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Mobil1Vtwin is the official oil for S&amp\\;S. They announced it 2 years ago.

 

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Guess they forgot to mention that all the CVO bikes come with Syn3 from the factory. Mobil1 is factory fill for Corvette, Aston Martin, Mercedes, Porsche.. you know all the crap cars with cheap engines.. AND the idiots at Ferrarri put QS Horsepower full synthetic in their lousy engines too... your friend is a dikhead.........

 

 

This is what happens when people listen to the MoCo service "techs"......
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Slippery oil, who would have ever imagined such a thing....

 

Actually, this is an old myth that seems to never die. When I heard this first in 1998 I called Torrington, who makes bearings, and asked about the "skating" issue. The engineer I spoke with was amused but confessed he had never heard of this before. His retort was that if the oil was too slick for the bearing to spin, it was also too slick to create any wear. Skating cannot occur unless a bearing is subjected to no load, and this never occurs in an internal-combustion engine.

My old RK Evo ran 106k on synthetic oil and the heads were never removed from that bike. It is still running today with >115k at last count.

 

I have to assume you are jokeing.

friction=
saps power
generates heat
increases wear

 

OK, I'll tell you "maybe" what he was told but misunderstood. (Got it?)

Most engine manufactures do not suggest breaking in a new engine with synthetic. You need for the rings and bearings to seat so in many cases the car, airplane, scooter, tractor does Not have synthetic oil from the factory (even though the MFG says Use Synthetic). After 3 to 5 thousand miles on the break-in oil running synthetic is best. Too slick? Hogwash.

 

Wrong

 

Didn't have to look hard for this. it's off the Amsol site.

Breaking in a new engine is the one area that petroleum oil is better for than synthetics. You see, petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine. That is why we recommend you run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the first 500 miles.

Further heat cycling break-in will continue during the multiple heating and cooling cycles from driving your vehicle under varying RPM and engine load conditions and then shutting it down for a long period of time to let it cool completely. The multiple heating and cooling cycles are a extremely important factor in properly breaking in a new engine and are often an overlooked factor in the total break-in process. These heating and cooling cycles achieve what is called stress relieving. Back in the "old days" of engine manufacturing, after casting and before an engine block was machined, it would be set outside for several months to age, during which stress relieving occurred naturally, then the block was machined, which helped to produce a better engine than one that was machined immediately after casting.

 

Also allows your bike to go down the road without falling over.

Sometimes friction is a good thing!