Engine Oil vs Gear Oil
#141
Any year, any mileage...
Lots of experts here say you must run this oil or that oil, but the gears are not the issue in failures of the 6 speed transmission, the bearings are the failure point, no matter what lube is used. Once a bearing goes anything can be damaged, because the gears are no longer running in correct position.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 05-07-2017 at 11:01 AM.
#142
Show a post from any forum about a worn or damaged gear in any Harley that was caused by non gear oil.
Any year, any mileage...
Lots of experts here say you must run this oil or that oil, but the gears are not the issue in failures of the 6 speed transmission, the bearings are the failure point, no matter what lube is used. Once a bearing goes anything can be damaged, because the gears are no longer running in correct position.
Any year, any mileage...
Lots of experts here say you must run this oil or that oil, but the gears are not the issue in failures of the 6 speed transmission, the bearings are the failure point, no matter what lube is used. Once a bearing goes anything can be damaged, because the gears are no longer running in correct position.
#143
I don't run Rotella in the motor, only the primary. I use 20w50 Quicksilver full synthetic in the motor. It is much quieter then the M1 or Amsoil 20w50. I have run this oil for the past 4 yrs. About $7 a QT when I buy the gallon jug.
#144
Splatt, I ran M1 in all my TC's since 2005 in all 3 holes, until about 4 years ago. I always had a slight clutch slip on initial take off. This was evident on more then one bike. I switched to dino Rotella and the clutch felt as it should, after a few miles. I change it annually in the fall. I have never had a clutch or comp issue. I ride about 8000 miles a year, 2 up.
Last edited by checkers; 05-08-2017 at 06:53 PM.
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splattttttt (05-09-2017)
#145
I run 20w50 Lucas Oil full synthetic in all three holes, with different amounts of synthetic stabilizer in each Engine is 25% stabilizer. Primary is 20% and tranny is 15% I think. Would have to refer to my notes. Used these formulas based on advice from a buddy that has 127K on his 97 Road King. I changed to the blend in my 04 RK and the clutch operated better, upper valve train noise reduced and tranny shifted smoother. Picking up a low mile 13 RK next week and will switch it to the same formula.
#147
Be careful talking about politics, religion or motor oil.
It seems to me that we have three areas consider. One is how the bike functions - top end engine noise, finding neutral, gear clunk, clutch slippage, engine temps, etc. These are all things that we can decide on based on how our bikes operate for us, in our weather and with our preferences. If you don't like gear clunk and so and so's gear oil fixes that objection, then you are probably a gear oil guy in the tranny. You feel slippage in the clutch and don't like it, you might be a Dino oil in the primary guy. You really like lower temps from your IR gun and you live in Texas, you might be a synthesis engine oil guy.
Second is conforming to the Harley specs if that's important to you. GL1 vs GL5, SF/SG/SX etc. some guys like following the rules, some don't and want to stick it to the "Stealership".
Third is how everything holds up over the life of the bike - compression, valve train, bearings, seal leaks etc. Basically, how much service/miles before a major repair or rebuild. I find this more useful than plowing through UOA reports which still doesn't tell us how long the drivetrain lasts without issue. This is how I settled on my Dino truck oil - extended change interval results over 100,000+ miles with no oil related issues. PYB Pennzoil BTW.
This is where I would like to hear from you guys. which of you hard core riders has put big miles 75K/100K+ on your rides with no mechanical issues related to oil and what did you use in all three holes?
George
It seems to me that we have three areas consider. One is how the bike functions - top end engine noise, finding neutral, gear clunk, clutch slippage, engine temps, etc. These are all things that we can decide on based on how our bikes operate for us, in our weather and with our preferences. If you don't like gear clunk and so and so's gear oil fixes that objection, then you are probably a gear oil guy in the tranny. You feel slippage in the clutch and don't like it, you might be a Dino oil in the primary guy. You really like lower temps from your IR gun and you live in Texas, you might be a synthesis engine oil guy.
Second is conforming to the Harley specs if that's important to you. GL1 vs GL5, SF/SG/SX etc. some guys like following the rules, some don't and want to stick it to the "Stealership".
Third is how everything holds up over the life of the bike - compression, valve train, bearings, seal leaks etc. Basically, how much service/miles before a major repair or rebuild. I find this more useful than plowing through UOA reports which still doesn't tell us how long the drivetrain lasts without issue. This is how I settled on my Dino truck oil - extended change interval results over 100,000+ miles with no oil related issues. PYB Pennzoil BTW.
This is where I would like to hear from you guys. which of you hard core riders has put big miles 75K/100K+ on your rides with no mechanical issues related to oil and what did you use in all three holes?
George
#148
Don’t talk about religion, politics or oil. Oh well, here goes.
We can decide about our engine/tranny/primary choices based on operating results. Synthetic in the engine for cooler temps, gear oil in the tranny for less clunk, dino in the primary for less clutch slip, etc. We can also decide on meeting spec (GL1 vs GL5, favorite brands, theories on base stock, zinc and phosphorous, whether or not we want to subsidize the dealership, etc. That’s largely personal preferences with some spin based on test reports, etc.
What I would like to know from the owners here is what lubricants produced great long term drive train reliability results in real life conditions. In the end I think that is the most important info on what works the best. Who doesn’t want to go 100K miles without a major teardown and no beakdowns on the road?
Who here has experienced high mileage (75K+) with no oil related issues (compression, valves, bearings, gears, leaks, etc.)., what did you put in all three holes, and do you operate up north, down south or in the middle?
George
We can decide about our engine/tranny/primary choices based on operating results. Synthetic in the engine for cooler temps, gear oil in the tranny for less clunk, dino in the primary for less clutch slip, etc. We can also decide on meeting spec (GL1 vs GL5, favorite brands, theories on base stock, zinc and phosphorous, whether or not we want to subsidize the dealership, etc. That’s largely personal preferences with some spin based on test reports, etc.
What I would like to know from the owners here is what lubricants produced great long term drive train reliability results in real life conditions. In the end I think that is the most important info on what works the best. Who doesn’t want to go 100K miles without a major teardown and no beakdowns on the road?
Who here has experienced high mileage (75K+) with no oil related issues (compression, valves, bearings, gears, leaks, etc.)., what did you put in all three holes, and do you operate up north, down south or in the middle?
George
#149
Anybody using Amsoil synthetic severe gear 75W-110 in there Harley 6 speed? I'm using HD Formula Plus currently. But thinking of trying Amsoil synthetic severe gear 75W-110 and would like to get some feedback from current users before trying it out. Thanks in advanced.
Cheers
Cheers
#150
what about a new sportster where the tranny shares fluid with Primary?