..one more post on OIL
#203
I'm running Mobil 1 20w/50 full synthetic in all 3 holes . I have had it in for around 3k miles with good performance . I think , though I may go with Red line gear oil in the tranny , the next time .
#204
Lubrication Questions
The fella I got my 2006 Dyno Wide Glide from can't find his owner's manual, so I have no information about lubricants. I have the following questions:
Q1: Is Mobil 1 synthetic oil appropriate for the crank case.
Q2: How much oil is required for the engine crank case.
Q3: What oil and how much should be used for the transmission.
Q4: What oil and how much should be used for the primary casing.
Thanks,
Bob Nisbet
Supporting The U.S. Army
Redstone Arsenal, Alabama
email:
Robert.Nisbet1@US.Army.Mil
Q1: Is Mobil 1 synthetic oil appropriate for the crank case.
Q2: How much oil is required for the engine crank case.
Q3: What oil and how much should be used for the transmission.
Q4: What oil and how much should be used for the primary casing.
Thanks,
Bob Nisbet
Supporting The U.S. Army
Redstone Arsenal, Alabama
email:
Robert.Nisbet1@US.Army.Mil
#205
The mobil1 20w50 v twin for the motor,same for the primary or non synthetic, gear oil for the tranny 75w90 or 140. Just don't use reg car oil that says energy conserving on that round label. It's bad for the clutch. 2.2 qt for the motor.about 1.5 for the primary. and about 28 oz for tranny. motor should be half way up dip stick when cold. Primary should be just up to clutch basket with dirby cover removed. Any motorcycle oil is fine for motor or primary in the weight you choose for ware you live.
#207
No. M1 V-Twin is absent certain modifiers that can cause your clutch pak to have a nervous breakdown. M1 V-Twin also has zinc and other stuff in it that HD recommends for your crankcase. Why? I have no idea. But HD recommends it and for $2 dollars more a quart I'm not gonna get a Chemical Engineering degree.
http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.ENGINE.HTML
That is to be used as a funnel for under your oil filter. Careful with capacities. It's a lot easier to add than it is to remove. Start with 2.5 Qts in your crankcase, no more. Then check it after it settles down. If it looks 'okay' drive it until it reachs operating temperature and re-check. Add oil to full level.
Mine is a 2010 but my SM and OM say 1 Qt each in the Primary and Tranny. It also says 3 Qts for the crankcase but that's not the case most of the time. Some years are a little more picky about capacities than others because of baffles, etc.
Easier to add than remove.
http://www.dudeworld.com.au/HOWTO.ENGINE.HTML
That is to be used as a funnel for under your oil filter. Careful with capacities. It's a lot easier to add than it is to remove. Start with 2.5 Qts in your crankcase, no more. Then check it after it settles down. If it looks 'okay' drive it until it reachs operating temperature and re-check. Add oil to full level.
Mine is a 2010 but my SM and OM say 1 Qt each in the Primary and Tranny. It also says 3 Qts for the crankcase but that's not the case most of the time. Some years are a little more picky about capacities than others because of baffles, etc.
Easier to add than remove.