A Indy bike shop by me charges almost $15 for a qt of Mobil 1 v twin oil.They'll be waitin a long time before I spend that much for any qt of oil.,,

 

Not here. Vtwin is about $3/qt more. So for the $9 per oil change I'll go with the Vtwin. I have seen a couple UOA's where the Castrol sheared out of grade pretty quickly much like the Mobil1 15w50.

 

For what it's worth, and not to start an arguement, but sometimes I wonder how much of the detail 'ppm' breakdown information contained in various UOA's really matters when it comes to the low RPM, air cooled engines in Harleys...

I know it's fun to compare UOA's for various oils, and argue how one oil has to be better than another, but I wonder how critical some of the UOA information is other than for educational purposes.

As I've mentioned before, the majority of guys that I know that have 100,000+ miles on their original Harley engines are running regular old Mobil 1 synthetic 15W-50. Many guys I know run 20,000+ miles a year, so it's not difficult, and doesn't take that long to reach high mileage marks.

But by looking at various UOA's there are probably many other oils that most would consider 'superior' to Mobil 1 15W-50 for running in air cooled engines, and most of these oils come at a much higher price tag.

I would have to ask if so many bikes can run trouble free for 100,000 miles, 125,000 miles, or more, using an oil that costs less than $5.00 a quart, would it be justified to run an oil that costs twice as much just because it's suppose to be 'superior'?

Some of the guys I know with high mileage bikes run nothing but $2.50 a quart Rotella T 15W-40 dino oil in the extreme heat conditions here in the lower midwest. They think I'm crazy for spending $5.00 a quart for synthetic fluid, as their bikes seem to thrive on the cheap Rotella T.

Like I've said before, I'm sure glad the engines in Harley's are too dumb to read UOA's and other oil related information, as they seem to be perfectly happy no matter what oil they are given to drink..

From real world experience I still believe that just about any quality oil is all our bikes will ever need, and after a certain point the additional cost for so called 'higher quality motorcycle specific oil' far outweighs it's actual benefit.

But to each their own.

 

HA HA HA HA Thats funny!

 

You are probably right with the older bikes. But the newer EFI bikes run really hot with people reporting temperatures in excess of 300*F. They are tuned this lean from the factory to pass the EPA specs. It is common knowledge that dino oils begin to oxidize at about 250*F so in a newer TC88 or TC96 engine synthetic oil is probably a good investment. You can no longer compare the results of guys with carbed bikes or EVO engines as dino is fine with those. As for the M1 15w50...I always thought it was fine until some of the UOA's posted by reputable members here showed it sheared to a 40w very quickly. Will that work if you live in Maine or Minnesota or evern here in Ohio? Probably. Will it work in Arizona or Nevada or Alabama where heat ranges routinely run over 250*F on an air cooled motor? Maybe. But I am not willing to toast a $4000 engine for $10 difference in price. If I had a carbed TC or Evo I would use the Mobil1 15w50 but I don't.

Nobody ever really has an oil failure. What they do have is excessive engine wear that will show up in excessive oil consumption or warped cylinder heads that will cause oil leaks or even some early bearing failures. Look at some of the photos of the heat damage to Police version engines that guys have posted on here where the EFI bikes are run on HD360 dino. The engines still run but the longevity is cut dramatically.

FWIW, my TC88 ran extremely hot (260*F)until I switched it to synthetic and re-mapped with a SERT. Now it runs in the 220*F range. So the money is well spend IMO.

 

The high mileage bikes I reference are mainly newer TC EFI models, not the older EVO and Shovelheads.

As mentioned, opinions vary, but even here in the lower midwest (Kansas, Oklahoma, Missouri, Texas areas where temperature can be extreme in the summer) these 100,000+ mile plus engines don't seem to realize that the lower cost basic oils might be harmful... Bikes don't leak, bearings are fine, no excessive wear, none of the terrible stuff that 'should' be happening.

Mobil 1 15W50 (either the Silver Cap or newer Gold Cap extended mileage version) seems to be the oil of choice with most that I ride with, and I can't see any benefit of upgrading to a 'better quality oil'.

I'm not knocking the higher cost motorcyle specific oils, and maybe some people feel better running them, but I don't think it is necessary. Also, when you think about it, how many casual type riders will never have to worry about a high mileage bike, as many end up selling or trading before they even hit the 50,000 mile mark.

 

100% synthetic 20w50 is the only way to go. i use mobile 1 v twin on my 05 rk and my 07 e/glide. must be formulated to run with wet clutch additives. i buy my oil at auto zone discount chain $9.95 a qt off the shelf and kn oil filter 171C from the same place for $11.00. it has the nut on the end, makes for easy removal

 

I haven't been able to locate a voa on hd 360, but have been told syn3 has about the same additive package. I have thought about the levels that Harley has put in the oil they sell and heres what I think. Sure when compared to other oil brands, the additive numbers are lower, but must be what Harley feels is all that needed to go 5k miles between changes, and give the proper amount of protection .It seems everyone but Harley is worried about oil .While talking to the head wrench at the dealership I go to he said he doesn't see High numbers of catastrophic engine failures with Hd 360. And I'll bet the dealers work on more Harley motors then indy shops. Just shows how scare tactics in advertising can cause fear and uncertainty when used properly.,,

 

You said it all there. Auto dino has worked great for me for many years here in Texas and no i dont have an oil cooler.

 

True, but the Syn3 has a different base stock oil. I don't buy synthetic oil out of fear. But like posted here you can get Vtwin for <$10/qt. I have a 3 year supply of Redline 20w50 that I paid $4/qt for on closeout at AAP. I use what is best/cheapest. AAP closed out all the old formula Havoline 20w50 for $1/qt about 18 months ago...I just missed that one as 2 Harley owners bought all of it 5 minutes before I got there. But if the price is nominal between dino & synthetic I will buy the syn oil every time. It is better oil.