K&P Engineering

 

Just make damn sure your choice of filters include an anti-drain back system along with an automatic by-pass . Dry starts is where most of your engine wear occurs !

 

How long do you think an engine has to sit before it actually makes a dry start? Does an evo motor really need a anti drain back valve? The bypass what put in a filter for what reason?
Enlighten me..

 

Maybe on a wet sumped engine. However I do agree on the bypass valve. Because every brain back valve filter out there has too small of a micron rating, along with a system designed for low psi and high flow to push it through. At least oil will still circulate, unfiltered, but there will be oil getting to where it needs to go.

 

Really confused now. Seeing how none of my questions were answered. Has anyone really took the time to tear open a used filter or just watched the videos on utube tearing apart new ones? I just gotta ask this one. On a dry sump motor as you say what sends the oil to the pump? Here let me if i can get you a pic of a fully synthetic media filter that is good for 2xoem specs on road machines with the exception of off road.

 

As a rule, I cut open every filter casing at every oil change; only takes a few seconds to get a good look at your media. I've been VERY impressed by the Purolator that was discontinued (WHY???), and disconcerted by the Hi-Flow filters made in 'Nam - not because of the filter itself, but because of RUST on the inside of the housing, which tells me that they are probably stored in the direct wet climate they have. I'm talking about a 3" deeply rusted oval on the inside, which my oil flowed thru.
BTW, there is a scavenge side of your oil pump that picks up the sump oil, as I understand from what I read.

 

Speaking of nam and what products are made there the last time I looked so were K&N Air Filters.

 

I never heard of dry starts until around the late 70's when all the oil additive products came out, and got even worse thru the 80's.
Every engine I've ever torn down was wet as all gitout inside. Well, except for combustion chambers.

 

I'm happy with the PC Racing Flo Aluminum Reusable Oil Filter, built in cooling fins, stainless mesh screen. Running it on my 98 Electra Glide.

 

Even a very bad oil filter will pass. It will allow metal fibers thru and wear your engine out at a rapid rate. However, your warranty will be long gone before you are huffing oil past the rings, but your odometer will tell you that your Harely was poorly made because it wore out so fast. Look at the filter box it should tell you some place on it what kind of micro the paper in the filter is the smaller the number the less metal gets thru until to get to a plastic sheet and nothing gets thru including the oil then your warranty may be null and void in a hurry. You have to find somewhere inbetween oil flow and metal flow. There is always metal, it is called normal wear, why most filters have a tiny magnet in them.