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Upgrading SE 131 kit

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  #11  
Old 08-23-2024, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by oldman131
I seen these cams also but I don't know if they're dropping cams with my Screaming Eagle valves Springs I've been talking to Harley shops all over I know Andrews 554 and 837 B cams can be just set in don't want to open up the top end yet
The cam is designed around the CNC heads on the 131” crate. Works with the stock springs.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https:/...WsTJ33kwY0e7nr
 
  #12  
Old 08-24-2024, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigt001
TTS 250 cam with the Khrome Werks exhaust with louvered baffles work very well.
https://www.jbcycles.net/dyno-runs I think I'm still leaning towards the 837b
 
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2024, 03:41 PM
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Max-Cell Cams just plain work, they are not as readily available as others but perform very well.
 
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2024, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NorthWestern
Check out the CR512, and the CR515 as well.

I really like the looks of that TTS250 sheet, I keep coming across it. I need to check and see if they are at home in a 10.8:1 big bore.
It all depends on what your 10.8 : 1 really is. The TTS 250 is a drop in cam for any of the SE stage III and up kits. The lower the compression the lower the numbers are going to be, same goes with displacement as the size decreases the HP number will drop a little. A factory 131 with no changes and the TTS 250 typically comes in at 150 ish TQ and 148 ish HP. Now with the correct exhaust, air cleaner and tuning we've seen as high as 165 TQ and 160 HP on them. The big deal with the 250 is how high and broad the Torque curve is, as it typically cross 140 ft lbs ~ 2450 RPM and stays above it until 6000! Yes, its much lower lift that others are and there is no valvetrain noise with it. Very few if any match the average TQ of this cam, but others will give up torque to gain more HP at higher RPM's. The normal rider runs the HD engine between 1750 - 4500 RPM over 95% of the time they are riding. If your a drag racer other cams may suit you better.
 
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2024, 07:38 PM
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Thank you Steve!
 
  #16  
Old 08-24-2024, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Cole
It all depends on what your 10.8 : 1 really is. The TTS 250 is a drop in cam for any of the SE stage III and up kits. The lower the compression the lower the numbers are going to be, same goes with displacement as the size decreases the HP number will drop a little. A factory 131 with no changes and the TTS 250 typically comes in at 150 ish TQ and 148 ish HP. Now with the correct exhaust, air cleaner and tuning we've seen as high as 165 TQ and 160 HP on them. The big deal with the 250 is how high and broad the Torque curve is, as it typically cross 140 ft lbs ~ 2450 RPM and stays above it until 6000! Yes, its much lower lift that others are and there is no valvetrain noise with it. Very few if any match the average TQ of this cam, but others will give up torque to gain more HP at higher RPM's. The normal rider runs the HD engine between 1750 - 4500 RPM over 95% of the time they are riding. If your a drag racer other cams may suit you better.
I really do appreciate your input Steve and I like the valve train noise being a little quieter I did hear that about the other cams I'm assuming a lot easier on everything also . That sounds like a cam that I could build off of instead of throw good money away in 2 years. What exhaust would you consider for that build a lot of Builders are telling me Chrome Works two and a two three step header I have always ran D&D but the older I get less noise I really want when I'm cruising on the highway !!
but we all know it really comes down to the numbers
 
  #17  
Old 08-25-2024, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by oldman131
I really do appreciate your input Steve and I like the valve train noise being a little quieter I did hear that about the other cams I'm assuming a lot easier on everything also . That sounds like a cam that I could build off of instead of throw good money away in 2 years. What exhaust would you consider for that build a lot of Builders are telling me Chrome Works two and a two three step header I have always ran D&D but the older I get less noise I really want when I'm cruising on the highway !!
but we all know it really comes down to the numbers
All depends on what your chasing. I cannot handle the D&D or Thunderheader for a cruising bike, but if your chasing the bigger HP numbers, they flat work. I will turn 70 this coming year and I like to go for nice rides in the mountains or up the coast, So I'm willing to give up some HP for no more ear plugs to be able to enjoy a nice long ride. If your in the same boat, Khrome Works or Fullsac for a replacement header that reuses the stock heat shields and then for mufflers Khrome Works with the non louvered baffle or CVO mufflers re-cored with Fullsac 2" baffles works well for me. Sure I give up a little HP above 5000 RPM but I can take a nice long ride and enjoy the ride.
 
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  #18  
Old 09-01-2024, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve Cole
All depends on what your chasing. I cannot handle the D&D or Thunderheader for a cruising bike, but if your chasing the bigger HP numbers, they flat work. I will turn 70 this coming year and I like to go for nice rides in the mountains or up the coast, So I'm willing to give up some HP for no more ear plugs to be able to enjoy a nice long ride. If your in the same boat, Khrome Works or Fullsac for a replacement header that reuses the stock heat shields and then for mufflers Khrome Works with the non louvered baffle or CVO mufflers re-cored with Fullsac 2" baffles works well for me. Sure I give up a little HP above 5000 RPM but I can take a nice long ride and enjoy the ride.
Steve, I assume you are talking about the Performance inserts with the tongue? Are you raising the tongue and if so, how much? I ran them in a Dominator 2-2 with a stage 2 114, Worked very well with the tongue raised 1". Sound was not bad and tuned great.
 
  #19  
Old 09-03-2024, 02:30 PM
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Yes, on the Khrome Works baffle with the tongue. yes we change the position but I could not tell you by how much as we move the position then test on the dyno, adjust again and dyno again until we find the spot that works best for the combination being tested.
 
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