Changing your oil
#12
RE: Changing your oil
I have wondered about trying the following - drain oil and then remove plug wires and crank engine for a while - would this pump the old oil into the tank and then drain out through the open drain hole? Would cranking the bike with the plug wires disconnected cause any problems? I am wondering about the EFI stuff????
I use to actually start my old Yamaha VStar after draining the oil and let it run for 3-5 seconds. Seemed to pump out a little more old oil and I don't think this hurt the engine at all - there is still enough oil on all of the moving parts to allow the engine to run for a few seconds. I am not sure about this which is why I am asking if anybody else has done this
I use to actually start my old Yamaha VStar after draining the oil and let it run for 3-5 seconds. Seemed to pump out a little more old oil and I don't think this hurt the engine at all - there is still enough oil on all of the moving parts to allow the engine to run for a few seconds. I am not sure about this which is why I am asking if anybody else has done this
#13
RE: Changing your oil
ORIGINAL: sidewinder
I got the scavenger system for Christmas but have not used it yet. Probably overkill but I intend on riding this bike a LONG time and can't see leaving dirty oil in the system while adding new clean oil. For those who say it does not matter, where do you draw the line? Why not just change 1/2 your oil? I don't like the idea of diluting my new oil with used oil. It was recommended to me by a wrench on these forums. If anything it makes me and the bike feel good. Ride safe.
ORIGINAL: mickeymaxharley
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you change your oil?
My riding buddy says he drains his then adds 2 quarts and drains it again. Then he refills and goes riding.
I was looking into the Scavenger type of oil changer. What do you think?
http://roguechopper.com
This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you change your oil?
My riding buddy says he drains his then adds 2 quarts and drains it again. Then he refills and goes riding.
I was looking into the Scavenger type of oil changer. What do you think?
http://roguechopper.com
But, anyway, I pumped out somewhere between 24 to 32 ounces (a graduated container is a must), then I visibly saw the oil turn clean, and also could HEAR the difference. The bike instantly smoothed out. wow! and the Syn3 that USED to be in there really wasn't that old. The M1 VTwin in there now is clean ontop of clean! It's nice peace of mind I guess for maybe 5 minutes extra work (15 for me.. the amatuer clutz wrench) Man oh man though.. was that old oil lookin' like black tar in the oil pan.. Shoooo. And it had maybe 2000 real miles on it.
#14
RE: Changing your oil
Great little tool aint it? Combine synthetic oil, with scavenger and short oil change intervals and you WILL have an engine that runs as good as new when it hits the 100k mark. I know some people think Im **** on the oil change bit, but results show why when you have a high miliage beast. Especially if you keep your bike for the long haul and dont sell or trade every few years.
We have a gentleman with a 00' RK thats an honest to god daily driver(he rides through rain,snow 365 a year)thats closing in on the 200k mark. The bike looks like it went through hell and back from the outside(and it has), showing multiple scars from a few dumps over the years, ripped seat,chipped/scratched dented tins, serious abuse. The engine still runs like it did the day he bought it. All we've ever done for the engine are tensioners for the cams, some odds and ends gaskets, plugs and wires, cam bearings(which we did for precuation and oil changes. When we open up the cam chest, the engine looks brand new, no real visible signs of wear, compression and leak down test amazingly are still within factory spec. Another 100k isnt out of the question before needing a rebuild.
We have a gentleman with a 00' RK thats an honest to god daily driver(he rides through rain,snow 365 a year)thats closing in on the 200k mark. The bike looks like it went through hell and back from the outside(and it has), showing multiple scars from a few dumps over the years, ripped seat,chipped/scratched dented tins, serious abuse. The engine still runs like it did the day he bought it. All we've ever done for the engine are tensioners for the cams, some odds and ends gaskets, plugs and wires, cam bearings(which we did for precuation and oil changes. When we open up the cam chest, the engine looks brand new, no real visible signs of wear, compression and leak down test amazingly are still within factory spec. Another 100k isnt out of the question before needing a rebuild.
#15
RE: Changing your oil
ORIGINAL: vernh59
Well after I watched that video, I sit corrected. I like the way it "pumps" out the old oil. I'm sold, thanks dudes now I have to but something else. Is it chrome?
Well after I watched that video, I sit corrected. I like the way it "pumps" out the old oil. I'm sold, thanks dudes now I have to but something else. Is it chrome?
Holy cow.. pushing 200,000 miles and going for another 100k?!?! That's like TOYOTA miles. That's impressive!
#16
RE: Changing your oil
Despite a few easily fixable weak links the Twin Cam is a robustly built engine. If taken care of they can go a very long time. He is scheduled to come in next week, I'm going to try and snap a few picks of the bike. It looks like it belongs on a rerun of "The Roadwarrior".
#17
RE: Changing your oil
I change my oil with a new filter and disconnect the return line and run the engine like the scavenger does in the vid. In the TC engines ,the oil goes from the oil tank to the pump, to the filter to the engine to the crankcase to the scaveng sump and back to the oil tank.
Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.
Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.
Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.
Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.
#18
RE: Changing your oil
In the car repair biz we have been doing transmission services with the same principle. I am old school though and don't want some aftermarket parts attached to my engine oiling system. I don't think it is necessary to install a scavenger system if you change your oil often enough. I am religious about every 2000 miles. I have 5000 miles on the fatboy and have had 3 oil and filter changes and will change it again when i take her out of storage.
#19
RE: Changing your oil
ORIGINAL: peppi
I change my oil with a new filter and disconnect the return line and run the engine like the scavenger does in the vid. In the TC engines ,the oil goes from the oil tank to the pump, to the filter to the engine to the crankcase to the scaveng sump and back to the oil tank.
Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.
Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.
I change my oil with a new filter and disconnect the return line and run the engine like the scavenger does in the vid. In the TC engines ,the oil goes from the oil tank to the pump, to the filter to the engine to the crankcase to the scaveng sump and back to the oil tank.
Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.
Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.
#20
RE: Changing your oil
ORIGINAL: peppi
I change my oil with a new filter and disconnect the return line and run the engine like the scavenger does in the vid. In the TC engines ,the oil goes from the oil tank to the pump, to the filter to the engine to the crankcase to the scaveng sump and back to the oil tank.
Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.
Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.
I change my oil with a new filter and disconnect the return line and run the engine like the scavenger does in the vid. In the TC engines ,the oil goes from the oil tank to the pump, to the filter to the engine to the crankcase to the scaveng sump and back to the oil tank.
Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.
Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.
And if your making a mess using the scavenger, then you need to let someone else do that oil change for you! Ive never spilled a single drop of oil since using the product. Honestly oil changes are very straightforward with it.