Bluegrasser. I am going to assume you are referring to Gary because I'm not a dealer,nor preferred customer. And I use both mobil 1 and amsoil,but if I actually had to pay for oil right at this moment it would be pennzoil. And I would change it at 3000 miles.
Or I would buy whatever was on sale.
Infer whatever you like from my comments. Your vast broad though process is becoming very clear.
Now whether oil companies want to admit or not the basestock is very important. The amount of viscosity improvers added is going to go hand in hand with how long the oil will
stay in grade before shearing to a thinner viscosity.
If I had easy access to it I would use red line. It's a group 5 basestock.
Let's talk basestocks. I read a study about conventional group 2 all the way to group 5. This study suggests that the conventional group 2 has charged molecules that actually attract(think magnet) to ferrous parts in the engine. Group 3 and 4 lose this charge,and group 5 PAO based oils also have this "magnetism".
This study suggests that this is why when an engine is first switched over to synthetic the wear metals increase as shown by used oil analysis. Then return to normal working a couple of oil changes.
Used oil analysis' is really money well spent if you plan on keeping an engine long term. Trends can be established with Wear metals,contaminants such as silica(sand) can be observed(new air filter).
Once trends are established anything out of the ordinary can be addresed before a catastrophic failure. For example if copper levels spike it could mean a bearing has had it and could save you big bucks in parts.
I'm not picking sides really in the syn vs Dino debate. I am merely suggesting that,from a cost perspective,it would take real analysis to determine if one or the other really is better.
Til then I think I am going to fill up with motul 15w-50. There was 6 quarts of it in that lot I bid 10 bucks on and won.
I haven't counted but I am guessing 400 quarts total. 5 milk crates of mobil 1 v-twin and amsoil v-twin.
And I will conclude my last post in this degenerated thread...... Use whatever you want,any big name oil will have very similar characteristics as the next brand. Your bike won't know the difference. If you are going to use synthetic stretch it out to 5000 miles,or pour your money away. Your bikes,your money

 

Yes, SR. Sorry. I got you confused with twistr. You are not a dealer. I apologize.

 

Sorry, couldn't resist this. Lolololololololol!!!!!

 

Now that is funny.

I really don't need any more friends, I have more then enough.

Now back to subject. I can say the same to you about not being able to read. I keep asking you guys why you are so uptight about how many levels anyone has and why you keep asking over and over again why their prices are so secret and you can't the prices. You never answer so I assume you either don't read past posts or can't read.
Then you keep making false statements over and over again even after I've bebunked them.

 

I will admit that Amsoil sales are easier to take since they instituted the Preferred Customer system. It doesn't feel as multi-tiered anymore. I still think they should show you how much the oil will be with the PC discount before you have to pay so you can decide if it's worth it.

That said, I still can't stand the white paper and Amsoil's outlandish claims.

Care to comment on my analysis of the white paper?

 

C'mon guys, I've got a headache....

 

To tell you the truth, I haven't even read the White Paper report. You could be right, but don't all mfg's brag about their products? Also if they are so outlandish, why hasn't the competitors called them out on them. I would.

I can't comment on the PC prices, but for the dealer(sorry I have to use that word again) prices there is a price book with all the prices - suggested retail and wholesale.

Did you look for a PC price book?

 

R u kidding? I am glad I don't pay attention to some of the crapola people put on here. But there are people that read this stuff and believe it because someone who shouldn't, writes it down and posts it on here...
I don't care what oil anyone else uses!!! As stated above, who's motor failed by crappy new oil...BUT, what I do care about is trying to get and give good info on here. I use RedLine, but please don't use it because I do, use what works best for u and your budget. Just don't run lower octain gasoline than is required by the manufacturer of your bike.

 

Petewerner, what are you saying?

I've been using 87 octane all my Harleys for years and so have hundreds of others with absolutely no problems. I've read countless magazine articles and newspaper auto columns letters to the editors and they all same the same thing.

I agree with you, if your manual says "Requires" premium, then you have to use premium, but if it says "recommends" then you can also use 87 without any problems. As one columnist stated "Most new car computers will compensate for the differences. Now if you have a race prepared or high compression engine then you will need high test. I even ran all my Vettes on 87 octane until I went out for track days. Then I wanted all the potential power I could get so I used premium.

People who normally use premium for daily driving and try a tank of regular say they don't notice any difference.

I don't care what oil other people use either. RedLine is a fine oil as is Mobil1, Quaker State, Penzoil etc. and I've said that from the beginning. Even dino oil is fine if you change it as recommended.

 

I think I'll just stick to what the previous owners used in the bike. I have still checked high and low around my area and still no find it. I sitll don't understand the voodoo involved with the product. I think it is just somebody's slick marketing ploy to bolster the mystique of the product. If you can buy the oil off the shelf good for you. It's not worth the hoops for me to pursue the product.