ok, thanks next oil change will be trying the Mobil 1. What are you using in the primary ?

 

madcritter, mine requires it be on the jiffy stand to check the oil. Yep, 4 qts with a filter is what the book says but that allows that you are leaving a 1/2 qt or so in the passages....so, if you purge out the all of the old oil, it'll take roughly 4 & 1/2 qts with a filter change.

I generally leave mine about two thirds of the way up from the add line...seems to want to come out of the air box if it's close to full...of course, they say check it with the engine hot cause the oil expands a little...on my stick it has the words Harley-Davidson and I've found my sweet spot is smack dab in the middlebetween the wordswhen cold.

 

Harley's old primary fluid was on the order of 10w40 motor oil...you can use that or some people use Rotella 15w40, some use synthetic 10w40 or 20w50 and some use Automatic Transmission Fluid - that's what I'm trying this go around - Type F to be specific. You just don't want anything with a friction modifier in it...such as a 5 or 10w30 energy conserving type oil.

 

I use Valvoline 20W50 in the warmer months on my 94 Electra Glide. Mainly because there is a NAPA close by that sells it and I can pick up a wix filter there. I currently run Rotella 15W40 diesel since it is 20 degrees outside. I put over 7000 miles on the bike this year with the Valvoline and had no issues. Then again, I think people put too much thought into oil. I have run cars over 200,000 miles on dino and others on synthetic. I think key is keeping up on maintenance. It would be really difficult for somebody to convince me one brand is better over another. I have yet to see one shred of real evidence that a properly maintained engine has failed because somebody put a "cheap" brand of oil in it.

 

When you install the new engine oil, put in 1/2 quart less than what the book calls for. Warm up the engine then recheck the oil level and add as needed. Many of the book quantities are for a factory dry engine and don't account for the approximately 1/2 quart thats left in the system when you do a change.

 

I always check it cold then hot after the change so far both have been below the full mark. When I change next time it will be to the Mobil so will be doing a purge.
Did about 60 miles today ran good and quite with the Val dino and mobil 1 75W90. It had a whine in 3rd and 4th before the tranny change but much quiter now.

 

Well I ended up going with Amsol in my 92 bike got about 1000 miles on the new oil and just love it. bikes quiter gears are quiter and seems to be running cooler.

 

Man if i wasn't confused before on changing out my oil i sure am now lol.harley synt in bike now. my wal-mart doesn't sell mobil 1 synt 20-50 any more that was going to be my next change only because i was told i didn't have to flush out the engin block so thats out i'm in a bad place for verioty of oil's anybody help me out so i don't have to flush anything out. In ? 20/50 mobil 1 synt maybe close to harley's synt.what to do IS THIER SOMETHING ELSE I COULD USE WITH OUT HAVEING TO FLUSH OUT MY ENGIN BLOCK .2006 rk classic p.s i'm on a low bUdget ya you know the song .thaNK YOU..

 

You do not have to flush anything out no matter what you switch to.

I know you said you were on a budget. Amsoil or Redline are both cheaper than SYN 3.

 

No matter what you choose to use you do not have to flush anything. If your WalMart sells Mobil 1 15w-50 car oil, use it.