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  #201  
Old 06-28-2010, 05:12 PM
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I have used both but I'm sticking with Mobil 1 Vtwin 20/50 Syn in the crank and Primary.
Mobil 1 75/90 Gear oil in the Transmission
 
  #202  
Old 06-28-2010, 05:46 PM
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Just changed oil.....
Amsoil again.....
 
  #203  
Old 06-28-2010, 06:37 PM
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I'm running Mobil 1 20w/50 full synthetic in all 3 holes . I have had it in for around 3k miles with good performance . I think , though I may go with Red line gear oil in the tranny , the next time .
 
  #204  
Old 07-07-2010, 08:33 AM
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Default Lubrication Questions

The fella I got my 2006 Dyno Wide Glide from can't find his owner's manual, so I have no information about lubricants. I have the following questions:

Q1: Is Mobil 1 synthetic oil appropriate for the crank case.
Q2: How much oil is required for the engine crank case.
Q3: What oil and how much should be used for the transmission.
Q4: What oil and how much should be used for the primary casing.

Thanks,
Bob Nisbet
Supporting The U.S. Army
Redstone Arsenal, Alabama
email:
Robert.Nisbet1@US.Army.Mil
 
  #205  
Old 07-07-2010, 08:55 AM
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The mobil1 20w50 v twin for the motor,same for the primary or non synthetic, gear oil for the tranny 75w90 or 140. Just don't use reg car oil that says energy conserving on that round label. It's bad for the clutch. 2.2 qt for the motor.about 1.5 for the primary. and about 28 oz for tranny. motor should be half way up dip stick when cold. Primary should be just up to clutch basket with dirby cover removed. Any motorcycle oil is fine for motor or primary in the weight you choose for ware you live.
 
  #206  
Old 07-07-2010, 09:10 AM
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Is mobil-1 20w50 v twin the same as auto Mobil-1.
Bob Nisbet
 
  #207  
Old 07-07-2010, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Nisbet
Is mobil-1 20w50 v twin the same as auto Mobil-1.
Bob Nisbet
No. M1 V-Twin is absent certain modifiers that can cause your clutch pak to have a nervous breakdown. M1 V-Twin also has zinc and other stuff in it that HD recommends for your crankcase. Why? I have no idea. But HD recommends it and for $2 dollars more a quart I'm not gonna get a Chemical Engineering degree.



http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.ENGINE.HTML

That is to be used as a funnel for under your oil filter. Careful with capacities. It's a lot easier to add than it is to remove. Start with 2.5 Qts in your crankcase, no more. Then check it after it settles down. If it looks 'okay' drive it until it reachs operating temperature and re-check. Add oil to full level.

Mine is a 2010 but my SM and OM say 1 Qt each in the Primary and Tranny. It also says 3 Qts for the crankcase but that's not the case most of the time. Some years are a little more picky about capacities than others because of baffles, etc.

Easier to add than remove.
 
  #208  
Old 07-07-2010, 09:35 AM
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After an oil change, there is usually about .5qt left in the oil pan. So, usually you only add 2.5qt back in. I'll add 2qt and check the dipstick.
 
  #209  
Old 07-07-2010, 01:01 PM
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2.5 in crank case.......1.0 in primary not 1.5........1.0 in tranny, works every time, trust me.
 
  #210  
Old 07-07-2010, 08:36 PM
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thedonthere I like that look with denim black and no tank badges.
 


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