Hey guys,

Now an oil change, that's not so bad. You can hang out with some friends or the kids, wait for the oil to drain, have a beer/soda (depending on age and personal choice), and take in the relaxing feeling that your beloved bike is getting revitalized.


What do you like to do while you change the oil -- what music is playing, what's the beverage, time of day, etc.? Do you prefer to do it yourself or take it to a shop? What oil do you prefer (name your bike too)? Have some advice for draining and cleaning up quickly?


If you missed the quick read, you can find it here: https://www.hdforums.com/articles/20...-clean-up.html


Here's some other oil-related discussions: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/tags/oil.html


Thanks!

 

No music, no beverage, time of day is whenever I decide to do it.

Oil changes are sacred and should not be done by anyone other than the rider. It is an important bonding experience with your bike and she will love you for it.

Oil preference is like beer preference. Everyone thinks his choice is the best even though he doesn't know why, nor can he show evidence, but he knows it is superior anyway. The truth? Any high-quality synthetic oil (e.g. Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, etc.) at or near the HD spec is a good choice. It's all good, but prices vary greatly according to brand. Motorcycle-specific oil is not necessary. Hint: The bargain of the year is Mobil 1 15w50 in the 5-qt. jug at Wal-Mart for $23. Any 85w140 synthetic (preferred) or fossil gear oil is a good choice for the tranny, and any inexpensive fossil engine oil 10w40 or higher or ATF Type F will work well in the primary.

 

I thought the article was a bit lame. Most people no how to change oil and clean up the mess afterwards.

The big thing they did not address is how to get the filter off without spilling oil all over the place. I've been using 1 large pan but it don't reach far enough from below the drain plug to the front of the engine where the filter is. Plus as soon as you spin off the filter oil dumps out all around the voltage regulator.

What we really need is good tips on how not to spill oil on the front of the frame.

Anyone?

 

I cut a piece of heavy paper like manilla folder paper, and shove it up under the filter and kind of fold it to where the oil all goes into the drain pan. Works very well for me.

 

They got plenty of threads on here (mostly in the touring section) on how to rig up something so that the oil drains right into a pan and not on your bike. There are allot of good Ideas. (I liked the coke bottle method)

I just changed the oil this monday, as I let it drain out I was mowing the lawn. then I got to thinking it's been awhile since my Deere got an oil change as well. Thats my next free weekend project.

 

No matter how careful I try to be when changing the oil I still manage to splash it all over. I have found the paper funnel under the filter works the best and is cheap. the other thing I do is put the drain pan in a old pizza box to catch what splashes out. Also cheap. As far as oil goes I can't say any one is better as they all will do the job. I hate changing oil so I'll pick one and go the 5k as the book says is ok to do. My bike runs as good as my buddy's and he changes his oil every 2.5k. Harley's aren't fragile so I believe mine will last longer then I will. lol.,,,,

 

I thought the article was pretty lame, too. If someone didn't already know how to do it, that article didn't help much. And the suggestions to block the wheels and NOT heat up the oil first (how ludicrous is that?!) because you might then burn yourself makes you wonder if the article was written by some safety-crat lawyer, rather than a mechanic who knows what he is doing.

 

Article needs a little more detail. I use a quart water bottle cut off as a sleeve over the oil filter to keep it from getting all over the frame while changing. I clean the magnetic plugs of any metal debris, and if there is more than normal attempt to figure out why. Be carefull not to over fill and if you do a syringe is a very hand way to get the overfill out. A little teflon tape on the oil plug when it goes back in and a new rubber rings on each resvoir drain nut go along way to prevent leaks.

 

I wouldn't recommend using teflon tape, best to use TFE paste. Tape can clog if it gets into the crankcase. The paste prevents leaks, makes an easy in and out for the drain nut (like tape does) but won't clog anything.

 

Sorry, but this quote from the article is just WRONG:
"It's not a bad idea to fire up the bike and let it run for a couple minutes before beginning the process. The key word here is to warm the engine, not to make it hot. Warming the oil will get it circulating through the system and make it flow freer. Making the engine hot will increase the risk of burning your skin. If in doubt, let the engine cool before attempting the oil change."

The purpose of running the motor prior to draining the oil isn't to give the oil a warm and comfy feeling. The BIKE (not just the motor) should be run, THAT MEANS RIDDEN, long enough for all the fluids to come up to full operating temperature. The idea is to ensure that particulate matter is suspended in the oil, NOT settled out in the bottom of the case or tank, so that when the fluid is drained, the contaminates come out with the fluid.