is the harbor freight wheel chock any good?
#31
02-27-2018, 01:58 PM
Club Member
Harbor Freight sells those crap tools made by Pittsburgh..they really are junk and you’d never see a professional mechanic use them because they won’t hold up and I know a lot of guys use the chocks made from the same company..a good chock doesn’t need all the straps that most guys are using..I think most are over compensating for this weak product..
I would never trust my V8 in one and I’ve never trailer my Limited..to much invested for me to cheap out.. but if you feel it works for you..good luck!!
I would never trust my V8 in one and I’ve never trailer my Limited..to much invested for me to cheap out.. but if you feel it works for you..good luck!!
Anyone that doesn't strap a bike down and relies only on the chock is a dumbass. I've only trailer edmy bikes maybe 4 times in the past 30 years, but I always use twice the amount of straps that are actually needed. Primary and back up. It is just piece of mind when hauling *** down the road at 80mph if something were to go wrong.
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GalvTexGuy (02-27-2018)
#32
03-01-2018, 04:20 PM
Cruiser
Ive got a Wheeldock for parking in the garage (saves space having the limited upright), and it goes on the trailer if the bike has to be hauled somewhere. I also have a Condor on the trailer for the wifes Heritage. I use the grey HF chock on my HF lift WITH straps always, whether changing oil or parking my softail on the lift to conserve space.
All work equally well when strapped, but I only trust the wheeldock unstrapped for parking the Limited in the garage. Its just heavier construction. Well worth the money, and you dont have to rock the bike up and back to come out of the chock.
All work equally well when strapped, but I only trust the wheeldock unstrapped for parking the Limited in the garage. Its just heavier construction. Well worth the money, and you dont have to rock the bike up and back to come out of the chock.
#33
03-09-2018, 04:24 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
#35
03-09-2018, 06:16 PM
Road Warrior
Condor makes a quick attach bracket you can bolt to the floor in your trailer if I remember right the bracket is only like $20 then you can remove it easily with out tools, I take mine out all the time and use it in the garage for servicing or just polishing things up on the bike! they are very stable without being bolted down! holds my electra glide up no problem even with a person sitting on it with feet on pegs! Best money I ever spent other than my lift table!
#36
03-09-2018, 07:22 PM
Stage III
"Borrowed" another forum.
For those of you who trailer from time to time this is a quick and easy solution for tying down a bike without compressing the front forks. Compressing the front end may make a bike feel solid on a trailer, but it’s very bad for fork springs and seals.
To make a block for trailering measure the width of your frame rails and add about 4-6 inches to that length. Cut 3 pieces of lumber into those lengths, nail or screw your pieces together and you should be set.
When you trailer the bike, roll the bike onto the trailer and stand it upright. Hold the front brake lever and pull back on the bars which will unload the front forks and raise the front of the bike a bit. As you do this, have someone else slide the block under the frame rails slightly forward of the center of the frame. When you let go of the brake and the bike rests down it should sit firmly on that block with 2-3 inches of extra block hanging out to each side. Get off the bike and strap the front and back ends of the bike down like you normally would. Strapping the front from the forks/triple trees and the rear from the passenger peg mounts works well for me. When you strap everything down tight it compresses on the block instead of compressing the forks. The bike should be rock solid without compressing the front end at all – this does not compress the forks and actually leaves them slightly extended.
Other things to consider when making this block:
My bike rests fine on 3 2x’s stacked, but different bikes/shocks/springs make for different frame heights so you may have to adjust from three 2x’s to two 2x’s plus a piece of plywood filler to get your height just right – measure and find what works well for your bike. You want your block a little taller than the frame sits when level so that you have to actually “lift” the front end by locking the front brake to get the block under the bike. This ensures you’re not compressing the front end at all when strapping down.
Also, frame rail width is dependent on your bike, I don’t want to specify just 1300 or 1800 or just VTX – measure your frame rail width and decide how much extra you feel comfortable with hanging out of each side from under the frame rails. I always recommend at least 2-3 inches on each side just to be safe
For those of you who trailer from time to time this is a quick and easy solution for tying down a bike without compressing the front forks. Compressing the front end may make a bike feel solid on a trailer, but it’s very bad for fork springs and seals.
To make a block for trailering measure the width of your frame rails and add about 4-6 inches to that length. Cut 3 pieces of lumber into those lengths, nail or screw your pieces together and you should be set.When you trailer the bike, roll the bike onto the trailer and stand it upright. Hold the front brake lever and pull back on the bars which will unload the front forks and raise the front of the bike a bit. As you do this, have someone else slide the block under the frame rails slightly forward of the center of the frame. When you let go of the brake and the bike rests down it should sit firmly on that block with 2-3 inches of extra block hanging out to each side. Get off the bike and strap the front and back ends of the bike down like you normally would. Strapping the front from the forks/triple trees and the rear from the passenger peg mounts works well for me. When you strap everything down tight it compresses on the block instead of compressing the forks. The bike should be rock solid without compressing the front end at all – this does not compress the forks and actually leaves them slightly extended.
Other things to consider when making this block:
My bike rests fine on 3 2x’s stacked, but different bikes/shocks/springs make for different frame heights so you may have to adjust from three 2x’s to two 2x’s plus a piece of plywood filler to get your height just right – measure and find what works well for your bike. You want your block a little taller than the frame sits when level so that you have to actually “lift” the front end by locking the front brake to get the block under the bike. This ensures you’re not compressing the front end at all when strapping down.
Also, frame rail width is dependent on your bike, I don’t want to specify just 1300 or 1800 or just VTX – measure your frame rail width and decide how much extra you feel comfortable with hanging out of each side from under the frame rails. I always recommend at least 2-3 inches on each side just to be safe
The following 2 users liked this post by BulldogpartsBowling:
04ctd (03-09-2018),
bigrobtemp (03-09-2018)
#37
03-09-2018, 10:01 PM
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