Well after I watched that video, I sit corrected. I like the way it "pumps" out the old oil. I'm sold, thanks dudes now I have to but something else. Is it chrome?

 

I have wondered about trying the following - drain oil and then remove plug wires and crank engine for a while - would this pump the old oil into the tank and then drain out through the open drain hole? Would cranking the bike with the plug wires disconnected cause any problems? I am wondering about the EFI stuff????

I use to actually start my old Yamaha VStar after draining the oil and let it run for 3-5 seconds. Seemed to pump out a little more old oil and I don't think this hurt the engine at all - there is still enough oil on all of the moving parts to allow the engine to run for a few seconds. I am not sure about this which is why I am asking if anybody else has done this

 

I did it this weekend.. 1st time I did my own oil change (on this bike), and 1st time with the scavenger. One thing... Make sure the stupid hose is over the lip on the return line good and doesn't pop off.. I managed to cover the side of the bike and me and the floor in old oil before I could shut it off.. "Extremely pissed" wasn't the word, but it's close. It was not one of numb-nut here's finer moments. hehe

But, anyway, I pumped out somewhere between 24 to 32 ounces (a graduated container is a must), then I visibly saw the oil turn clean, and also could HEAR the difference. The bike instantly smoothed out. wow! and the Syn3 that USED to be in there really wasn't that old. The M1 VTwin in there now is clean ontop of clean! It's nice peace of mind I guess for maybe 5 minutes extra work (15 for me.. the amatuer clutz wrench) Man oh man though.. was that old oil lookin' like black tar in the oil pan.. Shoooo. And it had maybe 2000 real miles on it.

 

Great little tool aint it? Combine synthetic oil, with scavenger and short oil change intervals and you WILL have an engine that runs as good as new when it hits the 100k mark. I know some people think Im **** on the oil change bit, but results show why when you have a high miliage beast. Especially if you keep your bike for the long haul and dont sell or trade every few years.

We have a gentleman with a 00' RK thats an honest to god daily driver(he rides through rain,snow 365 a year)thats closing in on the 200k mark. The bike looks like it went through hell and back from the outside(and it has), showing multiple scars from a few dumps over the years, ripped seat,chipped/scratched dented tins, serious abuse. The engine still runs like it did the day he bought it. All we've ever done for the engine are tensioners for the cams, some odds and ends gaskets, plugs and wires, cam bearings(which we did for precuation and oil changes. When we open up the cam chest, the engine looks brand new, no real visible signs of wear, compression and leak down test amazingly are still within factory spec. Another 100k isnt out of the question before needing a rebuild.

 

It's not chrome but it is billet. hehehe However, it doesn't stay on the bike.. Swap for a new chrome filter each change. hehehehehehe


Holy cow.. pushing 200,000 miles and going for another 100k?!?! That's like TOYOTA miles. That's impressive!

 

Despite a few easily fixable weak links the Twin Cam is a robustly built engine. If taken care of they can go a very long time. He is scheduled to come in next week, I'm going to try and snap a few picks of the bike. It looks like it belongs on a rerun of "The Roadwarrior".

 

I change my oil with a new filter and disconnect the return line and run the engine like the scavenger does in the vid. In the TC engines ,the oil goes from the oil tank to the pump, to the filter to the engine to the crankcase to the scaveng sump and back to the oil tank.

Where's the need for the puck in any event. You pump clean oil into the new filter and just should be concerned about the residual oil in the galleries and other parts that are after the filter anyhow. It all pumps out when you start it with the return line in a pan. Can't see where the puck helps you out here, just more mess to clean up and more expense that isn't beneficial.

Different story in the evo engines where it is pretty much the reverse in the oiling system.

 

In the car repair biz we have been doing transmission services with the same principle. I am old school though and don't want some aftermarket parts attached to my engine oiling system. I don't think it is necessary to install a scavenger system if you change your oil often enough. I am religious about every 2000 miles. I have 5000 miles on the fatboy and have had 3 oil and filter changes and will change it again when i take her out of storage.

 

Is this true? If so there is NO need for the puck in my 88B TC? Then I paid big bucks for a plastic tube. (actually my son did as a xmas gift) If accurate the fact that the new filter takes in new oil will help with less to have to top off since the filter will be full. Can someone confirm this please. I will not use the puck if it is not needed. Makes the job one step fewer and cleaner.

 

Yeah, the problem is, that your contaminating that new oil filter with the old oil passing through it. The majority of the leftover oil in the engine sits in the camchest and crank sump which will pass through the oil filter. The "puck" that the scavenger uses just acts as a bypass valve that you use in place of an oil filter to flush out all the old oil. Once the old oil is flushed out, you take the bypass puck off and put your new oil filter back on. The idea of the puck is to 100% flush out all the old oil before installing a new filter back in its place. Real simple. Great for both XL's and TC's. EVO's big twins use a slighly different arrangement.

And if your making a mess using the scavenger, then you need to let someone else do that oil change for you! Ive never spilled a single drop of oil since using the product. Honestly oil changes are very straightforward with it.