man my 07 bob shifts smooth now, that valvoline dinos pretty good stuff, the last service was done at the stealer and they had underfilled my tranny by about 9oz
it took 32 oz exactly
now on to the primary, it doesnt hurt to split this up over a couple of days does it?, anyways its dark here so itll have to wait

thanks for all the help and advice,
now after i pull the primary drain plug and pull off the derby cover what should i expect, is the fill hole for the primary behind the derby cover?
is the big o ring for the derby because its a wet system so as soon as i pull off the derby is it going to be a mess?
let me know what to expext, i'm sure i'll have other questions on this one because its the one i understand the least probably why i saved it for last
freebyrd

 

You should consider getting a service manual; it's very helpful. This video will help with the primary service. Not your year/model, but good info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYdNKlxvW6s

 

i would love a service manual but a bareley had enough for parts and fluids for this project and i don't have an extra fifty bux lying around so i really appreciate everyones help here, as soon as i can afford one i'll be the guy digging through the pages with answers for the newbs
but please don't think i'm being a pain or anything, not trying to be
freebyrd

 

On my 07 Wide Glide, the fill hole is the derby cover area. There's no special fill hole with a dip stick as is the case with engine oil, and tranny fluid. Some models have a primary chain inspection cover, which most people use to dump in their fluid.

It shouldn't be a mess. To be sure, do not take off the derby cover until the fluid is at least mostly drained (it only takes a minute or two for the bulk of the fluid to drain).

Once you're finished with your clutch pack adjustment and are ready to put the fluid back in (hopefully you remembered to put the drain plug back in), the fluid level does not rise enough to begin leaking throught he derby cover hole -- at least that's the case with my 07 Wide Glide.

You can do this all on the jiffy stand -- your bike does not need to be upright.

I know you can't afford it right now, but as soon as possible, you should get the service manual. You'd best pick that up before you put another piece of $50 chrome on your bike.

Here are a couple videos that really help you visualize what to expect:
Primary/Clutch Part 1

Primary/Clutch Part 2

Click here to see other videos by this same dude. The vids not perfect, but are a good reference.

 

oh man i didn't know you had to adjust the clutch plates when you changed the primary oil, now i'm skeered[8D] you know its rainy and windy and i have to do this under a carport with a lot of wind and dust whipping around today probably not the best environment to expose your harleys innards to,
maybe i'll just wait til after work tomorrow and study on this for a while, it looked like dude was using a three in oneoil on the clutch cable no? something light weight called for to drip all the way down the cable i would think, boy theres a lot to learn on these bikes, worse than owning a porshe or jaguar, good thing its so damn fun to ride,
freebyrd

 

On your primary, use the HD formula+ oil. It will take 1 quart. The derby cover screws take a T-27 torx bit to remove (note a T-25 will strip them)and should be re-torqued to 100 INCH LBS (not foot pounds) Put a piece of tape by the top hole in the cover so you can put the cover back on in the same orientation as it came off. You should be able to re-use the rubber gasket on the cover as long as you re-torque the screws. First snug the screws then use a star sequence to torque strating with the top one first. On the drain bolt if the o-ring is not torn or squashed to bad you can re-use it ( I use white loctite or teflon tape on the drain bolt threads to seal them well). Torque to 50 INCH LBS For the clutch adjustment go to the DIY threads and look for the clutch adjustment thread. ( it should be on the second page of threads)

If you need any other help or have questions PM me. I have the 06 dyna service manual. Also, check your owners manual as it has some info on the primary there as well.

 

brother i just had to do it on feel don't own a torque wrench but everything came out all right

 

You can replace those T27 torx screws with stainless 3/4" long coarse #20 allen head machine screws from your hardware store for about $2. Much easier. BTW, I have used my rubber cover gasket about 4 or 5 times before it gets too mashed down to seal.