Yeah, I got one of those.......

 

I know this is an old thread but I am interested. Can anyone tell me upon doing this, do you need to upgrade your oil pump? Seems to me the oil is being pushed a lot farther now. yes its nice to have cooler oil for the motor but what good is it if you lost most of your pressure?

 

What engine are you running...EVO or Twin-Cam? On an EVO, the oil circuit in the cooler will be most efficient at higher RPM's. The EVO filters/cools the oil AFTER it leaves the engine en-route back to the sump and at low pressure. It won't matter whether-or-not the oil is going thru the cooler loop, or being by-passed by the thermostat. The oil takes the path of least resistance and a cooler adds resistance to the circuit. You don't need a larger pump on the EVO...it will just not cool as efficiently at idle.

Twin Cam is a different animal. It filters/cools the oil B4 it enters the engine. If a cooler (crash-bar or otherwise) is located high in the frame, as a crash-bar cooler would be, you may have to install a check-valve to prevent oil flow-back into the crankcase causing dry-starts. It's not a good idea at all unless you have a device in the circuit to block any flow-back. The thermostat I had and the way in which I had it plumed prevented flow-back.

But...in any case and to help answer your question....a larger pump is not necessary. Not withstaning the fact that a larger pump can never hurt.

 

It's an evo flhri. I apologize for my ignorance but can you explain what hoses I need to tie into?

I appreciate all the help

 

Understood. If you don't understand the oil plumbing circuits, components and modifications needed, it may be best in your case to simply install a commercially available cooler. A "wafer" is required that installs between the filter and the base of the filter bracket to gain access to the oil return line. This can be obtained individually or in a kit form that will include a cooler and instructions. If you want to go with the crash-bar cooler, you'll still need the wafer. It will require removal of the crash-bar, drilling-and-tapping the bar at the base on each side and installing the proper fitting for the oil lines. This requires care to insure the crash-bar is thoroughly cleaned and air-tight. I think in your case...the pursuit of an oil cooler "kit" is more in order. Crash-bar coolers do work, but a chin-mounted oil cooler should be adequate and closely match the results a crash-bar cooler would achieve and it will be much easier for the novice to install.

 

Idon't understand the oil Plumbing circuits on a Harley, but this is nothing newto me. I've done many different plumbing of oil on old flat heads 196 L blocks.I have all the tools to do the job. I’m good with a tap and die so that's notthe problem. I just like knowing exactly what I’m getting into. I have the DHmanual and I know it has a section on oil flow.



Ialso don't really like the look of radiator style oil cooler.



Iwas just thinking someone could show me what line is the in line to the crashbar and what line is the out from the crash bar. I have the knowhow to put inthe thermostat myself in-between the two lines. I defiantly have the knowhow totap and thread a quarter inch hole in the bars too.



I’vealways been mechanically inclined and usually do all my own work. It’s justalways been on classic cars. I’m new to the Harley scene.

 

Sounds to me like you could handle it. In a nutshell....there is no way you can get to the oil circuit and attach cooler lines, unless you break the circuit. The filter housing "wafer" allows access to the return line. It also has a built-in thermostat. It screws in place over the filter housing and you screw your filter on to the wafer once it's installed.The bushing that the filter screws onto in the housing is removed and replaced by a longer bushing to hold the wafer in place. You'll never have to remove the wafer again. Filter removal and oil changes remain the same.

The wafers can be obtained of places like e-bay. One you have that..you have two outlets running from the wafer which route to the heat-sink...either a cooler or the crash-bar. If you use the crash-bar, you will remove it and on the flat base at each end (where it bolts to the frame), you will drill and tap something like a 3/8" NPT fitting to accept the two lines from the wafer. You will need to thoroughly flush out the crash bar to remove any debris left from the tapping and clean-out the interior of the bar as well. It's not a bad idea to check the crash-bar by applying some air pressure (one end plugged) to make sue it doesn't have a leak. The bar was never designed to hold pressure, but I've never found one that leaked. The rest of it is simply....run your two lines and plumb it all up. The crash-bar will always retain some oil and after the initial installation, you may need to add a small amount of oil until the system is purged. After that, succeeding oil changes will be the routine 3.5-4 quarts. If you want to PM me with an e-mail address...I will send you a diagram of the oil circuit.

 

Iunderstand now. and I now know how and where the lines run. To the wafer. forit has the inlet and outlet.



Myonly other question is I’m having a hard time finding a wafer with athermostat.



idlike it to be chrome and not a million dollars hahaha. I found this one on ebaybut it’s not chrome and doesn't have the thermostat.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-Harley-Da...3D361865914616

 

I don't remember where I got it or how I got it, but it's still on the 1997 Ultra that I sold, but it was a wafer with a spring by-pass thermostat in the housing. The recent models have the cartridge-type that screw-in with a special wrench. You can plumb-in an external stat, but the hoses get real "busy". I used one of the aluminum automotive stats screwed into one of the holes I drilled in the crash-bar on one application. It made for a really nice and neat job. I always used JIC (AN) fittings and hoses........hot-rod stuff. Look up in post #7...I had that on a trike.