why would you change your fluids every 1k miles? that is a HUGE waste of money unless your riding around in dust storms, dirt roads, and occasionally have your motor submerged. At that rate, I would be changing my oil every 2 weeks. The only time I changed oil even REMOTELY close to that was when I was racing my bike, And I would change it every race weekend. That was 4-6 racing classes, 2 endurance classes, and all my practice.. Oil always looked like new when draining... It was mainly for the clutch plates and to make sure I didnt break anything that needed replacement. This is on a motor that would rev to 15k rpm and put out 110 to the rear wheel.

 

Like i said its cheap maintenance and it will never hurt anything. most guys are spending thousands in mods and why would you cry over a $30.00 oil change. in my case probably about 200 dollars for the season. yea harley tells you every three thousand miles and 5000 on the tranny and primary. You can go along with there suggestions if you like but like i mentioned in my post they have a number of years in mind for your bike and mine differs from there's.

 

TC schedule is oil at 5k intervals.

 

Good for you... not very green though... very wasteful... but what the hell... do as you please and f&^% everyone else.

 

Ha, if being green was the benefit of changing the oil at longer drain intervals I would never change it.

I do however believe changing oil every 1000 is a bit dramatic. I did a lot of study in the arena of lubrication and what it takes to break oils down. Granted most of the problems with these engines are not due to break down but due to suspended particulate, the oil itself does not show significant break down for many thousands of miles. If space were not an issue, a dual bypass filter system or a centrifuge would allow them to run 50-75,000 miles on one change. However the current filtration system and the remote oil tank systems, will allow suspended particulate quantities to accumulate much more than I would like so I deal with the 3-5000 miles drains.

As far as the scavenger, I suppose this is a good idea, but not really much more useful than just putting a new filter on and then run for a 10 minutes and change it for a new one. If you have a good .5 micron filter system, it should do quite well in removing the dangerous particulate. I do suppose that no filter like this would certainly speed up the process.

Good idea to make your own kit and save the $40+ bucks on the store bought version.

 

sometimes I think this should be called the **** forums (and not in a good way). I, and most everyone I ride with, am on the HD recommended schedule. 70K on my current bike with 5K crankcase changes and 10K on trans and primary, never had an issue related to oil. 5 years is not the projected longevity of a vehicle, but the average time a person owns a vehicle. If they only lasted 5 years, there wouldn't be any used vehicles out there.

 

The only thing green about this big deal they are making about the whole green thing it is the money they are making off it

 

amen brother

 

I tried this myself today. Cost me about $12. I had to go to Lowes to get an elbow plastic fitting that fit into the oil return hole and a clear rubber hose. I didn't do the sugar cap thing either. After cutting the oil filter in half I just took the top part, turned it upside down and forced it into the bottom half. Then I took some JB weld and used it on the seam. It's not as pretty as the OPs but it worked great! Got a little more than a half a quart of dirty oil out of the sump.

 

I bought the scavenger, used it on my 07 fatboy- works great and my indy asked me when he did the cam change at 3000K later why my oil was so clean....!!!

My problem now is that with the way the pipes are on my D&D fatcats, I can't pull the oil line to use my set up :-( I hate knowing that there IS about 28-30 oz of dirty oil in my oil system.

And, i would never dump a quart of dirty oil back into my car when changing its oil.