2006 Road King Oil Change
#1
2006 Road King Oil Change
All,
I'm going to change the oil on my bike for the first time myself. I'm reading the manual and it states to use the oil filter tool HD-42311, do you guys use this or something else? Also, can I get a better explanation of the exact location of the drain plug and filler plug?
Rich
I'm going to change the oil on my bike for the first time myself. I'm reading the manual and it states to use the oil filter tool HD-42311, do you guys use this or something else? Also, can I get a better explanation of the exact location of the drain plug and filler plug?
Rich
#2
I went to Harley and picked up a filter wrench ($21) and am confident on the filler plug...just need confirmation on the drain plug. Is it the bolt at the far front left of the engine case?
V/r,
Rich
V/r,
Rich
#3
For those that might have the same questions in the future:
Needed on hand prior to starting:
Oil Filter and oil filter wrench (purchased at Harley for $21)
4 qts. 20W-50 oil (I used Syn3 from Harley, service manual states to use 3.5 qts.)
Allen Head socket/wrench (for the oil drain plug)
O-ring to replace the o-ring on the drain plug
catch can about 3-4 inches tall to fit under the frame while on the kickstand
Locations/Procedure:
On page 7-31 of the 2006 Touring Service Manual, there is a schematic of the Transmission case and oil pan. This will help for identifying the drain plug.
On page 1-9 of the service manual is the step by step for changing your oil.
-Run the bike until warm, this will allow the thicker viscosity 20W-50 to drain properly.
-Locate the oil drain plug. It is on the oil pan which is located at the bottom of the bike almost directly below your seat. You will see two allen head bolts facing the front of the bike. Your oil drain plug is the farthest to the left, if you are sitting on the bike. (the other allen head plug you see next to it and closer to the center is listed as a "pipe plug" in the manual). After removal, replace the o-ring on the drain plug, moisten the new o-ring with oil prior to installation.
-Loosen the oil drain plug all the way out. Oil will drain slowly. At this time, come out from under the bike and remove the Oil fill plug (which also has a dipstick on it). It is located on the right side of the bike (as seated), just below the right passenger foot board. You have twist and pull the plug out (it's not threaded). Once you pull this plug, the oil will really begin to drain. Leave it loose until after you refill the oil.
-Have a beer while your oil drains. Once it has finished, reinstall the drain plug with new o-ring. Manual states tighten to 14-21 ft-lbs.
-Next remove the oil filter located at the bottom of the engine and front of the bike. after removal, ensure you clean any residue that might have remained from the seal off the old filter from around the area that you just removed the filter. Apply oil to the new rubber seal on your new filter and and install. Tighten it by hand "1/2-3/4 turn after the gasket first contacts the filter mount" (from the manual).
-Now add 3.5 qts. of oil at the oil filler(manual specifies 3.5 quarts).
-Complete engine oil level COLD CHECK prior to starting. The manual states this isn't an accurate check, but should be completed prior to starting/riding, after which you will complete the engine oil level hot check. See the manual page 1-9 for these procedures.
-Following the hot check, check for leaks and you're finished.
Rich
Needed on hand prior to starting:
Oil Filter and oil filter wrench (purchased at Harley for $21)
4 qts. 20W-50 oil (I used Syn3 from Harley, service manual states to use 3.5 qts.)
Allen Head socket/wrench (for the oil drain plug)
O-ring to replace the o-ring on the drain plug
catch can about 3-4 inches tall to fit under the frame while on the kickstand
Locations/Procedure:
On page 7-31 of the 2006 Touring Service Manual, there is a schematic of the Transmission case and oil pan. This will help for identifying the drain plug.
On page 1-9 of the service manual is the step by step for changing your oil.
-Run the bike until warm, this will allow the thicker viscosity 20W-50 to drain properly.
-Locate the oil drain plug. It is on the oil pan which is located at the bottom of the bike almost directly below your seat. You will see two allen head bolts facing the front of the bike. Your oil drain plug is the farthest to the left, if you are sitting on the bike. (the other allen head plug you see next to it and closer to the center is listed as a "pipe plug" in the manual). After removal, replace the o-ring on the drain plug, moisten the new o-ring with oil prior to installation.
-Loosen the oil drain plug all the way out. Oil will drain slowly. At this time, come out from under the bike and remove the Oil fill plug (which also has a dipstick on it). It is located on the right side of the bike (as seated), just below the right passenger foot board. You have twist and pull the plug out (it's not threaded). Once you pull this plug, the oil will really begin to drain. Leave it loose until after you refill the oil.
-Have a beer while your oil drains. Once it has finished, reinstall the drain plug with new o-ring. Manual states tighten to 14-21 ft-lbs.
-Next remove the oil filter located at the bottom of the engine and front of the bike. after removal, ensure you clean any residue that might have remained from the seal off the old filter from around the area that you just removed the filter. Apply oil to the new rubber seal on your new filter and and install. Tighten it by hand "1/2-3/4 turn after the gasket first contacts the filter mount" (from the manual).
-Now add 3.5 qts. of oil at the oil filler(manual specifies 3.5 quarts).
-Complete engine oil level COLD CHECK prior to starting. The manual states this isn't an accurate check, but should be completed prior to starting/riding, after which you will complete the engine oil level hot check. See the manual page 1-9 for these procedures.
-Following the hot check, check for leaks and you're finished.
Rich
The following users liked this post:
NHarvey (06-10-2019)
#5
Thanks...I don't like Harley's price for oil either ($10.45/quart). The bike only has 2800 miles on it (I've owned since new), military deployments/operations have limited my riding time. I wanted to change the oil because it hadn't been changed since the 1000 mile service back in August of last year...man did it look nasty.
What do you suggest? I've always used Mobil 1 Full synthetic in my vehicles...
Rich
What do you suggest? I've always used Mobil 1 Full synthetic in my vehicles...
Rich
#6
Valvoline 20W50 motorcycle oil at Advance Auto Parts. $3.88 a quart. Sometimes I use Drag Specialties 20W50 oil,but it is $5.50 a quart at a motorcycle shop.
I use the cap type automotive oil filter wrench. Just turn it enough to loosen the filter. Then take the cap off and remove the filter by hand. Works for me on my Road King Classic! I change my oil all the time. Why pay more?
I use the cap type automotive oil filter wrench. Just turn it enough to loosen the filter. Then take the cap off and remove the filter by hand. Works for me on my Road King Classic! I change my oil all the time. Why pay more?
#7
Mobil makes a V twin oil ... you may have to buy it directly from one of their distributors. Amsoil also makes what some claim to be the best. Here is a couple of links.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...in_20W-50.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...in_20W-50.aspx
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#9
Syn3 is a GroupIII hydrofinished synthetic oil. Not as robust as the GroupIV's like Mobil1 or Amsoil or RP or the GroupV oils like Redline but still considered a synthetic. I remember seeing an analysis where it does have some PAO in it.
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