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Hd360 voa?

 
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  #11  
Old 10-02-2009, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dynarule
Well you have the proof on the paper with the about the same milage on the HD360. I cant realy see any benifit to using the Amsoil for $10+ bucks a qt. I know, everybody talks about the heat thing but just cant see where there is a real problem with it in your UOA. To me this whole synthetic oil stuff is alot of hype and nothing more. Thanks for posting your report, good info.
That,s kind of like saying Harleys are alot of hype and nothing more.
 
  #12  
Old 10-02-2009, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by skidder
That,s kind of like saying Harleys are alot of hype and nothing more.
That dont make no sense. We are talking about an oil here in the oil section on this forum. If we were talking and comparing Jap bikes and Harley's then you might make a little sense but we are not.
 
  #13  
Old 10-02-2009, 05:48 PM
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The 1st and 8th samples were the hd360 while the rest were amsoil. I'm thinking the 8th sample, has some residual Amsoil in it as hd360 doesn't use moly in their anti wear package.And he doesn't say if he changed the filter every change, or every other. On bitog's site they have an older syn3 voa but not a hd360 voa.
 
  #14  
Old 10-02-2009, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by big cahuna
The 1st and 8th samples were the hd360 while the rest were amsoil. I'm thinking the 8th sample, has some residual Amsoil in it as hd360 doesn't use moly in their anti wear package.And he doesn't say if he changed the filter every change, or every other. On bitog's site they have an older syn3 voa but not a hd360 voa.
Your right aabout the residual moly but the amount of moly thats in the Amsoil isnt very much anyway, I wouldnt think that small amount would do any good to amount to anything but I could be wrong.
 
  #15  
Old 10-02-2009, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dynarule
That dont make no sense. We are talking about an oil here in the oil section on this forum. If we were talking and comparing Jap bikes and Harley's then you might make a little sense but we are not.
What I meant was and you failed to understand is that alot of things are hyped that we all still purchase. It,s called advertising.
 
  #16  
Old 10-02-2009, 09:40 PM
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I think some and myself included use syn because the 96 till I did sgt1 and the cams ran at at higher temp than the earlier models Mine ran 240'ish first 1k, now its 200-210. so reg dyno oil would probably be ok now
 
  #17  
Old 10-03-2009, 09:01 AM
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It is funny that a voa on hd360 hasn't been done somewhere. And it wouldn't be hard to do a sample from a unopened bottle and $22 and you'll have one mailed to your door. As far as a uoa, the only one you would be concerned with is one from your bike. To give you a informed condition of your motors wear patterns. To get a uoa that really tells you something, you should run the same brand and weight oil for several changes.You can gauge by the wear metals found how the motors wearing. Switching between brands gives a mixture of different the brands, so telling how well an oil is holding up won't be a true reading.From the uoa's posted there seems to be some contamination and the mileage for the changes varied. the 8th sample was only run 1500 miles, and had wear additives that were not in the 1st sample. Harley's oil looked like it held grade good and the tbn was high, but it wasn't run for a whole duty cycle of 5k miles.Most mc oils have moly in them. Harley doesn't use moly but tends to put high levels of calcium . thats their choice and it seems to work ok. Redine on the other hand, uses the highest moly count you'll find. some over 600ppm. I wouldn't use that in my primary as it might cause some clutch slippage. as much as you read about oil, the more confusing it gets. But there are people that use the most expensive oils and those that use the cheapest oil, and they all seem to get the job done.
 
  #18  
Old 10-03-2009, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by big cahuna
It is funny that a voa on hd360 hasn't been done somewhere. And it wouldn't be hard to do a sample from a unopened bottle and $22 and you'll have one mailed to your door. As far as a uoa, the only one you would be concerned with is one from your bike. To give you a informed condition of your motors wear patterns. To get a uoa that really tells you something, you should run the same brand and weight oil for several changes.You can gauge by the wear metals found how the motors wearing. Switching between brands gives a mixture of different the brands, so telling how well an oil is holding up won't be a true reading.From the uoa's posted there seems to be some contamination and the mileage for the changes varied. the 8th sample was only run 1500 miles, and had wear additives that were not in the 1st sample. Harley's oil looked like it held grade good and the tbn was high, but it wasn't run for a whole duty cycle of 5k miles.Most mc oils have moly in them. Harley doesn't use moly but tends to put high levels of calcium . thats their choice and it seems to work ok. Redine on the other hand, uses the highest moly count you'll find. some over 600ppm. I wouldn't use that in my primary as it might cause some clutch slippage. as much as you read about oil, the more confusing it gets. But there are people that use the most expensive oils and those that use the cheapest oil, and they all seem to get the job done.
Sample 1 was run 1500 miles and sample 8 was run 4755 miles.
 
  #19  
Old 10-03-2009, 04:58 PM
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Dynarule, you are correct I mixed them up. That 1st sample still is kinda early to get a conclusive reading as the motor is still breaking in.I guess in a perfect world you should see a decrease in wear metals for every sample you have tested. low numbers would indicate an oil that is doing its job, where high numbers might give you an early warning that something internal is starting to have excessive wear, of failing. Thats why having a voa might not be that important to have when you start using a brand of oil. That sample is only for that bottles sample. if sent to another lab might get different numbers and another bottle purchased at a different store at a different time may also have different numbers. This is the kind stuff that makes you nutz when your trying to do a simple test.,,
 
  #20  
Old 10-03-2009, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by big cahuna
Dynarule, you are correct I mixed them up. That 1st sample still is kinda early to get a conclusive reading as the motor is still breaking in.I guess in a perfect world you should see a decrease in wear metals for every sample you have tested. low numbers would indicate an oil that is doing its job, where high numbers might give you an early warning that something internal is starting to have excessive wear, of failing. Thats why having a voa might not be that important to have when you start using a brand of oil. That sample is only for that bottles sample. if sent to another lab might get different numbers and another bottle purchased at a different store at a different time may also have different numbers. This is the kind stuff that makes you nutz when your trying to do a simple test.,,
It would be better to have a few UOA's of the same oil after switchting brands but i do believe that a dino oil will do a good job of protecting your engine even in extreme heat, but syn might be able to handle the extereme heat with out changing out as early. I guess the cost difference could be worth the it if your willing to take the chance that syn oil is what it is claimed to be. I myself look at the cost at the time the oil change is due. At my local dealer,a black filter is $10 and dino oil is $4 a qt. Compared to the $10+ a qt for a name brand MC syn oil. I know that many people have stretched the OCI past the factory recomendation with syn oil but I just cant let myself go past 2500K before I do a change, Just old habits I guess.
 


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