:30...he's gonna hate me.

Oh, and I had no intention of chemically flushing it...just using oil. I may do a few rapid oil changes on it over the next couple months...better stock up on oil filters.
Just do not forget to clean that tappet screen. Normally it is not a big deal once every oil change and if you miss one no big deal.
In your case you never know if some slug may plug it up so your going to want to clean it often for awhile.
You can start it and leave the enricher on pull out easy and roll along to warm up just not 0 to 60 stuff till it does.
Sense your throwing oil filters away early may as well use some cheap discount ones at first.
 

Last edited by smitty901; 04-29-2012 at 03:24 PM.


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